Check your ignition grounds!
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
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While my cam covers are off for TB project, I thought I would install new coil ground wires I bought a while back (I actually bought them by mistake, thinking they were engine grounds!).
The old RH (longer) ground cable was fine. But look what I found on the LH cable! I've opened up the gap slightly to show break, but it can only have had continuity as the cable is pushed tight against the connector on the cam. Once the allen bolt there was removed it opened up! Also the wires look cruddy so I don't think it's damage I could have done removing the cable.
Really glad I decided to change it as may have fractured at less convenient time. Worth checking that LH ground as mine was fitted with a tight curve on it that may have put the strain on the thick cable at the crimp.
The old RH (longer) ground cable was fine. But look what I found on the LH cable! I've opened up the gap slightly to show break, but it can only have had continuity as the cable is pushed tight against the connector on the cam. Once the allen bolt there was removed it opened up! Also the wires look cruddy so I don't think it's damage I could have done removing the cable.
Really glad I decided to change it as may have fractured at less convenient time. Worth checking that LH ground as mine was fitted with a tight curve on it that may have put the strain on the thick cable at the crimp.
#2
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If that is the ground from the coil case to the block, then I've been told that it's not really needed for the coil to work (coil is grounded through the case already) but it was an additional ground added to prevent interference. My experience supports this, as when I got my car, the driver's side cable wasn't even connected to the block (and reconnecting it didn't fix anything).
#3
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Obviously it's still good to fix it
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#4
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If that is the ground from the coil case to the block, then I've been told that it's not really needed for the coil to work (coil is grounded through the case already) but it was an additional ground added to prevent interference. My experience supports this, as when I got my car, the driver's side cable wasn't even connected to the block (and reconnecting it didn't fix anything).
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Dave K
#5
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Mine also had nearly reached that point - they're a little too short to deal with engine movement (or worn-out motor mounts). I made a longer wire and attached it to a more distant cam cover bolt, and with a loop to accommodate movement. That bolt was a lot easier to reach, too.
One of at least three redundant (?) grounding points to the engine.
One of at least three redundant (?) grounding points to the engine.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Yes it was a puzzle to reach the engine ground point, especially as it's angled towards left side of bay limiting choice of tool.
In the end (it was an Allen) I slid out coil from clamp to create room for a long Allen key, and put a little 5mm wrench on Allen shaft to break torque.
That's funny about the superfluous ground though! Learn something every day with 928s.
In the end (it was an Allen) I slid out coil from clamp to create room for a long Allen key, and put a little 5mm wrench on Allen shaft to break torque.
That's funny about the superfluous ground though! Learn something every day with 928s.