Coolant tank R&R
#1
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My coolant reserve tank is leaking in the dimpled area, so I bought one of Carl's aluminum replacements. Very well made I must say!
Anyway is there a preferred method to removing the old tank, and replacing with the new one? I have a lift so it should make the job easier.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Anyway is there a preferred method to removing the old tank, and replacing with the new one? I have a lift so it should make the job easier.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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The plastic ones well be held on by either two or three screws ... if two, it's quite easy to get out, only hard part is pulling it up and out enough to reach the hose clamp underneath. Mine only had two but I believe the third one is in some crazy spot very difficult to reach, so hope yours only has two.
I think the reason many cars have only two is someone replaced the tank in the past.
I think the reason many cars have only two is someone replaced the tank in the past.
#3
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The two are visible. The third one, if present, is located in the corner in the far backside of the reservoir.
Make sure to go ahead and replace ALL the hoses underneath the reservoir WYAIT. On my GTS, the reservoir had been replaced by the dealer at least 2 times. The hoses underneath the reservoir had never been replaced and had begun leaking.
Make sure to go ahead and replace ALL the hoses underneath the reservoir WYAIT. On my GTS, the reservoir had been replaced by the dealer at least 2 times. The hoses underneath the reservoir had never been replaced and had begun leaking.
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Well, it's one job that I truly dislike, but got it done. I guess it's been replaced before cause there was only 2 bolts holding it in.
A question, the coolant level sensor came out of the old tank easily, but because of the welding on the inside of the tank, I had to use my die grinder to clean up the weld. The sensor went in but it was tight, though I didn't force it. Now when I start the car I get the check coolant level warning on the instrument panel. I can get it to go off by flicking the stalk. I haven't driven the car only put it back in the garage. Are the sensors very fragile, would driving the car make any difference, like maybe the sensor is stuck, or is a new sensor in my future. Pelican has them, but the things are over 2 hundred bucks, that's more than the tank cost. I buy one if I need too, but any ideas would be helpful. BTW, the tank is completely full.
A question, the coolant level sensor came out of the old tank easily, but because of the welding on the inside of the tank, I had to use my die grinder to clean up the weld. The sensor went in but it was tight, though I didn't force it. Now when I start the car I get the check coolant level warning on the instrument panel. I can get it to go off by flicking the stalk. I haven't driven the car only put it back in the garage. Are the sensors very fragile, would driving the car make any difference, like maybe the sensor is stuck, or is a new sensor in my future. Pelican has them, but the things are over 2 hundred bucks, that's more than the tank cost. I buy one if I need too, but any ideas would be helpful. BTW, the tank is completely full.
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If you take out the sensor and connect it up to a multimeter (ohms) you can check that it operates correctly and consistently with float movement.
If it doesn't switch on and off, then you need a new sensor (it's a simple reed switch). If it does operate correctly, then it will be limitation of movement that's the problem. Sometimes it can be that the float doesn't move freely enough on the shaft, and driving causes it to move. I've also had a float that didn't float ... you can check for that issue out of the tank as well.
Taking it out to check will give you the answer.
If it doesn't switch on and off, then you need a new sensor (it's a simple reed switch). If it does operate correctly, then it will be limitation of movement that's the problem. Sometimes it can be that the float doesn't move freely enough on the shaft, and driving causes it to move. I've also had a float that didn't float ... you can check for that issue out of the tank as well.
Taking it out to check will give you the answer.
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My tank has finally cracked on the GT. Went to order one today.
Porsche has got to be kidding with the new price on this little plastic tank....$263.00!
Porsche has got to be kidding with the new price on this little plastic tank....$263.00!
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#9
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Here's an update. I think I paid $ 185.00 for the aluminum tank from Carl, and it's hands down better than the plastic tank. Prolly out last me, and that's an understatement!
Stan, is always preaching about the benefits of Deoxit. This stuff really works! I was ready to spend another 180 on a new level sensor, but I put a drop in the connector, and a drop on each of the metal pins on the sensor, and all is good again!
Buy the aluminum tank from Carl, it'll out last you, and the car.
Stan, is always preaching about the benefits of Deoxit. This stuff really works! I was ready to spend another 180 on a new level sensor, but I put a drop in the connector, and a drop on each of the metal pins on the sensor, and all is good again!
Buy the aluminum tank from Carl, it'll out last you, and the car.
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+1 on Deoxit. I ultimately fixed my cooling fans problem (only one working in a failure mode) by applying Deoxit to all connections in the fan circuit....and at the fuse panel. I'm sure all connections were compromised by oxidation to some degree, but it was the fuse socket that was contributing the most as it was the last place I applied the Deoxit and ever since the fans have worked perfectly.
I think the tank would look great anodized black. I'd also like an aluminum windshield washer tank filler neck. These plastic bits are stupidly expensive, especially considering their lifecycle.
I think the tank would look great anodized black. I'd also like an aluminum windshield washer tank filler neck. These plastic bits are stupidly expensive, especially considering their lifecycle.
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