Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Bad L-Jet?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-13-2015, 02:17 AM
  #46  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I am super excited.

So I started her up, initially ran at about 1100 rpms, then settle down to about 850 rpms.

After a few minutes, its barely idling, down to about 150 and almost stalling.

Sounds like MAF maybe? Any ideas?
Old 06-13-2015, 02:56 AM
  #47  
James Bailey
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
James Bailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 18,061
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

car does not have MAF..... uses a simple barn door which swings in the wind. Aux air valve opens for cold start gradually closes over time. Maybe some one adjusted the idle speed screw ???
Old 06-13-2015, 03:09 AM
  #48  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Maybe. I have plenty of time to find out. I am just elated to hear it run on its own. I bought it for $700, and it was sitting since atleast 2004. But for 700 to get my favorite Porsche, I could go out on that limb.

It needs so much more love. Interior in bad shape, exterior weathered. Windows don't work, instrument cluster gets no light, no interior lights save for the door panels, possible sending unit or fuel gauge failure, door and hatch locks frozen, brakes need to be hooked up and totally replaced, and I'm quite sure that's only scratching the surface and are minor repairs.

I just love these cars, and my budget just couldn't handle getting one in great shape.
Old 06-13-2015, 10:57 AM
  #49  
ltoolio
Rennlist Member
 
ltoolio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Lisle, IL
Posts: 1,415
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JobeJoe
I'll need to order a new one, but once I wiggles it a little, more to love it out of way, a lot of the plastic insulation broke away. I pulled it out, cracked off the remaining insulation and reinserted it and crank and it ran!!
What is "it" in that picture? I see the green wire with the black end-cap, but what does it to and where does it plug into?

Just looking to learn....

(and great job sticking with it. Great to see you got it running!)

EDIT: Just saw the answer in your post here.
Old 06-13-2015, 02:29 PM
  #50  
Kiln_Red
Three Wheelin'
 
Kiln_Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Posts: 1,394
Received 159 Likes on 82 Posts
Default

Oxygen sensor
Old 06-13-2015, 02:35 PM
  #51  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
Oxygen sensor
I know that black portion of the connector goes back to the actual oxygen sensor, the green side of that wire goes through the firewall and I lose sight of it from there. Do you know where that side goes in the engine compartment? Should a wire in this shape cause the problems I am having?

I will see if it starts again after work tonight. I did notice that my battery was weak before it ran, about 11.4V. I put in on the charger and am hoping that was the cause of it not wanting to run again.

But I will need to replace that wire, I'll get in touch with Roger and see what he has. I also posted a new thread about this wire, and if that sensor could really be responsible for my symptoms, because I am reading that many owners bypass this altogether without issue.

Thanks again all.
Old 06-13-2015, 03:08 PM
  #52  
Kiln_Red
Three Wheelin'
 
Kiln_Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Posts: 1,394
Received 159 Likes on 82 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JobeJoe
Should a wire in this shape cause the problems I am having?
No. Your no-start, intermittent start issue is elsewhere.

If you're just going to keep cranking it over in blind hope of a different result, folks around here will feel less inclined to offer help. At this point, it is already very hard to help as you're not taking any technical notes..

For example, is your NOID light pulsing now? Was there an issue with the light? You have to diag these things if you want to isolate the issue. There are a number of reasons why the injectors wouldn't fire, or fire intermittently. With your willing effort, many of us here can help you eliminate those reasons one by one and actually lead you to the REAL issue.

I have referred to the WSM troubleshoot guide at least twice now. I've also attached a copy of it. You have indicated that you have a multimeter and a knowledge of how to use it, so why not use the diagnostic tools outlined in the WSM?

Do you realize that there is an ignition module that the green wire connects to? The module itself can fail. The L-jet relies on this module for its signal from the ignition. Though it isn't a very conclusive diagnostic, there is a test outlined in the AFC troubleshoot guide that may offer a lead as to whether this signal is being received or not.
Old 06-13-2015, 03:17 PM
  #53  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
No. Your no-start, intermittent start issue is elsewhere.

If you're just going to keep cranking it over in blind hope of a different result, folks around here will feel less inclined to offer help. At this point, it is already very hard to help as you're not taking any technical notes..

For example, is your NOID light pulsing now? Was there an issue with the light? You have to diag these things if you want to isolate the issue. There are a number of reasons why the injectors wouldn't fire, or fire intermittently. With your willing effort, many of us here can help you eliminate those reasons one by one and actually lead you to the REAL issue.

I have referred to the WSM troubleshoot guide at least twice now. I've also attached a copy of it. You have indicated that you have a multimeter and a knowledge of how to use it, so why not use the diagnostic tools outlined in the WSM?

Do you realize that there is an ignition module that the green wire connects to? The module itself can fail. The L-jet relies on this module for its signal from the ignition. Though it isn't a very conclusive diagnostic, there is a test outlined in the AFC troubleshoot guide that may offer a lead as to whether this signal is being received or not.
As I have said before, I am going to go through all those, in fact I'm partially done, just haven't printed out my steps to annotate as I go. My printer is acting up and haven't had time to get it working. It's not like I am purposely avoiding it, I am trying to tackle a real problem with this sensor plug, and asking questions about. I'm sure I can't leave it the way it is. Like I said, I did some digging on the wire and can't find much. I thought I could ask here, because in fact since I've owned the car, it never ran. What I did to that wire was the only thing that led it to run. It's natural that I'm going to ask a question about it. If you're telling me that I cannot ask a question until all else that you requested is done, then thanks for your help so far, and I will not blame you if you do not want to reply anymore. But I will check those ground resistance numbers and will report back. I FOUND what I thought is a problem, and came here to check on it. I am not done troubleshooting by any means, but if you expect me to bite my tongue until I have completed your tasks, then I'm sorry but I'm not wired that way. It's an information based society, and I wanted a little light shed on that sensor wire. Thanks again for the help.
Old 06-13-2015, 05:02 PM
  #54  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

To answer your question, Kiln, the noid light never did pulse. Which is weird, maybe the left bank is not getting pulse, but it seem to be running on more than 4 cylinders. I thought perhaps the noid light was dead at that point, as it is a rented set.
I do remember reading that if one injector goes down, they all do, so that theory is up in the air.
But like you said, I will follow the rest of the WSM steps before asking anymore questions.

Just to note, I got sidetracked going through the WSM previously as one of my grounds bolts above the panel, no longer tightens, so I started working on that, leading to finding the o2 connector in the shape it is. So please don't think I'm not using your advice, I just keep finding things during that process that should be addressed.
Old 06-14-2015, 03:16 PM
  #55  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

So I'm going to dive in and finish measuring the resistance readings this evening. I checked the plug going to the ignition module, and all of the wires and connectors look great. But the rubber grommet that goes over the connector as it plugs into the module, looks like it may have vacuum lines above and below the connector. The small rubber tunes coming out of the rubber piece were brittle and snapped, but I don't see any loose vacuum lines in the vicinity. The diagram I have only shows the electrical layout, so I'm unsure if there is supposed to be air lines going in to the module.
Old 06-14-2015, 03:44 PM
  #56  
ltoolio
Rennlist Member
 
ltoolio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Lisle, IL
Posts: 1,415
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JobeJoe
So I'm going to dive in and finish measuring the resistance readings this evening. I checked the plug going to the ignition module, and all of the wires and connectors look great. But the rubber grommet that goes over the connector as it plugs into the module, looks like it may have vacuum lines above and below the connector. The small rubber tunes coming out of the rubber piece were brittle and snapped, but I don't see any loose vacuum lines in the vicinity. The diagram I have only shows the electrical layout, so I'm unsure if there is supposed to be air lines going in to the module.
Got a picture?
Old 06-14-2015, 03:46 PM
  #57  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ltoolio
Got a picture?
When I get back home from work I'll get a picture of it.
Old 06-14-2015, 11:21 PM
  #58  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default


Originally Posted by ltoolio
Got a picture?




Pic got a little cropped but do you see those holes in the corner of the boot? They had a stem on them, or atleast two on one side that crumbled off.



A closer look at the wires going in to the connector for ignition module.
Old 06-14-2015, 11:43 PM
  #59  
ltoolio
Rennlist Member
 
ltoolio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Lisle, IL
Posts: 1,415
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Is that a wire w/o insulation at the red arrow?

Old 06-15-2015, 01:57 AM
  #60  
JobeJoe
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
JobeJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ltoolio
Is that a wire w/o insulation at the red arrow?

It appears so, but maybe that's how it is made? If you notice, that part of the wire is coming out of another wire that's splits into a Y. That unshielded part is one leg of the Y. Two wires into one essentially. I see how it would raise an eyebrow though. Maybe if someone else could take a look theirs as well, and maybe check on those vacuum hookups?


Quick Reply: Bad L-Jet?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 01:57 PM.