Back in the shark tank
04-24-2015, 06:05 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Back in the shark tank
In a few days, I will be the proud owner of another 88 S4 5-speed, after being sharkless for several years. One of my first projects will be an interior/guage LED upgrade. I've been going over Ed and Keith's threads about their efforts and trying to come up with a definitive list of bulbs, but am a little confused. Is there a document or list already for pre-digital dash S4's? I did this on my previous 88, but I believe LED bulb technology has advanced since then, so I want to get the best available products for this.
Ed's guide suggests B8.4d LED from superbrightled.com for the instrumentation, but his digital cluster is different than my 88. I think Keith's writeup was for his earlier car and he suggests #74 bulbs for the instrumention. Will the B8.4d be ok for instrumentation and illumination?
Ed's guide suggests B8.4d LED from superbrightled.com for the instrumentation, but his digital cluster is different than my 88. I think Keith's writeup was for his earlier car and he suggests #74 bulbs for the instrumention. Will the B8.4d be ok for instrumentation and illumination?
04-25-2015, 05:25 PM
#6
Welcome back stranger, glad to see you here.
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04-28-2015, 05:49 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the hearty re-welcome! It's great to be back.
I was a bit hesitant buying the car sight unseen, but I have enough experience with these cars that I felt comfortable in doing so and the price was pretty good.
The car was delivered today. Cosmetically, it's a bit rougher than I had hoped, but it's all soft bits and such. It starts easily, runs strong, and shifts smoothly, so I am quite happy with all that! I have found somebody to fix the tears in the front seats and re-dye for a good price. Dash and pod are severely cracked and need fixed at a later date.
There are some issues, of course, but I will be sorting them out asap. I am a little 928 rusty, so any comments/suggestions on the following will get me started quicker:
1. Passenger door won't open from outside, only inside. Handle seems a little loose, broken perhaps.
2. Hatch release does not work from either side. See fuse panel issues below.
3. Window switches don't work, either side. See fuse panel issues below.
4. Flag mirror adjusters don't work. See fuse panel issues below.
5. Gas gauge and Temp gause inop. They do jump and hold high if I turn the headlamps on", but fall back to zero soon.
6. Vin plate under hood is odd. ZZZ in the vin. Though at first it was a Euro vin, but IIRC, the ZZZ is just a placeholder. There is no VIN plate under the windshield and the one in the door sill is unreadable. The vin sticker in the back does jive with the seller's documentation.
7. Now, the fuse panel. As you see in the pic attached, there was a short in it. There are no fuses in 23-24-25 and they've wired in some toggle switch to 22, but I don't see a use for fuse 22. Maybe that should have been 23, since it's interior lights. How easy is it to repair the shorted out section?
I was a bit hesitant buying the car sight unseen, but I have enough experience with these cars that I felt comfortable in doing so and the price was pretty good.
The car was delivered today. Cosmetically, it's a bit rougher than I had hoped, but it's all soft bits and such. It starts easily, runs strong, and shifts smoothly, so I am quite happy with all that! I have found somebody to fix the tears in the front seats and re-dye for a good price. Dash and pod are severely cracked and need fixed at a later date.
There are some issues, of course, but I will be sorting them out asap. I am a little 928 rusty, so any comments/suggestions on the following will get me started quicker:
1. Passenger door won't open from outside, only inside. Handle seems a little loose, broken perhaps.
2. Hatch release does not work from either side. See fuse panel issues below.
3. Window switches don't work, either side. See fuse panel issues below.
4. Flag mirror adjusters don't work. See fuse panel issues below.
5. Gas gauge and Temp gause inop. They do jump and hold high if I turn the headlamps on", but fall back to zero soon.
6. Vin plate under hood is odd. ZZZ in the vin. Though at first it was a Euro vin, but IIRC, the ZZZ is just a placeholder. There is no VIN plate under the windshield and the one in the door sill is unreadable. The vin sticker in the back does jive with the seller's documentation.
7. Now, the fuse panel. As you see in the pic attached, there was a short in it. There are no fuses in 23-24-25 and they've wired in some toggle switch to 22, but I don't see a use for fuse 22. Maybe that should have been 23, since it's interior lights. How easy is it to repair the shorted out section?
04-28-2015, 06:08 PM
#9
My 88 had the two 30 amp fuses weld themselves and all the surrounding plastic together. Best guess was cheap Chinese fuses were the problem. My radiator fans ran constantly, even from a stone cold start up!
I replaced the entire CE panel with a used one from 928intl. Cleaned all the contacts with Deoxit, emory board and Stabilant. All new good fuses and relays. Worked like a charm! Not cheap, took a while to really do a good job cleaning things up, but so worth it. I had others say you can replace a "block" of the fuse tray, however it looked like more hassle than tossing a new CE panel at the problem!
Good Luck and congrats on the new purchase! Pics please!
Brian
I replaced the entire CE panel with a used one from 928intl. Cleaned all the contacts with Deoxit, emory board and Stabilant. All new good fuses and relays. Worked like a charm! Not cheap, took a while to really do a good job cleaning things up, but so worth it. I had others say you can replace a "block" of the fuse tray, however it looked like more hassle than tossing a new CE panel at the problem!
Good Luck and congrats on the new purchase! Pics please!
Brian
04-29-2015, 05:08 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
Does anyone know where I can get the replacement fuse block module for the damaged part in the picture? Fuse 21-25, if that matters? Used or otherwise.
04-29-2015, 09:41 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
928intl will have them - but you need to make sure its the exact same part number (the fuse blocks are all different, and vary across years too).
Have you pulled the whole panel out to check the back-side yet for burned wires? If there's much damage other than the fuse block, you might just want to buy a complete '88 panel to clean up and swap all your relays into.
Have you pulled the whole panel out to check the back-side yet for burned wires? If there's much damage other than the fuse block, you might just want to buy a complete '88 panel to clean up and swap all your relays into.
04-29-2015, 09:47 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Welcome back. Looks great with the Cup II wheels!
05-02-2015, 12:11 PM
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
Starting to sort out the electrical issues.
Tested power to window switches, all good and see power being sent back out when the switch is pressed. The sunroof works, so I think the relay is ok, but I jumped it to be sure, no luck. Next up, checking window motors.
Other than the damage to the fuse panel I showed earlier, I found some other wiring problems and have attached pics. The 5th CE plug, E, has a wire broken. I have circled it in the picture. I am not sure where the other end is. Also, there is a connector hanging to the left of the fuse panel with 2 cut wires, what is it for? and 3rdly, the previous owner spliced in a wire to the power of the hatch release, it goes back to the fuse panel area, but isn't connected to anything. Any thoughts?
Tested power to window switches, all good and see power being sent back out when the switch is pressed. The sunroof works, so I think the relay is ok, but I jumped it to be sure, no luck. Next up, checking window motors.
Other than the damage to the fuse panel I showed earlier, I found some other wiring problems and have attached pics. The 5th CE plug, E, has a wire broken. I have circled it in the picture. I am not sure where the other end is. Also, there is a connector hanging to the left of the fuse panel with 2 cut wires, what is it for? and 3rdly, the previous owner spliced in a wire to the power of the hatch release, it goes back to the fuse panel area, but isn't connected to anything. Any thoughts?