JobeJoe

I pulled the fuse panel back while troubleshooting no injector pulse on the noid light. I had a feeling things were ugly.

Need some help here, found some really bad fried wires in the harness going to position J on the lower portion of the panel. Also found more damage leading towards center console. I'm trying to look up what the J connector handles, but maybe my brain is fried at this point too, not finding anything specific.






Those three connectors were found to be unplugged. Also some very fried wires again. Still trying to identify their purpose.

I've already replaced the relays for XVI, XVII, and X. Brand new green wire installed and replaced the battery ground. Put in a good gas tank and verified fuel flow.

I'm wondering if the fried wires to left of the fuse panel that lead behind the dash are related to the factory alarm and door lock circuit. I do not have the red key, or the master key that deactivates the alarm. Didn't come with car unfortunately.

Any quick insight would be very helpful.

Alan

Here:

J1 = HVAC Blower Switch
J2 = Evap Freeze Switch
J3 = Engine Light
J4 = HVAC Blower Relay
J5 = Instrument Lights
J6 = HVAC DEF Relay Coil
J7 = Unused (but links to V6 - also unused)
J8 = HVAC Blower Motor

The unplugged connectors appear to be for the window & sunroof switches.

Alan

ltoolio

With the white one looking to be the rear wiper switch.

GlenL

You need manuals and to learn to read the schematics. These are available for download on the internets and in bittorrent.

There are unfused wires that feed 12V around the car. Short one of those and you fry the wires. I suggest fixing that for the wires that are fried by connecting the circuit through a currently-unused fuse.

Get some Deoxit spray and apply to the connections while you've got the panel out.

JobeJoe

Thanks guys, I eventually found the right diagram. Hard to read but I figured it out. I guess I know why my instrumentation lights do nothing, I was hoping I found the culprit for my missing injector pulse.

Like I said, I replaced the green wire, cleaned grounds. But when cranking, I tried a noid on two different injectors and not even getting a dim light.

I'm told another culprit could be factory alarm being triggered and shutting down injector pulse as well.

JobeJoe

Just some quick findings, checked voltage on a random fuel injector:

Injector to passenger cam cover, key off, 290 mV, basically nada

Injector to cam cover ground (above C&H), key off, 290 mV

Injector to cam cover ground (above O), key off, 390 mV

Injector to cam cover, key on, 12V

Injector to cam cover ground (above C&H) key on, 390 mV

Injector to cam cover ground (above 0) key on, 12V.

Based on this, something is way off. I should get 12V to any injector prong with the key off, correct?

Can I jump the ground from C&H to the O temporarily to see if I can get a noid light to flash?