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Belt interchange facts?

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Old 06-09-2015, 09:03 PM
  #16  
WALTSTAR
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Picture of the car.
Old 06-09-2015, 09:13 PM
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James Bailey
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Oh my ! someone stole your wheels !!
Old 06-09-2015, 09:29 PM
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Mrmerlin
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Holy shmoly.........they also stole your jackstands.


If that green wire is ziptied to the cross brace,
I would figure out a way to run it along the engine harness,
so it will be out of the hot air blast, the wire will last longer,
and with no zipties , they wont crush the insulation.

Please, Get some proper jackstands to support the car.
otherwise your life may be in danger
Old 06-10-2015, 08:54 AM
  #19  
69gaugeman
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Please, Get some proper jackstands to support the car.
otherwise your life may be in danger
Really? Those blocks are plenty stable.

Jack stands have been known to fail too. Best you never work on your car at all.
Old 06-10-2015, 08:02 PM
  #20  
WALTSTAR
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I see that I have to retain my sense of humor....... I actually lost it for a while dealing with the after effects of my wife's brain surgery, so forgive my occasional dryness.
I don't use jack stands as I have experienced a failure just after getting out from under my sisters Grand Prix ( the boat) in the past and have had steel ramps fold. Anything man made is bound to have imperfections. If buildings and ships are shored up on blocks, a car is not going to be a problem supported on 6x6 and 4x4 blocks.
As far as the green wire, I would rather it be up and away from the engine than bound to it where it would suffer radiant heat and the insulation would get baked to a crisp. The zip ties aren't that tight, by the way.
Old 06-10-2015, 08:25 PM
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mark kibort
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Originally Posted by WALTSTAR
If I actually turn it "a couple of times" from where it is, it will have been on the timing marks three different revolutions. And yes, I am a Chevy, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Honda, Cadillac, and Four Winns mechanic as well as an Architect/ Engineer and Marksman.
you will find it on the inside. easy to miss it if the belt is covering the sprocket shifted to the inside. take a broad flat screwdriver and lever the belt back so you can see the part that was shown on the picture earlier. again, its at 0 degrees and its on an odd number of rotations (TDC #1 cylinder on intake stroke)

yeah, dont use square belt.....not a good idea. I have a few good used belts if you want to put on on for free.
Old 06-10-2015, 08:39 PM
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WALTSTAR
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I appreciate the offers. I have all the parts I need except for a flywheel holding tool. I was thinking of rigging something through the clutch wear viewport. I will find the marks and get it done.
Old 06-10-2015, 08:48 PM
  #23  
WALTSTAR
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You know, I had a thought. What if I mark one belt tooth and The respective cam slot, did the same on the crank gear, transfer the marks to the new belt, and installed the new belt marks on the cam and crank marks? Done this way, it wouldn't matter where the cam or crank are. I did this on a Pontiac and it worked perfectly.
Old 06-10-2015, 08:53 PM
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James Bailey
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That assumes the timing was done right the last time.....not always a good assumption but yes the car would still run....More than one "professional" shop has done it with cheater marks just to avoid figuring it out...anything to save time for flat rate mechanics.
Old 06-10-2015, 08:59 PM
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depami
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That may work but you need to know that working on these cars is unlike anything on your list.

It's best to find the marks.

I'd be inclined to pull the #1 plug and find compression stroke then watch cam sprockets and harmonic balancer for marks as you approach TDC.
Old 06-10-2015, 10:11 PM
  #26  
WALTSTAR
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I think it's a safe assumption being that it's just as it left the factory in 1984. I've had it since 1997 and never even registered it. Once again, just looking to see what is thought about it because I will use "cheater" marks to supplement my finding and using the factory marks. That should be more than the standard, right? Having worked on this car slowly and recently much more intensely, I know they are unique and love the build quality and logic.
Old 06-10-2015, 10:25 PM
  #27  
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So the car's an '84.

Supposedly non interference so make your marks, take off the belt, turn the cams to look for marks.

If found, use them. If not, use yours.
Old 06-10-2015, 11:29 PM
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James Bailey
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Originally Posted by WALTSTAR
I think it's a safe assumption being that it's just as it left the factory in 1984. I've had it since 1997 and never even registered it. .......
Highly unlikely to be the original belt....that would have been 13 years BEFORE you got it.... well beyond normal replacement intervals. The dealer would have been pimping it at 5-6 years max. Water pumps rarely last that long.
Old 06-11-2015, 12:22 PM
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A lot of assumptions here. The car sat unused for years before I got it.
Who says that it ever went to the dealer for belt or pump change? I can't make that assumption and I am the owner. The car was driven for maybe 8 years since new and is very low mileage at less than 60,000
Old 06-13-2015, 01:51 AM
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Given the very high cost of a new 928 and the lack of knowledge information about the car...they tended to go back to the dealer it was after all initially under warranty. Now after a couple very expensive service visits some people literally parked the cars as being too expensive to fix...Remember too that most dealers thought it was an interference motor just like the 944 and routinely scared the hell out of 928 owners about bending all the valves...but who knows the history of your car ?? The dealers also were selling water pump replacements for just minor seepage out the drain hole on the pump snout so Porsche issued a special tech bulletin that such repairs WERE not covered under warranty....


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