Rare Bumper Plug
#17
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It sounds so easy to get these 3D printed but alas not so. Fine if you want to make 4 for yourself and you have a small 3D printer.
I wanted to have between 100 & 1000 made depending on price. Remember the current but old Porsche price was about $17 but probably 8 to 10 years out of date.
Price is all about finish and I wanted to get feedback from potential buyers on what is acceptable. Having had the part drawn in STL I have passed to various companied for quotes.
The attached picture shows two finishes.
The ringed black piece shows a 3D finish which is not smooth. However it is Black as were the originals.
The white piece is smooth but only available in white. Finished item would be primed and painted black.
Which would you prefer??????????????? Thoughts please?
I wanted to have between 100 & 1000 made depending on price. Remember the current but old Porsche price was about $17 but probably 8 to 10 years out of date.
Price is all about finish and I wanted to get feedback from potential buyers on what is acceptable. Having had the part drawn in STL I have passed to various companied for quotes.
The attached picture shows two finishes.
The ringed black piece shows a 3D finish which is not smooth. However it is Black as were the originals.
The white piece is smooth but only available in white. Finished item would be primed and painted black.
Which would you prefer??????????????? Thoughts please?
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#20
Rennlist Member
I would have a slight preference for the black piece. The white is nice that it is smooth, but my thoughts are that to make it black you will need to sand it with some 300 grit to get the primer to stick to the smooth surface and even if you didn't you would periodically hit it with touchup paint to take care of road chips. Seems like ongoing maintenance
On the other hand, if you had the black one, they would either remain black and textured to be installed as is, or if you wanted them smooth, you would still sand it, prime it and paint it. It does not seem like the white really offers any time savings unless you just want to color it with black sharpie. Of course if the white is substantially cheaper maybe the tradeoff is worth it.
In either case I'm down for a set when the final decision is made.
On the other hand, if you had the black one, they would either remain black and textured to be installed as is, or if you wanted them smooth, you would still sand it, prime it and paint it. It does not seem like the white really offers any time savings unless you just want to color it with black sharpie. Of course if the white is substantially cheaper maybe the tradeoff is worth it.
In either case I'm down for a set when the final decision is made.
#21
Rennlist Member
Roger,
The polyjet part will not hold up long term outside. If you want to print these, look at using the SLS method with a nylon powder. You can get online quotes from materalize or shapeways.
Printing at home via FDM wont work. Those arms will break off. It took a lot of trial and error to make printable manual shift **** caps, and I designed those to be made in 4 pieces and snap/glue together to try and keep the arms strong enough.
That part should be inexpensive to injection mold in china if you wanted a big bag of them. Last time I had a mold made in china in a similar size, it was about $3k and there was a 2000piece minimum at $0.90 each.
If you wanted to try state-side, you may want to check protolabs. They do small run injection molding.
Regards,
Hans
The polyjet part will not hold up long term outside. If you want to print these, look at using the SLS method with a nylon powder. You can get online quotes from materalize or shapeways.
Printing at home via FDM wont work. Those arms will break off. It took a lot of trial and error to make printable manual shift **** caps, and I designed those to be made in 4 pieces and snap/glue together to try and keep the arms strong enough.
That part should be inexpensive to injection mold in china if you wanted a big bag of them. Last time I had a mold made in china in a similar size, it was about $3k and there was a 2000piece minimum at $0.90 each.
If you wanted to try state-side, you may want to check protolabs. They do small run injection molding.
Regards,
Hans
#22
Rennlist Member
I have recently had to partially remove the rear bumper cover due to a total botch job from a local body shop on a tail light replacement....seriously...instead of using the plugs for tail light wires they spliced everything together. Plus, than 2 weeks later the light assembly was hanging in there by a single mounting point. This was after 3k and 4 months...with the car being taken back after 2 months and the body shop had to be threatened by the Insurance Company with material breach before they'd do anything...
The plugs on the back bumper cover give access to the bolts that attach the aluminum reinforcement bar (which is part of the rear bumper cover) to the car. If you want to get the bumper cover loose, you have to remove those plugs to get to it...they don't like to go back in easily..I ruined a used one I bought completely so I have one on DR side only...
The plugs on the back bumper cover give access to the bolts that attach the aluminum reinforcement bar (which is part of the rear bumper cover) to the car. If you want to get the bumper cover loose, you have to remove those plugs to get to it...they don't like to go back in easily..I ruined a used one I bought completely so I have one on DR side only...
#24
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Roger-- Remind me of the hole size that these plugs fit in the bumper please.
I bought some "chassis plugs" from a place in Cali that has them in 1/16" increments for the aerospace guys. I bought 50 to use as hole plugs/covers for the floor tile in the garage for the MaxJax lift when it isn't in use. Keeps stuff from falling in, plus looks a lot nicer than holes in my otherwise-immaculate porcelain tile garage floor.
There are also not-exact-match rubber grommet-style plugs, dull charcoal grey instead of the semi-glossy black matte plastic dome on the original.
I bought some "chassis plugs" from a place in Cali that has them in 1/16" increments for the aerospace guys. I bought 50 to use as hole plugs/covers for the floor tile in the garage for the MaxJax lift when it isn't in use. Keeps stuff from falling in, plus looks a lot nicer than holes in my otherwise-immaculate porcelain tile garage floor.
There are also not-exact-match rubber grommet-style plugs, dull charcoal grey instead of the semi-glossy black matte plastic dome on the original.
#26
Administrator - "Tyson"
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On this same note...something to cover the windshield wiper holes in the hatch would be cool.
#28
Drifting
#29
Three Wheelin'
The only other source I've found is Sears Hardware. They have stainless steel plugs that will fit with a little trimming of the inside diameter of the bumper cover (because the plugs have about 10 retainer clips instead of 3). Should look pretty good since the car is metallic gold / pearl with silver cup 4 wheels, but I'm holding off and only as a LAST resort.
Thanks, Joel
#30
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Hi Joel - I just completed the trial installation - fitting and removal in cold weather - of the finished product. These are black as per factory and worked perfectly.
I will issue a new product announcement in the next couple of days.
I will issue a new product announcement in the next couple of days.