Need help with maual shifter
#1
Captain Obvious
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Need help with maual shifter
After replacing the front shifter cup on my '85 5-speed, I sill have about 1" of play (front to back) in the shifter when it's in gear. There is minimal lateral (side) movement in the shifter.
Sometimes gear changeing is very smooth, other times I have to use a little force. This occurs at random intervals. I'm suspecting that the rear shifter universal joint might be worn out.
Is my diagnosys correct?
Can anyone tell me how much free-play is normal?
Also, what does it take to change the rear shifter joint?
Any help is greatly apreciated!
Imre T.
Sometimes gear changeing is very smooth, other times I have to use a little force. This occurs at random intervals. I'm suspecting that the rear shifter universal joint might be worn out.
Is my diagnosys correct?
Can anyone tell me how much free-play is normal?
Also, what does it take to change the rear shifter joint?
Any help is greatly apreciated!
Imre T.
#2
Shifter play
I don't understand how the degree of play can be sporadic?
It almost sounds as if the little set screw that holds the shifter rod in the universal is loose but it is supposed to be torqued to a specific ft lb and have locktight on the threads. The forward end, as you know, has a fixed attachment so the play shouldn't be up there.
Any chance that the bracket that is attached to the torque tube and holds the shifter in place is loose - two studs and nuts I believe.
It almost sounds as if the little set screw that holds the shifter rod in the universal is loose but it is supposed to be torqued to a specific ft lb and have locktight on the threads. The forward end, as you know, has a fixed attachment so the play shouldn't be up there.
Any chance that the bracket that is attached to the torque tube and holds the shifter in place is loose - two studs and nuts I believe.
#4
Captain Obvious
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Need Wally's advice!
If you do a search on the subject on this board and, you will find the detailed instructions of how to replavce the ball cup. It's a simple procedure but very time consuming. You sholdbe able to find the instructions under a topic that I started a couple of months ago.
Deb,
I don't think I made it clear, but the degree of play is NOT sporadic. The smoothness and easiness of shifting IS sporatic. Feels as if the shifter is not lineing up during shifting. This was alot more evident before I changed the front shifter ball cup.
Since I bought the car like this, I'm not certain if the transmission has some mechanical problems or it's just a matter of worn out universal joint.
WALLY P. might know more about this problem, but any input is greatly apreciated.
I would still like to know how to replace the rear shifter joint.
Thanks for the replies!
Imre T.
Deb,
I don't think I made it clear, but the degree of play is NOT sporadic. The smoothness and easiness of shifting IS sporatic. Feels as if the shifter is not lineing up during shifting. This was alot more evident before I changed the front shifter ball cup.
Since I bought the car like this, I'm not certain if the transmission has some mechanical problems or it's just a matter of worn out universal joint.
WALLY P. might know more about this problem, but any input is greatly apreciated.
I would still like to know how to replace the rear shifter joint.
Thanks for the replies!
Imre T.
#5
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the rear shift coupler bushings are slightly slotted for and aft , there is always some play even when new . Requiring extra effort to shift I believe would be unrelated
#6
Right now I can't picture how much of the exhaust might be in your way but removing the bearing unit is quite simple. Do you have the factory manual -(34-8f section) disassembling and assembling the selector unit)has a very clear description and pictures of the area.
#7
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Have you inspected the rear coupling? I found that one of the bushings had fallen right out. I was able to fabricate one from a shock mount bushing. Solved the the excess play problem.
Sean
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#8
Captain Obvious
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Jim,
How much for and aft play is normal? I have at least 1"
Deb,
I have the manual but it's in a crappy scanned version not PDF. To me it's still usable.
Sean,
Thanks for the info. I will check to see if the bushings are there.
Thanks all the replies,
Imre T.
How much for and aft play is normal? I have at least 1"
Deb,
I have the manual but it's in a crappy scanned version not PDF. To me it's still usable.
Sean,
Thanks for the info. I will check to see if the bushings are there.
Thanks all the replies,
Imre T.
#9
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The shift linkage is pretty simple.
The lever has two pins with nylon bushings that attach the lever to the forward shift rod and the rear shift rod so that moving the lever side to side rotates the rods, and moving the lever fore and aft moves only the rear shift rod fore and aft. The front shift rod is anchored at the forward end by the cup and ball, and the rod is supported just in front of the shifter by a rubber mount with a nylon bushing. (You can just see this support from inside the car by pushing the foam rubber at the front of the shifter aside.)
The rear shift rod is attached to a universal joint that has nylon cups, and this joint attaches to the transmission shift with a tapered grub screw.
Possible sources of excessive free play:
- Front shifter cup worn. Shouldn't be your problem if the new cup was properly installed.
- Missing nylon ring on the front support. You have to take the torque tube out to replace the support! You can replace the nylon ring from inside the car by slitting it and sliding it into the rubber - but you can't buy just the nylon ring. You can make a replacement ring with some ingenuity.
- Worn or missing nylon busings on the pins at the lever. Cheap, pretty easy to replace.
- Worn or missing nylon cups in the rear shift joint. The 928 cups are not available separately, and are different from the available 944 cups. (28 cups have oval holes, 944 cups have round holes. The entire joint is not too expensive (available from us or the other vendors) and not too hard to replace. You are working over the torque tube, so good dexterity is required, but only a couple of fasteners.
- Loose rear shift joint.
- Internal transmission problems. Rare, very expensive.
Don't overlook the possibility of having two different problems - loose linkage and a clutch that doesn't fully release. Clutch could be air in the hydraulics, or maladjusted center plate.
The lever has two pins with nylon bushings that attach the lever to the forward shift rod and the rear shift rod so that moving the lever side to side rotates the rods, and moving the lever fore and aft moves only the rear shift rod fore and aft. The front shift rod is anchored at the forward end by the cup and ball, and the rod is supported just in front of the shifter by a rubber mount with a nylon bushing. (You can just see this support from inside the car by pushing the foam rubber at the front of the shifter aside.)
The rear shift rod is attached to a universal joint that has nylon cups, and this joint attaches to the transmission shift with a tapered grub screw.
Possible sources of excessive free play:
- Front shifter cup worn. Shouldn't be your problem if the new cup was properly installed.
- Missing nylon ring on the front support. You have to take the torque tube out to replace the support! You can replace the nylon ring from inside the car by slitting it and sliding it into the rubber - but you can't buy just the nylon ring. You can make a replacement ring with some ingenuity.
- Worn or missing nylon busings on the pins at the lever. Cheap, pretty easy to replace.
- Worn or missing nylon cups in the rear shift joint. The 928 cups are not available separately, and are different from the available 944 cups. (28 cups have oval holes, 944 cups have round holes. The entire joint is not too expensive (available from us or the other vendors) and not too hard to replace. You are working over the torque tube, so good dexterity is required, but only a couple of fasteners.
- Loose rear shift joint.
- Internal transmission problems. Rare, very expensive.
Don't overlook the possibility of having two different problems - loose linkage and a clutch that doesn't fully release. Clutch could be air in the hydraulics, or maladjusted center plate.