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I've been searching pelican parts and a few other sites for a replacement line pictured below.
I'm sure Roger has one, and I'll order one if my local Porsche shop doesn't have it.. But a part number or something would go along way!
The stubborn little nut wouldnt break loose. Day after day of wd40 rust breaker still didnt help. Flare wrenches, regular wrenches, and by the time the nut was chewed, even a monkey wrench wouldnt break it loose. Head scratcher....
this looks ugly if you not swapping in a new fuel pump then I suggest to to also order a check valve and 3 sealing washers along with a new fuel filter and short hard line.
NOTE apply a lil dab of PTFE pipe sealant to the threads of the check valve then install a new washer and it into the pump,
make it tight to the pump then add the other two sealing rings,
dont make the cap nut too tight as you will deform the hard line end and it will leak
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this looks ugly if you not swapping in a new fuel pump then I suggest to to also order a check valve and 3 sealing washers along with a new fuel filter and short hard line.
NOTE apply a lil dab of PTFE pipe sealant to the threads of the check valve then install a new washer and it into the pump,
make it tight to the pump then add the other two sealing rings,
dont make the cap nut too tight as you will deform the hard line end and it will leak
Everything is ugly on this old 928. So much work left.. But I'm a glutton for punishment on my little projects. The seals dont look all that bad but its a good idea to order them. I'm waiting to see if the pump is just not putting out the psi needed, but it comes on and sends good flow from the eye check. I'll swap if out if needed. I'm just trying not to spend too much $$ all at once.
I have the fuel filter on order, should have arrived today, kinda why I dug into trying to get that line disconnected. Quite unsuccessful on that side. Gotta love the USPS here, had 3 parts out for delivery today (green wire, another relay, and the fuel filter), should I be appreciative for 2 outta 3?
I have another thread going here about the fuel tank... Lots of work on this shark, and I need to hear it run!
Just get a new line and filter w/check valve. In fact, if i'm not mistaken don't OEM filters include a new check valve in the box? Either way looks like you need a new line. If you really want to save the check valve saw the line off flush at the nut, get an impact socket on it and use an impact on it while counterholding on the check valve flats, then remove the check valve from filter in the same way, counterholding at the flats on the filter end cap.
Just get a new line and filter w/check valve. In fact, if i'm not mistaken don't OEM filters include a new check valve in the box? Either way looks like you need a new line. If you really want to save the check valve saw the line off flush at the nut, get an impact socket on it and use an impact on it while counterholding on the check valve flats, then remove the check valve from filter in the same way, counterholding at the flats on the filter end cap.
No, the check valve threads into the fuel pump (fits between the fuel pump and the banjo end on that mangled hard line) not into the filter. Fuel filters do NOT include check valves.
As Merlin suggested get a bunch of crush washers and new check valve. The check valve should come with a set of crush washers. The thicker one goes between the body of the fuel pump and the check valve, the thinner ones go on either side of the banjo.
I went to the dealer and bought a new one when I replaced my pump and filter.
It had been rounded before I got in there and since I had to use vice grips I thought it was just better to replace it for next time.
The line cost $73.90 and was p/n 928 356 063 11
The dealer showed 3 different lines and the parts guy had no way to know which was right for my '82, we went off the shapes in the picture and ended up with the right one.
the check valve screws into the fuel pump,
then the sealing washers and hard line fits onto the check valve,
then the cap nut secures the whole thing.
NOTE add some anti seize compound to the B nut and the hard line that screws into the fuel filter this so it will come apart without rounding off the B nut.
NOTE dont over tighten the cap nut as you will crush the end of the hard line and then it will leak.
NOTE always use brand new sealing washers when fitting the cap nut,
if you dont then the chances are good that the hard line will leak,
then you will be temped to make the capnut tighter then see the previous note.
This assembly uses 3 sealing washers,
its a good idea to buy 6 when your ordering so you have a have a few tries or spares
PET clearly shows "80 and up" is that line...with something entirely not that clearly labed "Up to 79".
Probly available $20 cheaper via our suporting vendors too.
I don't know why he couldn't tell which line went with which car, I'm used to walking into a BMW dealer with a p/n in hand, I usually don't have the best luck working with parts desks. I've only owned a 928 for 7 months so I don't know the places to look and people to talk to.
05-30-2015, 09:46 PM
Good grief - frozen steel fuel line got butchered
