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Update.
It has become my daily driver. A few bugs to finish working out.
* Heat not producing. Easy fix. Either an air bubble or vacuum issue with controller.
* Leaking AC compressor..
* Speedometer not working.
I just did the timing belt tension recheck after about 1000 miles. It stretched a little but all looks to be tracking well with no surprises.
No oil consumption aside from a small leak at the OP sender.
No over heat issues. Normally runs just a tick over the first line and in adverse conditions to about the second line.
I had a high idle for a while and found the the TPS lock nut had allowed the tension to relax and keep the TPS open.
Idles steady at about 675.
Shifts appropriately.
Oil still looks good and will send out for an analysis next week.
* No leaks from rebuilt Power Steering rack or pump
* Torque tube has no vibe or sounds
* All custom rebuilt hoses and lines no leaks
* Odometer gear fix works, although speedo stopped.
* Updated Pod lights
* New brake lines
* No issues with the engine harness or Injector harness that I made.
I did have a few stumbles along the way, but most were self inflicted wounds.
Tires got flat spotted from sitting so long, so as soon as I burn the rest of the tread down, new shoes go on. That shouldn't take long.
My thanks to so many on here for the guidance and loaning of tools and experience and expertise.
Best part,
I picked my 16 YO son up at school and handed him the keys,
(He has his learners permit) in front of his friends. You would have thought I handed him a million $$.
Next project is a junk yard find of a 1992 968. This should be a walk in the park.
I had a "back of my mind' feeling you'd be ok, since I have now logged 25K miles as a DD since replacing my crushed and fractured flex plate,..
ps, I used the loctite method on the original clamp.
Well, here are the results...
I guess about what I expected..
I think a lot of the aluminum is residual from initial damage. I am hoping that the numbers will get a bit better after the next test.
Iron has me concerned..Piston bodies, crank/cams, wrist pins?
Due to the recent top end refresh and it is running well, I believe that the silicon may be residual from sealants, and not a vacuum issue.
All good information. I will begin to save up for the replacement engine, or weigh my options on whether to put in a LS1 or find another car to give life to.
Either way, I will continue to post the results so we have a documented history of its demise.
Iron is crankshaft or camshaft bits. You Phosphorus is a bit low, as is your zinc, so this might be contributing to your iron sloughing off the cam lobes. Common failing of Mobil 1 crap lube. Likely nothing to do with your thrust issue.
Note your fuel level in the oil is 4x over average. This is bad in many respects. There is a possibility that some of your emission parts are not doing their job. Or - you are driving it short trips?
Si is sky high so that's gobs of flashing material from the case web. It might stay that high for a while. If you want to spend a few bucks, and help your engine last for a bit longer, it would be valuable to invest in a remote mount full flow oil filter.
Or similar, no affiliation. These have particulate filters and take about 10% of the oil flow through the membrane. It will remove those light metals from the flow, and might keep the iron, Si, and Al in check to some extent. You are 'making metal' in there, so anything that will remove and trap it is a good thing. Also advise changing oil to a better zinc product. If you want to stay with Mobil 1, you can add ZDDP by using one of the aftermarket additives like ZDDP-Plus, Cam-Shield, etc.
10-26-2016 | 05:04 PM
That shouldn't take long.
