Mrmerlin

I would suggest to stop chirping the tires with first or second gear,
you will damage the 1/2 main shaft bearing, then a squeal will start being heard in these gears.

It also sounds like its time to pull the fuel distributor feed banjo and the WUR banjo and check for dirt.

You should have the Bosch part number 7900 silver tip WR7DC plugs not the platinum's
Yes the Silver tips are the least expensive plugs that Bosch makes.
Make sure the fuel screen in the tank is in good condition

jpitman2

If your clutch is good, all thats left is the tacho is shot - there is NO way the rpm at same speed in same gear can change because power is down! In an auto maybe, but not in a 5 speed.
Get some pressure figures !!!
Have you tried lifting the idle with the idle adjuster screw?

jp

STRIKEMASTER

Where would I attach a 'wide band sensor'?? Keep in mind that there's no place to plug an O2 sensor into because my car doesn't have ANY "Environmental Perfection" crap on it: NO air pump, NO O2 sensor, NO EGR, No CATS, AND I LIKE it that way. "STOP GLOBAL COOLING!!" I guess I could do it the 'Old School' way: Clean the plugs, adjust the mixture, run the car, pull and check the plugs to see if they still carbon up. Keep adjusting the mixture till the plugs come out with 'tan' electrodes.

SwedeInSiam

Use an exhaust clamp in tailpipe if you use LM-2
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...roductid=16141

Or weld a O2 bung into you exhaust

STRIKEMASTER

Sorry Guys: Didn't mean to sound snarky in my last post, but I'm starting to get a little frustrated with this. I really wanted to take her to Hershey this year but couldn't because I was sent a square tooth instead of round tooth oil pump gear, so I was waiting for parts at the time. She started acting up AFTER I posted that I'll be at Frenzy this year. I put in WR7DCs in when I did the ignition. I'm getting CIS gages this week so I can check my pressure readings. I want to check that out before I take anything else apart or play with the fuel/air mix or idle speed. I'll check the screens when I hook up the CIS gages and report back. Are the screens in the WUR and fuel dist. replacable? I can get very fine mesh brass screens about 1/2" dia. at my local 'smoke shop'. Oil change is on for this weekend. My K-Jet book says that running rich is caused by low control puessure, so I guess pulgged screens would be a likely source, right? I've heard that Porsche "disapproves" of taking the fuel distributor apart, but I've got instructions on how to do it downloaded to my computer. Any comments on that? As for ColorTune, some biker friends of mine use it to tune their H.D.s and no complaints from them about it, so I thought I'd give it a shot. With the tach, I guess I should pull the pod and check all the connectors, maybe I've got an 'iffy' connection there. I want to get another conductive marker pen set before I do that so I can 're-draw' any circuit traces that don't check out, mine has dried up. When I was more heavily into R/C airplanes, I drew up circuits that turned on the Nav. lights when the throttle moved up past idle and landing lights came on when I dropped my flaps. I'd solder all the components to the perf board, then draw in the wiring. The pen set came with an 'overcoating' pen so I could draw one trace over another without shorting them. Seems like a way to fix bad tracks on the pod foil. What say on this idea? Only 2 more weekends before Frenzy and I really want to get there with BigBlue83 ( even if I have to drag it behind the "Great White Whale" LOL) Wish Me Luck.

STRIKEMASTER

I got a nice set of CIS gauges from Harbor Freight for $70. It has "every connector known to man" except a 10mm female/female adapter that I needed. LOL. It took me a while to figure out how to hook everything up and not leak. I think I got it all plugged in right.(See Pix) The last group of the part number on my WUR are worn off(?!?) so I don't know if I have a 053 or 063 unit. My Vin# is: WP0ZZZ92ZDS841138 and my engine # is: M-28/11 82D0515. Maybe someone here can enlighten me on this. I'll have to see if the part number is more visible in the daylight. It does have 2 vacuum lines on it, one on top, one on the side. I'll post some pressure readings tomorrow after I 'play' with it.

jpitman2

Blocked WUR will produce high control and a lean mixture, NOT low and rich. Your set up of the gauge looks right - closing the tap next to the T fitting will show system pressure on the gauge, open the T will show control pressure. My car is also an 83 Euro, and my WUR ends in 086, with 2 vacuum connections, so yours should be same no. I had my pod out once and had connection issues - connector blades in the wiring hoods are soft and easily bent out of good connection - bend some tension back into them with something like a dental pick after cleaning the ends.
Advise control pressure from cold to hot, and system pressure.

jp 83 Euro S AT 56k

STRIKEMASTER

Back at it again. It turns out I Do have an 086 WUR after all, nothing like fill daylight to help you see small dirty numbers. Connected the mighty vac to the bottom vac fitting and pulled 15 in/Hg of vacuume (375 mmHg,-- specs say 340-420 mmHg). Closed my remote fuel pump switch and got 78 Psi (5.3 bar) with the valve closed. Seems about right for system pressure. Opened the valve and pressure dropped to 62 Psi (4.2 Bar), bounced and then went up to 68 Psi (4.6 Bar) This is with the engine COLD--not run since yesterday. At that point my 'remote fuel pump switch' decided to die on me, and it started to rain!! I thought a 15 Amp rated switch would be OK for the fuel pump--NOT SO. Now I'm off to get a 30 Amp switch and wait out the rain. I've posted some pix and Videos of my gauge readings for your comments..And a bit of 'eye candy' for my friends "Down Under".

jpitman2

My car with hot control over 55psi was lean, absolutely no power - wouldnt break 25 mph. System pressure looks good. Cold control (depending on ambient temp) should be around 15-25psi - check the WSM. I think its running LEAN!! With the pump jumpered, engine running, extinguisher and helper handy, crack open the WUR outlet, see if much fuel comes out, and if the engine runs better(goes richer), and if gauge pressure goes down. If engine no better, pressures doesnt drop, blockage is inside WUR; if engine runs better, pressure drops, problem is further along the system - return line to tank via the distributor. If WUR, try flushing brake cleaner through in both directions, or compressed air, but not too hard - ususal problem is crud on the inlet brass gauze filter.
Some of your symptoms seem contradictory - if lean it should be seriously low on power all the time.
Your pump should NOT be drawing that much current !!! Mine showed ~7A the one time I tested it - you have a high resistance somewhere. If you had it jumpered with the relay out , check the fuse - those @#$%& euro fuses are cr@p! Pull the fuse out (is it 13 or 22??) - with the jumper fitted see which fuse stops the pump when pulled. Clean the fuse mounts well, and make sure they have some tension on the fuse. Clean the fuse ends as well the ends can get corroded. I have killed 2 pump relays in my time, and when the last one died out on the road, as I was jumpering the pump I saw a SPARK out of the corner of my eye - the pump fuse!! It could also have damaged wiring on the way to the pump, or at the pump connectors.

jp 83 Euro S AT 56k

GlenL

I got that "nice set," too and spent hours trying to make it work. The valving arrangement in the connectors doesn't work reliably. Searching the web, I found the solution was to take off the valves and reconnect the hoses to just the connectors and parts needed.

Don't do pressure tests for more than a few seconds without running the engine. The injectors open with pressure and you'll flood the cylinders with gas. Do it while running or run it periodically.

"Runs rich" => "low control pressure" => "WUR problem"

The WUR is a variable _drain_ from the Fuel Distributor. Blockage there makes high pressure so this is odd. It could be that someone has adjusted the CIS to address a problem which is the absolutely wrong way to deal with it. The problems will change and then the tune is wrong for both the new situation and the fixed situation.

jpitman2

The only pressure test NOT to do for long is a System pressure - for control, if all is well, the injectors should NOT open! I once ran my pump for 30 minutes without engine , no problems at all. Started immediately after.

jp 83 Euro S AT 56k

GlenL

Did we discuss this before? I very successfully petrolocked my engine while trying to measure the system and control pressures with that kit. "Petrolocked" is perhaps my own invention of filling the cylinders with gasoline so the engine won't turn. I had to remove the plugs, suck out the fuel, and change the oil. "Good times."

jpitman2

I did say 'if all is well' to qualify my statement - and thats from personal experience as above. If your system pressure is in range (it is), and the mixture control screw (just in front of the air plate) hasnt been adjusted inwards, and the injectors are flowing with a closed air plate, there must be a problem in the distributor IMHO. Can you try removing an injector from the inlet, point it into a large jar, with the fuel pipe connected, and try briefly jumpering the pump relay - if it sprays by itself that would confirm distributor problem to me. When you hydrolocked it and removed the plugs, did you notice if all cylinders seemed to flooded to the same degree, or was one much worse than the others? You might have one injector failed open..?

jp

GlenL

All the cylinders had some gas. The WUR had been acting up but, eventually, I found that it was in spec and didn't change anything.

STRIKEMASTER

I've adjusted the WUR pin down so now control pressure is now down to 45 PSI- 3 Bar. (not perfect, but better than 68 PSI) With the fuel pump jumpered, the injectors 'sing'. I did the old 'heater hose to the ear' trick and some injectors 'sing' more then others. Put the Color-tune plug in and got an orange flame--Too rich. I think the PO played with the A/F mix instead of cleaning the injectors.----SO,.. First I'll adjust the A/F mix till the injectors don't 'sing',and then adjust it till I get a blue flame. Then see what happens.