The question about gasket type I've sidestepped and just gotten new stock, Reinz gaskets. (928.104.361+2.07)

The remaining question is how to do it differently or better. I've always use the three-torque approach and re-re-re-torqued them until the final position is the same. On the first re-torque it'll be noticeably further to get to the torque. 2nd time it's less so. I usually use 85 Nm but thinking to go 90Nm as it's mentioned in the manual. I've got the '80 block so no later studs. I'm concerned about doing the angles as the engine wasn't made for that.

 

Looking at the pics, and then the block, I could see that one of the exhaust stains was in some very light machining marks. I use some 600 grit paper to smooth that off. With that, the block and heads cleaned up very nicely.

The heads are on. I studied the manual and on-line stuff and did it very carefully. Washers got sanded and marked and reworked if turning. The nuts got a light coat of oil on the face touching the washer to help that. That's not by-the-book and may result in a slightly higher torque. Used 90 Nm for final torque and did that twice.

And to reprise a discussion, the pistons come up to the top of the block and a few look to extend slightly above the block. The space between piston and head is all in the gasket thickness.

 

So you used the torque method to install the head nuts. did you use your original studs?
Is there a proper proceedure for removing the heads/nuts?

I need to do my head gaskets and Cam carrier gasket this winter.

 

Yes, torqued per the manual and re-used the studs and fasteners. The manual says to remove the cylinder head nuts in the reverse order of the torquing sequence but I can't imagine that it matters.

 

Did you have the valves vacuum tested prior to bolting them on?

 

You mean farther stretched bolts (?).

 

No. I'm not even sure what that is.

 

Yes. The torque is the same. I meant more torque on the threads as less is on the nut face. More stretch and more clamping force.