Can anyone please help me identify which plug and pin out of the ce panel goes to the cluster to power the illumination and dash lights.

The diagrams I'm using are either too poor of resolution to make out which plug and wire it is, and nothing sheds light on where this mystery wire plugs into the harness or where it plugs into the cluster.

Make sense?

I have a 1980 US Automatic.

 

Are you talking about the dimmer switch or the control module for the warning lights?

The dimmer switch is on the underside of the pod to the left of the steering wheel.

 

This.
If you've lost all illumination as a block, it is more likely you are referring to the background illumination for the dash, the pod switch illumination (ie foglight switch, defroster switch, etc) and also the center console bulb illumination (HVAC illumination, AC button, cigarette lighter). Dashboard warning bulbs do not go out as a block, and are on a different circuit than the afore mentioned illumination. This illumination system does often go out as a block.
The illumination for the background dash bulbs, pod switches (except headlight switch), and center console bulbs are on what I call the Black/Blue circuit. The wires to these bulbs are Black with Blue stripe and originate at the rheostat/dimmer dial just on the front border under the dash where your left hand would reach. There are two spades with the Black/Blue wires that attach to the rheostat and are the output wires that carry the current to the bulbs. The feed to the rheostat is a Black wire that supplies the current in.
I would check to make sure everything is attached. Once done, disconnect and test with a voltmeter that the Black is carrying (approximately) battery voltage in opposition to a good ground when you turn the headlight switch on. That's a start if it is this illumination system you have a problem with. Note the rheostat can be offering significant resistance if not 'clean'. You can either clean it well (use Deoxit), or you can bypass it and connect the Blue/Blacks to the Black. You may find a slight increase in illumination strength by bypassing the rheostat as you are bypassing any inherent resistance it may be offering.

 

Previous owner had already bypassed the rheostat by using a spade connector between the wire leads. I was able to repair the wire that lit up the ***** on the cluster. There was another wire coming out of the J plug that totally fried and dangling.

But still no illumination lights of lights on the dash, ac, heater etc.

I will try testing the voltage as mentioned above.

 

If you have illumination to the pod switches/'*****', then you have current.
The 'fried/dangling' wire is probably a Blue/Black that will need to be re-established and connected to the Black in order for you to get current to illuminate what is now at fault for illumination.
A picture would be worth a...

 

I can take a picture tomorrow, but there's really not much to see,the burnt wire has been removed and the wires it compromised when it melted have been repaired or replaced.

I would like to try a jumper from somewhere on the ce panel to somewhere under the pod to see if that lights anything up at all. Any recommendations on where to jump from the ce panel?

I can maybe attach the other end of the jumper to one of the spade connectors that's part of the bypass for the rheostat? Or maybe to a black and blue, or just the black?

 

Like I said before in my earlier post, the current to illuminate what you need will have nothing to do with 'jumpering' from the CE panel. It will have all to do with 'jumpering', or re-establishing current to the Blue/Black system which are the endpoints to your dash/center console illumination through the switched current feed from your headlight switch which would be considered the proximal feed to the illumination system. This would be the Black wire feed to the original rheostat connection. You will need to go back under, dissect, and 're-find' these original lines (or what is left of them) and re-splice/repair these connections. There is no other avenue to come from to address this single feed into the multiple connection.

 

Like I said before in my earlier post, the current to illuminate what you need will have nothing to do with 'jumpering' from the CE panel. It will have all to do with 'jumpering', or re-establishing current to the Blue/Black system which are the endpoints to your dash/center console illumination through the switched current feed from your headlight switch which would be considered the proximal feed to the illumination system. This would be the Black wire feed to the original rheostat connection. You will need to go back under, dissect, and 're-find' these original lines (or what is left of them) and re-splice/repair these connections. There is no other avenue to come from to address this single feed into the multiple connection.

 

I was more or less afraid that's what had to be done. I've been under that pod quite a bit, and everything looks in order... I've been trying to find the other side of that burnt wire for quite a while now. I'll keep looking.

 

Best Wishes Man.
Sometimes it is just a tedious PITA.
I had a problem where my AC compressor would shut off if I turned the light switch on. I had a thread "Tricky AC problem'. It took me over 2 years to figure it out. I went through quite a bit of tedium to get to the bottom of it.
Then a guy with a similar problem posted. I told him to do one thing as a test, and he had the same issue that was figured out in ten minutes.

 

Thanks, I'll eventually get it sorted out. It's more of an annoyance right now since the car isn't quite ready for the street yet. Have a vacuum t connection on order that I think is causing my rough idle once the car warms. Now that it runs, I'm finding a few things needing attention. I believe my thermostat is stuck, I drained the 12+ year old coolant put today and started filling the resevoir, but it only took 1.5 gallons. I ran the vehicle shortly to see if the thermostat would open (which I think on these, it's actually closing) and start pulling the coolant from the resevoir, but it does not. So I'll be ordering a new thermostat tomorrow. Tons of things that are tedious and PITA's.

 

I'm more knowledgeable with the S4 under the hood business.
Does sound like a thermostat is in order.
You do know to use Xerex G05 for the coolant in our aluminum engines ?

 

Per the owners manual, I thought any phosphate free coolant will work. The coolant I have said it complies with European and Asian non phosphate requirements...

 

I'm sure that is accurate. I was just relating what the elders on the Forum now recommend. I get mine from Amazon. And of course ion free distilled water.

 

I've read a lot of the threads regarding the coolant choices. At this point, resurrecting a left for dead shark, I'm using mid-grade oil and coolant just so I can run it and see what I have as far as compression and other specs. I bought it just a few months ago, and it had been sitting for well over a decade. If everything checks out, I'll change all the fluids again, using the premium choices.

The previous owner claimed to be a mechanic and couldn't get it running, noob! I'm a weekend warrior at best when it comes to cars, but I have Rennlist! You can make anything happen with these cars if you pay enough attention and ask the right questions here!