Bad L-Jet?
#46
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I am super excited.
So I started her up, initially ran at about 1100 rpms, then settle down to about 850 rpms.
After a few minutes, its barely idling, down to about 150 and almost stalling.
Sounds like MAF maybe? Any ideas?
So I started her up, initially ran at about 1100 rpms, then settle down to about 850 rpms.
After a few minutes, its barely idling, down to about 150 and almost stalling.
Sounds like MAF maybe? Any ideas?
#47
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car does not have MAF..... uses a simple barn door which swings in the wind. Aux air valve opens for cold start gradually closes over time. Maybe some one adjusted the idle speed screw ???
#48
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Maybe. I have plenty of time to find out. I am just elated to hear it run on its own. I bought it for $700, and it was sitting since atleast 2004. But for 700 to get my favorite Porsche, I could go out on that limb.
It needs so much more love. Interior in bad shape, exterior weathered. Windows don't work, instrument cluster gets no light, no interior lights save for the door panels, possible sending unit or fuel gauge failure, door and hatch locks frozen, brakes need to be hooked up and totally replaced, and I'm quite sure that's only scratching the surface and are minor repairs.
I just love these cars, and my budget just couldn't handle getting one in great shape.
It needs so much more love. Interior in bad shape, exterior weathered. Windows don't work, instrument cluster gets no light, no interior lights save for the door panels, possible sending unit or fuel gauge failure, door and hatch locks frozen, brakes need to be hooked up and totally replaced, and I'm quite sure that's only scratching the surface and are minor repairs.
I just love these cars, and my budget just couldn't handle getting one in great shape.
#49
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Just looking to learn....
(and great job sticking with it. Great to see you got it running!)
EDIT: Just saw the answer in your post here.
#51
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I know that black portion of the connector goes back to the actual oxygen sensor, the green side of that wire goes through the firewall and I lose sight of it from there. Do you know where that side goes in the engine compartment? Should a wire in this shape cause the problems I am having?
I will see if it starts again after work tonight. I did notice that my battery was weak before it ran, about 11.4V. I put in on the charger and am hoping that was the cause of it not wanting to run again.
But I will need to replace that wire, I'll get in touch with Roger and see what he has. I also posted a new thread about this wire, and if that sensor could really be responsible for my symptoms, because I am reading that many owners bypass this altogether without issue.
Thanks again all.
I will see if it starts again after work tonight. I did notice that my battery was weak before it ran, about 11.4V. I put in on the charger and am hoping that was the cause of it not wanting to run again.
But I will need to replace that wire, I'll get in touch with Roger and see what he has. I also posted a new thread about this wire, and if that sensor could really be responsible for my symptoms, because I am reading that many owners bypass this altogether without issue.
Thanks again all.
#52
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No. Your no-start, intermittent start issue is elsewhere.
If you're just going to keep cranking it over in blind hope of a different result, folks around here will feel less inclined to offer help. At this point, it is already very hard to help as you're not taking any technical notes..
For example, is your NOID light pulsing now? Was there an issue with the light? You have to diag these things if you want to isolate the issue. There are a number of reasons why the injectors wouldn't fire, or fire intermittently. With your willing effort, many of us here can help you eliminate those reasons one by one and actually lead you to the REAL issue.
I have referred to the WSM troubleshoot guide at least twice now. I've also attached a copy of it. You have indicated that you have a multimeter and a knowledge of how to use it, so why not use the diagnostic tools outlined in the WSM?
Do you realize that there is an ignition module that the green wire connects to? The module itself can fail. The L-jet relies on this module for its signal from the ignition. Though it isn't a very conclusive diagnostic, there is a test outlined in the AFC troubleshoot guide that may offer a lead as to whether this signal is being received or not.
If you're just going to keep cranking it over in blind hope of a different result, folks around here will feel less inclined to offer help. At this point, it is already very hard to help as you're not taking any technical notes..
For example, is your NOID light pulsing now? Was there an issue with the light? You have to diag these things if you want to isolate the issue. There are a number of reasons why the injectors wouldn't fire, or fire intermittently. With your willing effort, many of us here can help you eliminate those reasons one by one and actually lead you to the REAL issue.
I have referred to the WSM troubleshoot guide at least twice now. I've also attached a copy of it. You have indicated that you have a multimeter and a knowledge of how to use it, so why not use the diagnostic tools outlined in the WSM?
Do you realize that there is an ignition module that the green wire connects to? The module itself can fail. The L-jet relies on this module for its signal from the ignition. Though it isn't a very conclusive diagnostic, there is a test outlined in the AFC troubleshoot guide that may offer a lead as to whether this signal is being received or not.
#53
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No. Your no-start, intermittent start issue is elsewhere.
If you're just going to keep cranking it over in blind hope of a different result, folks around here will feel less inclined to offer help. At this point, it is already very hard to help as you're not taking any technical notes..
For example, is your NOID light pulsing now? Was there an issue with the light? You have to diag these things if you want to isolate the issue. There are a number of reasons why the injectors wouldn't fire, or fire intermittently. With your willing effort, many of us here can help you eliminate those reasons one by one and actually lead you to the REAL issue.
I have referred to the WSM troubleshoot guide at least twice now. I've also attached a copy of it. You have indicated that you have a multimeter and a knowledge of how to use it, so why not use the diagnostic tools outlined in the WSM?
Do you realize that there is an ignition module that the green wire connects to? The module itself can fail. The L-jet relies on this module for its signal from the ignition. Though it isn't a very conclusive diagnostic, there is a test outlined in the AFC troubleshoot guide that may offer a lead as to whether this signal is being received or not.
If you're just going to keep cranking it over in blind hope of a different result, folks around here will feel less inclined to offer help. At this point, it is already very hard to help as you're not taking any technical notes..
For example, is your NOID light pulsing now? Was there an issue with the light? You have to diag these things if you want to isolate the issue. There are a number of reasons why the injectors wouldn't fire, or fire intermittently. With your willing effort, many of us here can help you eliminate those reasons one by one and actually lead you to the REAL issue.
I have referred to the WSM troubleshoot guide at least twice now. I've also attached a copy of it. You have indicated that you have a multimeter and a knowledge of how to use it, so why not use the diagnostic tools outlined in the WSM?
Do you realize that there is an ignition module that the green wire connects to? The module itself can fail. The L-jet relies on this module for its signal from the ignition. Though it isn't a very conclusive diagnostic, there is a test outlined in the AFC troubleshoot guide that may offer a lead as to whether this signal is being received or not.
#54
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To answer your question, Kiln, the noid light never did pulse. Which is weird, maybe the left bank is not getting pulse, but it seem to be running on more than 4 cylinders. I thought perhaps the noid light was dead at that point, as it is a rented set.
I do remember reading that if one injector goes down, they all do, so that theory is up in the air.
But like you said, I will follow the rest of the WSM steps before asking anymore questions.
Just to note, I got sidetracked going through the WSM previously as one of my grounds bolts above the panel, no longer tightens, so I started working on that, leading to finding the o2 connector in the shape it is. So please don't think I'm not using your advice, I just keep finding things during that process that should be addressed.
I do remember reading that if one injector goes down, they all do, so that theory is up in the air.
But like you said, I will follow the rest of the WSM steps before asking anymore questions.
Just to note, I got sidetracked going through the WSM previously as one of my grounds bolts above the panel, no longer tightens, so I started working on that, leading to finding the o2 connector in the shape it is. So please don't think I'm not using your advice, I just keep finding things during that process that should be addressed.
#55
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So I'm going to dive in and finish measuring the resistance readings this evening. I checked the plug going to the ignition module, and all of the wires and connectors look great. But the rubber grommet that goes over the connector as it plugs into the module, looks like it may have vacuum lines above and below the connector. The small rubber tunes coming out of the rubber piece were brittle and snapped, but I don't see any loose vacuum lines in the vicinity. The diagram I have only shows the electrical layout, so I'm unsure if there is supposed to be air lines going in to the module.
#56
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So I'm going to dive in and finish measuring the resistance readings this evening. I checked the plug going to the ignition module, and all of the wires and connectors look great. But the rubber grommet that goes over the connector as it plugs into the module, looks like it may have vacuum lines above and below the connector. The small rubber tunes coming out of the rubber piece were brittle and snapped, but I don't see any loose vacuum lines in the vicinity. The diagram I have only shows the electrical layout, so I'm unsure if there is supposed to be air lines going in to the module.
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#60
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It appears so, but maybe that's how it is made? If you notice, that part of the wire is coming out of another wire that's splits into a Y. That unshielded part is one leg of the Y. Two wires into one essentially. I see how it would raise an eyebrow though. Maybe if someone else could take a look theirs as well, and maybe check on those vacuum hookups?