Don't be intimidated
#1
Don't be intimidated
After looking at some of the posts regarding sunroofs, I decided to jump in and get mine working after it not opening since I bought it in 1997 (I never registered it either). After getting the cover off with the three screws, it was very self evident as to how the whole thing operates.
So don't be scared and thanks for the body of knowledge on the subject, Rennlisters!
By the way, who sells the
"D" shaped shoe that attaches to the roof hatch plate that slides on the track;
Plastic Pivot/slide for the wind deflector arm?
So don't be scared and thanks for the body of knowledge on the subject, Rennlisters!
By the way, who sells the
"D" shaped shoe that attaches to the roof hatch plate that slides on the track;
Plastic Pivot/slide for the wind deflector arm?
#3
No picture, sorry. I looked at the other sunroof parts listed. Is the list price right for a sunroof motor costing over 800 dollars and a gearbox for the transmission being over 300 dollars? I mean wtf?
#6
#7
I had my drive motor rebuilt for $40 by a local electric motor shop.
New brushes and an interior cleaning. Works great now.
The gearbox is about as simple as you can get, what's wrong with yours?
Mine was a little stiff so just remove it, lube it and spin the crap out of it with a drill. Works like new one.
New brushes and an interior cleaning. Works great now.
The gearbox is about as simple as you can get, what's wrong with yours?
Mine was a little stiff so just remove it, lube it and spin the crap out of it with a drill. Works like new one.
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#8
Nothing wrong with my motor. The roof opens and closes in about 4 seconds. I need the guide shoes and the hinge for the deflector arm ( parts 10 and 14 according to the part diagram). I was just commenting on the prices as they seem very high..
#9
Are you are talking about the guide shoe that pushes the deflector arm down (part #14)?
Both of mine were damaged, one side was sitting down in next to the guide rail in pieces.
Without them, the deflector won't go down properly and will catch the front of the sunroof as it closes.
I ended up fabricating them. Simpler than getting new (or used) ones. Cheaper too. I just took some brass square stock the same size as the shoe, used a grinder to match the profile of the top, and drilled & tapped a hole in the bottom. 3mm IIRC. I then drilled out the little "nipple" that locked the shoe in place and screwed the new home-made shoe on using that hole.
The profile isn't exact, but it doesn't need to be. It just makes sure the deflector gets out of the way as the sunroof closes.
Both of mine were damaged, one side was sitting down in next to the guide rail in pieces.
Without them, the deflector won't go down properly and will catch the front of the sunroof as it closes.
I ended up fabricating them. Simpler than getting new (or used) ones. Cheaper too. I just took some brass square stock the same size as the shoe, used a grinder to match the profile of the top, and drilled & tapped a hole in the bottom. 3mm IIRC. I then drilled out the little "nipple" that locked the shoe in place and screwed the new home-made shoe on using that hole.
The profile isn't exact, but it doesn't need to be. It just makes sure the deflector gets out of the way as the sunroof closes.
#10
Yup, that's the piece I'm talking about. I have decided to fabricate my own as well. I'm using plastic to build out the bottom. I am going to figure it out later today, if possible using abs.
#11
I thought about using plastic, but I had some brass on hand and it's softer than the steel so it will wear first.
I thought about trying to make it closer to original with the "loop" part so that it would attach the same way, but that got way too complicated. So I decided to keep it super simple and just drill a hole in the ends of the guide arm.
I thought about trying to make it closer to original with the "loop" part so that it would attach the same way, but that got way too complicated. So I decided to keep it super simple and just drill a hole in the ends of the guide arm.
#12
Made 4 sets in four different ways. All sets were using countersunk flat head tapered seat machine screws with the last two sets made of delrin and acrylic. The last set was made from wall mounts for flat interior wall mirrors. The countersunk was there already, I just had to shave off the shelf. They even have a crescent profile to mate with the deflector arm and a central groove that indexes the arm perfectly. Got lucky in my bucket of loose spare parts. Should anyone need a set, let me know.