Porsche5050

I'll be calling one of the big 3 in a few days to order my parts for the timing belt, water pump, and misc. parts. How much should I set aside for parts? I want to do all the important items. Rollers, seals, etc. Just wanted to get an idea of what you all paid in the past for the job. Minus labor ofcourse because that's going to be taken care of by the hands that are typing these words.

Cobey

One million dollars.

Porsche5050

I was talking about the belt job not my bills!

SharkFan

Tariq,

I just did this back in January and the parts ran me about $550 from 928 Int. and that was with a New not rebuilt waterpump.

Looks like i'll be doing the same thing within the next couple of weeks.

Cobey

LOL. Good question. I am interested in the answer as well. (7 years and 20k miles on mine.)

BTW, how is the weather back home there?

Cobey

Dave, what was your part list?

Porsche5050

7 years? Wow. You're not interference though so you're ok. One of the perks of having an S4 I guess. I'm doing mine because it was done 5 years ago even though it's only been 30k miles. Can anyone with authority tell me that I can hold off on this?

Cobey

Most are going to say change it. Mine is how I got it, not through lack of attention on my part. It is on the list of things to do before spring. (Note: she is a garage queen at the moment, not a daly driver.)

Porsche5050

I don't drive mine daily either. Oh who am I fooling I have to do this. No more procastinating or else this could end up ugly. 500 isn't too bad.

SharkFan

Is that enough Authority for ya.

I have a reciept of mine being done 2 years ago and I still am going to do it, just for the piece of mind. When that light comes on, it can give ya a mild heart attack.

Cobey, my list was this,

Belt $42
Tension Roller $55
Tensioner Boot $6.50
idler roller $55
belt tensioner gasket $12
water pump $195
W/P core $100
O-ring tensioner piston $1

which after core is actually less than $400

I also changed the
Fan Switch $12
Thermostat $25
Thermostat rear seal $11
Radiator Cap $6

At the time I did not have the time to do the work so I had someone do it and even though it would only have taken an extra hour for them to change the oil pump seals while they were in there, they decided to wait until I came to pick up the car to inform me that the seal needed to be replaced. (A fine example of why you should do it yourself)

John Struthers

Jay Wellwood ,
Put togther a COMPLETE list for this a about a year ago -archives- with prices -subject to change- you could pick and choose a little.

Thom1

Hey Tariq,

I keep refining a document called: Thom’s Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement Essentials. I posted it to the new visitor's post at the top of the forum. There are several parts and prices lists, pictorial procedure links, etc. I even added Dave's price list.

HTH,

WallyP

There are two philosophies on doing this job:
Go in and change everything.
Go in and inspect everything, and change what appears to need changing.

If you can have the car apart for a week, the second philosophy can save some serious bucks...

Thom1

Hi Wally,

Of course the lists of parts in my essentials document specify levels of detail from bare bones to most anything that should be replaced by 100,000 miles or ten years.

I had to do the many thousand dollar major interference repair because I did not replace the tensioner idler roller the first time I replaced the pump and belt.

Can you give us some methods for parts analysis such as rollers?

Cobey

Thansk for the extra info guys!

Hey Wally, and chance your group can assemble a kit for sale on your site like the tuneup kits? (Ordered one fo those yesterday.) It would certainly save on guess work by newbies. You could do barebones kit with just the belts and pump needs and full kit which includes rollers, tensioners, etc.