I hate working on my 928....
#1
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Installed rear main seal today. Well, probably installed it. Almost square and flush with the casing. Might be 1/4 of a mm less in on the top but cant get it further in. Used the old seal and a plastic hammer and the plastic hammer directly on the seal...small taps. Did not damage it.
But busted up my thumb. Why is everything so cramped on the 928?
Hope that the install od the clutch goes better.
Cheers,
Christian
But busted up my thumb. Why is everything so cramped on the 928?
Hope that the install od the clutch goes better.
Cheers,
Christian
#3
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I have a saying about working on my car - if my knuckles aren't bleeding, I'm not working!
#5
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Well, I still believe that no repair is really hard, it's the sequence of doing things that makes it hard. It can't have been too hard building the car fom scratch. It's just that all kinds of parts are blocking access to the part that needs fixing. Sorry, no offence meant. I think I took it too far by almost dismantling the complete car to gain access to that one part....
#6
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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#7
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Well, I still believe that no repair is really hard, it's the sequence of doing things that makes it hard. It can't have been too hard building the car fom scratch. It's just that all kinds of parts are blocking access to the part that needs fixing. Sorry, no offence meant. I think I took it too far by almost dismantling the complete car to gain access to that one part....
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#8
Chronic Tool Dropper
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In my limited experience, a rear main that is at all noticeably crooked in the housing will leak. The lip on the seal needs to have no axial deflection at all when the crank spins inside it. It also depends on a very thin layer of lubrication where that lip rides on the crank, so the back of the lip will scrape off any lubrication as it spins and cause it to fall off in drops.
There are probably a few creative ways to install the RMS straight. Tapping it in with a hammer is not one of those. Even a driver made from plastic pipe fittings will do, pushed with a pry or roll-head bar, or drawn in with the flex plate if it's an automatic. I confess that I haven't swapped a 928 RMS, but can claim bad results with other cars when I thought a marginal installation might be 'good enough'. Good enough to do over.
There are probably a few creative ways to install the RMS straight. Tapping it in with a hammer is not one of those. Even a driver made from plastic pipe fittings will do, pushed with a pry or roll-head bar, or drawn in with the flex plate if it's an automatic. I confess that I haven't swapped a 928 RMS, but can claim bad results with other cars when I thought a marginal installation might be 'good enough'. Good enough to do over.
#9
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Easy answer is to just lift the body off, and have all the mechanicals resting in a full factory jig, anytime you want easy access to everything. It would have been easier if I'd done that rather than taking mechanicals out item by item ... until I ended with just a body shell.
#11
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Well, I still believe that no repair is really hard, it's the sequence of doing things that makes it hard. It can't have been too hard building the car fom scratch. It's just that all kinds of parts are blocking access to the part that needs fixing. Sorry, no offence meant. I think I took it too far by almost dismantling the complete car to gain access to that one part....
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#12
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In my limited experience, a rear main that is at all noticeably crooked in the housing will leak. The lip on the seal needs to have no axial deflection at all when the crank spins inside it. It also depends on a very thin layer of lubrication where that lip rides on the crank, so the back of the lip will scrape off any lubrication as it spins and cause it to fall off in drops.
There are probably a few creative ways to install the RMS straight. Tapping it in with a hammer is not one of those. Even a driver made from plastic pipe fittings will do, pushed with a pry or roll-head bar, or drawn in with the flex plate if it's an automatic. I confess that I haven't swapped a 928 RMS, but can claim bad results with other cars when I thought a marginal installation might be 'good enough'. Good enough to do over.
There are probably a few creative ways to install the RMS straight. Tapping it in with a hammer is not one of those. Even a driver made from plastic pipe fittings will do, pushed with a pry or roll-head bar, or drawn in with the flex plate if it's an automatic. I confess that I haven't swapped a 928 RMS, but can claim bad results with other cars when I thought a marginal installation might be 'good enough'. Good enough to do over.
Will put all things together over weekend - flywheel is on but clutchpack still heavy and pointy without it. If I never post again you know what happened......
Thanks guys.
#13
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Well, the seal is seated square now....the car is tilted heavily, so I guess I would have seen a leak over the past few days if it was not seated right.
Will put all things together over weekend - flywheel is on but clutchpack still heavy and pointy without it. If I never post again you know what happened......
Thanks guys.
Will put all things together over weekend - flywheel is on but clutchpack still heavy and pointy without it. If I never post again you know what happened......
Thanks guys.
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If its not installed "true" to the Crank it will eventually leak.
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Note: there are two Brands of Seals, some are full rubber coated and some have metal showing (on the outside edge).
The ones w/the the metal showing need to be installed deeper into the block to ensure the "notch" is covered by the rubber.
#14
Three Wheelin'
#15
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