Good grief - frozen steel fuel line got butchered
06-01-2015, 01:46 AM
#16
Racer
06-01-2015, 03:09 AM
#18
Instructor
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06-01-2015, 09:30 AM
#19
Team Owner
yes it is, once the hose is off the threaded part,
then the nut under the hose is the check valve.
I suggest to put a small dab of PTFE thread sealant onto the threads of the new check valve then the sealing washer ,then make this tight to the pump.
The capnut will tightened to a lower torque so it wont crush the end.
Put a dab of antiseize on the end where the cap goes so it will come off easier
then the nut under the hose is the check valve.
I suggest to put a small dab of PTFE thread sealant onto the threads of the new check valve then the sealing washer ,then make this tight to the pump.
The capnut will tightened to a lower torque so it wont crush the end.
Put a dab of antiseize on the end where the cap goes so it will come off easier
06-01-2015, 03:54 PM
#20
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Follow all the guidance above for sure. The PTFE thread sealant means you'll get a seal with less torque on the check valve threads into the pump. Use anti-seize on the cap threads as Mr Merlin shares. I'll add that a thin film of the PTFE sealant on the washers helps a little. Hylomar is better, Loctite 574 is best. Then, and this is maybe the Most Important instruction, use your inch/lb torque wrench to correctly tighten the bolts and nuts and other plumbing pieces. Doing this by feel, the "that should be tight enough!" method, invariably leads to overtightened fittings and oftan causes leaks. And what do we do to try and stop banjo and washer leaks?? Do it right and the pieces will seal fine the first time, and you'll have no issues at all getting it apart next time. By then, the $73 connecting pipe will be $300, if it's still available.
Oh... a little carefull work with the clear spray-paint will keep that expensive line looking new and rustfree for a long time. Don't paint the sealing cfaces, and don't have gas leaks that will dissolve that paint too easily.
Oh... a little carefull work with the clear spray-paint will keep that expensive line looking new and rustfree for a long time. Don't paint the sealing cfaces, and don't have gas leaks that will dissolve that paint too easily.
06-11-2015, 01:27 AM
#21
Three Wheelin'
No, the check valve threads into the fuel pump (fits between the fuel pump and the banjo end on that mangled hard line) not into the filter. Fuel filters do NOT include check valves.
As Merlin suggested get a bunch of crush washers and new check valve. The check valve should come with a set of crush washers. The thicker one goes between the body of the fuel pump and the check valve, the thinner ones go on either side of the banjo.
As Merlin suggested get a bunch of crush washers and new check valve. The check valve should come with a set of crush washers. The thicker one goes between the body of the fuel pump and the check valve, the thinner ones go on either side of the banjo.