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Brian...I did not realize you had the upside down one! That is the one made out of unobtanium. I have one, I was planing on installing one of these years, when I find my replacement lines.....I can bring to SITM, if it will help you....
Per our conversation earlier...I reconfigured with the later one, that Roger sells....
Thanks Dave. It is the accumulator. I have removed it and the filter as one pc. I have ordered a new accumulator. In the mean time, I am going to take the assembly to a local hose builder that can make a bypass to run until the accumulator arrives.
I have three different types of hose on the shelf but I think only one is rated high enough for this application (choline). The filter has a nice fitting that I am hoping that he can duplicate and then just use a male/male adapter and clamps for the top side/feed line. Bypass both items until the parts come in. Slight chance it will arrive by Thursday but no guarantees. Just need a plan B.
Oh well, I guess you're fooked for the moment. You can continue to troubleshoot without that but running on a trip without it you may struggle with vapor lock when you stop. There's a lot of heat under a shark hood.
No luck on having a bypass hose made locally. I had hoped to find the proper adapters to have it be plug and play, and fully reversible.
I am now on the hunt for a local used accumulator, or a local owner that is not going to sharks in the mountains that will let me borrow their set up for a few days.
No luck so far.
Make sure your vac lines are all hooked up right and not leaking. This is more important on a CIS car than on any other. I often joke that a CIS rebuild usually just involves new vac lines. Make sure the distributor is hooked to port vacuum, not manifold vacuum.
Go back through the ignition troubleshooting that I linked above to make sure that all is well there.
If, after this, you can get it to run stable at 3K RPM with the distributor hose blocked, set the timing to spec.
Someone check me on this -- IIRC you don't want to fool with the idle mix unless you know it's off -- once set it rarely needs to be touched to solve a problem. If you've never touched it, don't. If you're sure that it's off, I think you can get it close by jumpering the fuel pump, turn the mixture screw out until the injectors stop singing, turn it back until they just start to sing again, then very carefully back until they stop. If you can get it on the first try great but most of the time you will overshoot so you'll have to go back and forth. To really set it right you need a CO meter.
If you continue to have problems, try checking for leaks around the lower plenum where the upper and lower halves join. Also check the center boot and other 8 boots on the upper plenum. You can make sure the EGR is operating by applying vacuum with the car running, it should change tone.
Might be time for a FD rebuild......made a world of difference on mine.
That is the goofy part of this whole thing. I am giving/trading this engine and all of it components that are not needed to my buddy that is rebuilding the ROW motor. In a month, this engine and this intake will be sitting on a shelf somewhere, God willing.
I just really wanted to drive this to SITM this year. It has been a long while since I have been. Life changes, car changes and completely tearing this one apart have prevented me from going for SEVERAL years. Now I feel like I have a reason to go and .......... it looks like it is not going to happen.
06-02-2015, 11:19 PM
Make sure the distributor is hooked to port vacuum, not manifold vacuum.
