Rear PS Wheel Locked
#1
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Hoping this is a d'oh moment, but can't figure out what the issue might be.
Symptom - My rear DS rotates A-OK (car is up on jack stands).
However, my rear PS wheel doesn't rotate at all. Well, if I try to rotate CW or CCW, I get a very small bit of movement each way, but I mean small.
The only thing I've done near the tranny is replace the pinch bolt. Could I have screwed something up in doing that? Other than needing to jimmy the shaft back from the front (and I only moved it a very small amount), I didn't need to do anything else.
(and I don't think it's a Parking Brake issue, as mine is still non-op.)
Symptom - My rear DS rotates A-OK (car is up on jack stands).
However, my rear PS wheel doesn't rotate at all. Well, if I try to rotate CW or CCW, I get a very small bit of movement each way, but I mean small.
The only thing I've done near the tranny is replace the pinch bolt. Could I have screwed something up in doing that? Other than needing to jimmy the shaft back from the front (and I only moved it a very small amount), I didn't need to do anything else.
(and I don't think it's a Parking Brake issue, as mine is still non-op.)
#5
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I've got a few things still disconnected, so can't start the engine right now.
And correct - no LSD. I *thought* that I was able to spin the rear PS wheel when I first got the car up on the jack stands, but maybe I'm imagining it?
And correct - no LSD. I *thought* that I was able to spin the rear PS wheel when I first got the car up on the jack stands, but maybe I'm imagining it?
#6
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One other thing, and not sure if it matters relative to what I'm experiencing above:
My trans fluid is currently drained. Would that cause the behavior?
My trans fluid is currently drained. Would that cause the behavior?
#7
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Trans fluid will make no difference.
Most Likely Causes:
-- Locked up/frozen caliper piston.
-- Floating section of the caliper isn't floating (two halves of caliper stuck together)
-- Parking brake shoes are expanded or otherwise frozen to the drum.
The first two are diagnosed by removing the wheel, and lifting the brake caliper off the disk. The caliper is held on with a couple bolts, needs to be suspended by something other than the brake hose once it's off. Prior to removal, you may be able to move the piston and/or the floating side with a large screwdriver. Use caution to not pry too hard on the disk itself.
The third option is diagnosed first by trying to remove the disk from the stub axle. The locating screws are often frozen/rusted in the disk face, so an impact screwdriver is generally my weapon of choice for removal. Once the screws are out, the disk may be one with the stub axle flange due to corrosion, and if the parking brake shoes are expanded into a wear grove in the drum section, they will also make it impossible to pull the rotor off. If you find that you can get the rotor to move a little and it pops back to the stub axle, it's likely you are pulling on the hold-down springs for the parking brake shoes. There's am access hole in the backing plate through which you can rotate the self-adjusting mechanism on the parking brake shoes. With the adjusting sleeve at its shortest length, and all tension removed from the parking brake cable, the soes will pop free of the drum and the springs inside will pull the shoes together. The drum/rotor can then slide off the stub axle and the lugs so you can service the mechanism inside as necessary. I've seen a few insnaces of where the parking brake is not adjusted correctly, and the drum section is worn pretty deeply, to the point where it's a bit of extra work to get the shoes positioned correctly for rotor/drum removal.
After these brake-related possibilities, the other-causes list gets really ugly really fast, moving through side gear/bearing and differential issues.
Most Likely Causes:
-- Locked up/frozen caliper piston.
-- Floating section of the caliper isn't floating (two halves of caliper stuck together)
-- Parking brake shoes are expanded or otherwise frozen to the drum.
The first two are diagnosed by removing the wheel, and lifting the brake caliper off the disk. The caliper is held on with a couple bolts, needs to be suspended by something other than the brake hose once it's off. Prior to removal, you may be able to move the piston and/or the floating side with a large screwdriver. Use caution to not pry too hard on the disk itself.
The third option is diagnosed first by trying to remove the disk from the stub axle. The locating screws are often frozen/rusted in the disk face, so an impact screwdriver is generally my weapon of choice for removal. Once the screws are out, the disk may be one with the stub axle flange due to corrosion, and if the parking brake shoes are expanded into a wear grove in the drum section, they will also make it impossible to pull the rotor off. If you find that you can get the rotor to move a little and it pops back to the stub axle, it's likely you are pulling on the hold-down springs for the parking brake shoes. There's am access hole in the backing plate through which you can rotate the self-adjusting mechanism on the parking brake shoes. With the adjusting sleeve at its shortest length, and all tension removed from the parking brake cable, the soes will pop free of the drum and the springs inside will pull the shoes together. The drum/rotor can then slide off the stub axle and the lugs so you can service the mechanism inside as necessary. I've seen a few insnaces of where the parking brake is not adjusted correctly, and the drum section is worn pretty deeply, to the point where it's a bit of extra work to get the shoes positioned correctly for rotor/drum removal.
After these brake-related possibilities, the other-causes list gets really ugly really fast, moving through side gear/bearing and differential issues.
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#8
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Thanks, Bob.
The brakes (and everything, for that matter) were working before I put it up on the jack stands, and the parking brake is in-op (as my other thread on the topic mentions) so I don't think it's that. And the way it's moving ever so slightly CW and CCW indicates that there's not a pinch by any of the brake components.
Is there anything I could have done with the rear Pinch Bolt replacement to make this happen? I'm really at a loss as what I could have done to have caused this.
The brakes (and everything, for that matter) were working before I put it up on the jack stands, and the parking brake is in-op (as my other thread on the topic mentions) so I don't think it's that. And the way it's moving ever so slightly CW and CCW indicates that there's not a pinch by any of the brake components.
Is there anything I could have done with the rear Pinch Bolt replacement to make this happen? I'm really at a loss as what I could have done to have caused this.
#9
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Just throwing out another idea: clutch plate is stuck and gearbox is still stuck in gear. When you say there is a bit of movement, the wheel still drives a gear. I think. Don't see how shimying the shaft back can cause a bind up.
If not that, my guess would be the hand brake pads against the brake disc.
If not that, my guess would be the hand brake pads against the brake disc.
#10
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un do what you changed to see if that fixes it? any movement at all of the wheel or frozen solid?
make sure the drive line spins while in neutral.... pry on the coupler thru the inspection hole. see what happens.
make sure the drive line spins while in neutral.... pry on the coupler thru the inspection hole. see what happens.
#11
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Just throwing out another idea: clutch plate is stuck and gearbox is still stuck in gear. When you say there is a bit of movement, the wheel still drives a gear. I think. Don't see how shimying the shaft back can cause a bind up.
If not that, my guess would be the hand brake pads against the brake disc.
If not that, my guess would be the hand brake pads against the brake disc.
I didn't mess with the Clutch at all at the front, in fact couldn't get to it because the Lower BH was getting caught on the exhaust (didn't want to drop the exhaust at the time).
That said, I did have the clutch slave off and have since reattached it. I have not yet re-engaged the clutch since I still need to torque the bolts. I'll work on torquing tonight, will re-engage and report back.
Really...all I did was replace the PB at the back and tried to get to the front ones. I can't get one due to the BH removal problem, and I haven't touched the other one yet. I torqued the rear one to 66 lb-ft, but can undo it if you think it's worth doing so.
#12
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Where is it sticking?
Get it up on stands (if it isn't already, that part isn't clear), have someone lean on the wheel while you look underneath.
Is the half shaft turning with the wheel? Or is it not?
Alternatively, get under, reach up and try to turn the half shaft where it comes out of the trans. There's a bit of play in the CV joints, so if the trans is free, it should wiggle a bit. Alternatively, unbolt the half shaft. See if that lets the wheel turn.
It's kinda got to be:
Brakes
Bearing
Transmission
If the half shaft coming out of the trans is free, then it's the first two.
Pop the wheel off and follow Dr Bob's suggestions about pulling the caliper. If the caliper comes off easy, it's not that.
Then pull the brake disk. If it doesn't come off easy, it's likely the parking brake.
If it does come off easy, then it's likely the bearing.
Get it up on stands (if it isn't already, that part isn't clear), have someone lean on the wheel while you look underneath.
Is the half shaft turning with the wheel? Or is it not?
Alternatively, get under, reach up and try to turn the half shaft where it comes out of the trans. There's a bit of play in the CV joints, so if the trans is free, it should wiggle a bit. Alternatively, unbolt the half shaft. See if that lets the wheel turn.
It's kinda got to be:
Brakes
Bearing
Transmission
If the half shaft coming out of the trans is free, then it's the first two.
Pop the wheel off and follow Dr Bob's suggestions about pulling the caliper. If the caliper comes off easy, it's not that.
Then pull the brake disk. If it doesn't come off easy, it's likely the parking brake.
If it does come off easy, then it's likely the bearing.
#13
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I wouldn't say sticking. I'd say locked in place with very, very, very little rotational movement
Yep. On stands. And yep - a bit of turning. I've had my son wiggle the wheel, and I do get the same amount of small rotational movement in the shaft. Same thing if I rotate the wheel while I'm under the car.
It's kinda got to be:
Brakes
Bearing
Transmission
If the half shaft coming out of the trans is free, then it's the first two.
Pop the wheel off and follow Dr Bob's suggestions about pulling the caliper. If the caliper comes off easy, it's not that.
Then pull the brake disk. If it doesn't come off easy, it's likely the parking brake.
If it does come off easy, then it's likely the bearing.
I'm pretty confident that it's not something in the braking system. If it were, I wouldn't expect to get the slight rotation in the wheel, and I can say that I have done zero, and I do mean zero, in that department.
I'm really hoping that Leon's suggestion about the Clutch is right (or at least I think I do, as I'm hoping that it isn't the sign of some bigger problem with it). The Clutch Slave is the only other real variable in the mix that was moved (well, starter too, but I'm hard pressed to see how that could be affecting it), and I'm hoping by reengaging the clutch pedal once everything is together that it unsticks and I'm out of the woods. Hopefully.....
It's kinda got to be:
Brakes
Bearing
Transmission
If the half shaft coming out of the trans is free, then it's the first two.
Pop the wheel off and follow Dr Bob's suggestions about pulling the caliper. If the caliper comes off easy, it's not that.
Then pull the brake disk. If it doesn't come off easy, it's likely the parking brake.
If it does come off easy, then it's likely the bearing.
I'm really hoping that Leon's suggestion about the Clutch is right (or at least I think I do, as I'm hoping that it isn't the sign of some bigger problem with it). The Clutch Slave is the only other real variable in the mix that was moved (well, starter too, but I'm hard pressed to see how that could be affecting it), and I'm hoping by reengaging the clutch pedal once everything is together that it unsticks and I'm out of the woods. Hopefully.....
#14
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From my experience (with a open diff) yous should see the following:
1 - With transmission locked rotating one wheel will rotate the other in the oposite direction.
2 - With transmission free rotating one wheel might rotate the other as above but not if sufficient drag on it.
It would seem to me that if you can rotate one wheel only then the transmission is not locked.
I would suspect brakes or other binding. I have seen (on other vehicles) where brakes bind on enough (both park and main) for even trying to move the vehicle with the engine doesn't work.
Hope you get it sorted soon.
Myles
1 - With transmission locked rotating one wheel will rotate the other in the oposite direction.
2 - With transmission free rotating one wheel might rotate the other as above but not if sufficient drag on it.
It would seem to me that if you can rotate one wheel only then the transmission is not locked.
I would suspect brakes or other binding. I have seen (on other vehicles) where brakes bind on enough (both park and main) for even trying to move the vehicle with the engine doesn't work.
Hope you get it sorted soon.
Myles
#15
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I would think that that little movement you feel is the play between R&P teeth. Have you tried pushing hard on that wheel to see if it will move? if not give it a try.