Illumination Help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
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From: Bay Area, CA
Illumination Help
Can anyone please help me identify which plug and pin out of the ce panel goes to the cluster to power the illumination and dash lights.
The diagrams I'm using are either too poor of resolution to make out which plug and wire it is, and nothing sheds light on where this mystery wire plugs into the harness or where it plugs into the cluster.
Make sense?
I have a 1980 US Automatic.
The diagrams I'm using are either too poor of resolution to make out which plug and wire it is, and nothing sheds light on where this mystery wire plugs into the harness or where it plugs into the cluster.
Make sense?
I have a 1980 US Automatic.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: North Country
If you've lost all illumination as a block, it is more likely you are referring to the background illumination for the dash, the pod switch illumination (ie foglight switch, defroster switch, etc) and also the center console bulb illumination (HVAC illumination, AC button, cigarette lighter). Dashboard warning bulbs do not go out as a block, and are on a different circuit than the afore mentioned illumination. This illumination system does often go out as a block.
The illumination for the background dash bulbs, pod switches (except headlight switch), and center console bulbs are on what I call the Black/Blue circuit. The wires to these bulbs are Black with Blue stripe and originate at the rheostat/dimmer dial just on the front border under the dash where your left hand would reach. There are two spades with the Black/Blue wires that attach to the rheostat and are the output wires that carry the current to the bulbs. The feed to the rheostat is a Black wire that supplies the current in.
I would check to make sure everything is attached. Once done, disconnect and test with a voltmeter that the Black is carrying (approximately) battery voltage in opposition to a good ground when you turn the headlight switch on. That's a start if it is this illumination system you have a problem with. Note the rheostat can be offering significant resistance if not 'clean'. You can either clean it well (use Deoxit), or you can bypass it and connect the Blue/Blacks to the Black. You may find a slight increase in illumination strength by bypassing the rheostat as you are bypassing any inherent resistance it may be offering.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
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From: Bay Area, CA
Previous owner had already bypassed the rheostat by using a spade connector between the wire leads. I was able to repair the wire that lit up the ***** on the cluster. There was another wire coming out of the J plug that totally fried and dangling.
But still no illumination lights of lights on the dash, ac, heater etc.
I will try testing the voltage as mentioned above.
But still no illumination lights of lights on the dash, ac, heater etc.
I will try testing the voltage as mentioned above.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 25
From: North Country
If you have illumination to the pod switches/'*****', then you have current.
The 'fried/dangling' wire is probably a Blue/Black that will need to be re-established and connected to the Black in order for you to get current to illuminate what is now at fault for illumination.
A picture would be worth a...
The 'fried/dangling' wire is probably a Blue/Black that will need to be re-established and connected to the Black in order for you to get current to illuminate what is now at fault for illumination.
A picture would be worth a...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, CA
If you have illumination to the pod switches/'*****', then you have current.
The 'fried/dangling' wire is probably a Blue/Black that will need to be re-established and connected to the Black in order for you to get current to illuminate what is now at fault for illumination.
A picture would be worth a...
The 'fried/dangling' wire is probably a Blue/Black that will need to be re-established and connected to the Black in order for you to get current to illuminate what is now at fault for illumination.
A picture would be worth a...
I would like to try a jumper from somewhere on the ce panel to somewhere under the pod to see if that lights anything up at all. Any recommendations on where to jump from the ce panel?
I can maybe attach the other end of the jumper to one of the spade connectors that's part of the bypass for the rheostat? Or maybe to a black and blue, or just the black?
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 25
From: North Country
I can take a picture tomorrow, but there's really not much to see,the burnt wire has been removed and the wires it compromised when it melted have been repaired or replaced.
I would like to try a jumper from somewhere on the ce panel to somewhere under the pod to see if that lights anything up at all. Any recommendations on where to jump from the ce panel?
I can maybe attach the other end of the jumper to one of the spade connectors that's part of the bypass for the rheostat? Or maybe to a black and blue, or just the black?
I would like to try a jumper from somewhere on the ce panel to somewhere under the pod to see if that lights anything up at all. Any recommendations on where to jump from the ce panel?
I can maybe attach the other end of the jumper to one of the spade connectors that's part of the bypass for the rheostat? Or maybe to a black and blue, or just the black?
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 25
From: North Country
I can take a picture tomorrow, but there's really not much to see,the burnt wire has been removed and the wires it compromised when it melted have been repaired or replaced.
I would like to try a jumper from somewhere on the ce panel to somewhere under the pod to see if that lights anything up at all. Any recommendations on where to jump from the ce panel?
I can maybe attach the other end of the jumper to one of the spade connectors that's part of the bypass for the rheostat? Or maybe to a black and blue, or just the black?
I would like to try a jumper from somewhere on the ce panel to somewhere under the pod to see if that lights anything up at all. Any recommendations on where to jump from the ce panel?
I can maybe attach the other end of the jumper to one of the spade connectors that's part of the bypass for the rheostat? Or maybe to a black and blue, or just the black?
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, CA
I was more or less afraid that's what had to be done. I've been under that pod quite a bit, and everything looks in order... I've been trying to find the other side of that burnt wire for quite a while now. I'll keep looking.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,662
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From: North Country
Best Wishes Man.
Sometimes it is just a tedious PITA.
I had a problem where my AC compressor would shut off if I turned the light switch on. I had a thread "Tricky AC problem'. It took me over 2 years to figure it out. I went through quite a bit of tedium to get to the bottom of it.
Then a guy with a similar problem posted. I told him to do one thing as a test, and he had the same issue that was figured out in ten minutes.
Sometimes it is just a tedious PITA.
I had a problem where my AC compressor would shut off if I turned the light switch on. I had a thread "Tricky AC problem'. It took me over 2 years to figure it out. I went through quite a bit of tedium to get to the bottom of it.
Then a guy with a similar problem posted. I told him to do one thing as a test, and he had the same issue that was figured out in ten minutes.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, CA
Best Wishes Man.
Sometimes it is just a tedious PITA.
I had a problem where my AC compressor would shut off if I turned the light switch on. I had a thread "Tricky AC problem'. It took me over 2 years to figure it out. I went through quite a bit of tedium to get to the bottom of it.
Then a guy with a similar problem posted. I told him to do one thing as a test, and he had the same issue that was figured out in ten minutes.
Sometimes it is just a tedious PITA.
I had a problem where my AC compressor would shut off if I turned the light switch on. I had a thread "Tricky AC problem'. It took me over 2 years to figure it out. I went through quite a bit of tedium to get to the bottom of it.
Then a guy with a similar problem posted. I told him to do one thing as a test, and he had the same issue that was figured out in ten minutes.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 122
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From: Bay Area, CA
Per the owners manual, I thought any phosphate free coolant will work. The coolant I have said it complies with European and Asian non phosphate requirements...
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 25
From: North Country
I'm sure that is accurate. I was just relating what the elders on the Forum now recommend. I get mine from Amazon. And of course ion free distilled water.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 122
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From: Bay Area, CA
The previous owner claimed to be a mechanic and couldn't get it running, noob! I'm a weekend warrior at best when it comes to cars, but I have Rennlist! You can make anything happen with these cars if you pay enough attention and ask the right questions here!