928 Pasche pattern formula?
#76
Rennlist Member
#77
Rennlist Member
I'm doing another study in Diamond Pascha, this one based on what might be called a 75 percent diamond. That is 75 percent as wide as it is tall. I think the pattern might fit the 928 seat cushion inserts a little better.
When I can get my son to help me with some of this I might even try another study at 60 percent.
The 75 percent is derived from the 3, 4, 5 right triangle. The 60 percent is derived from the combination of two equallateral triangles, except that actually results in about a 57.5 percent ratio, so I just rounded it up to make the numbers easier to plot.
When I can get my son to help me with some of this I might even try another study at 60 percent.
The 75 percent is derived from the 3, 4, 5 right triangle. The 60 percent is derived from the combination of two equallateral triangles, except that actually results in about a 57.5 percent ratio, so I just rounded it up to make the numbers easier to plot.
#78
Rennlist Member
Interesting idea, Ed. I hadn't thought of that myself. It does remind me of some of my past where I used to customarily do a jigsaw puzzle about once and year over the holidays. At one extreme the worst I ever tried was a puzzle depicting literally hundreds of jelly beans. I think I got the border done, but not much else. At the other extreme was one that I put together in about two weeks. I was amazed and proud of myself for doing it so quickly, especially since on the box it said "3 to 5 years."
#79
Rennlist Member
I'd buy one - just in time for the holidays! Make a great gift idea.
#80
Rennlist Member
Here is/are what my son drew up for me on his computer and printed. I'm not sure he had any easy way to darken the alternate diamonds, but I have figured out that for using the HTV with this project all I really need is the cut lines.
These patterns are diamonds, one in 75 percent, the same as the one I have been coloring in by hand, and the other one is 60 percent. I think I am going to be inclined to go with the 60 percent pattern for my seats in the Radical Custom, which is what I am working this up for.
These patterns are diamonds, one in 75 percent, the same as the one I have been coloring in by hand, and the other one is 60 percent. I think I am going to be inclined to go with the 60 percent pattern for my seats in the Radical Custom, which is what I am working this up for.
#82
Rennlist Member
Jerry,
We have an interest in a digital printing company and I can have this printed on vinyl if you would like. PM me if you are interested.
Regards,
Dave
We have an interest in a digital printing company and I can have this printed on vinyl if you would like. PM me if you are interested.
Regards,
Dave
#83
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Can your printer do this on fabric too? The challenges are a little greater, particularly around "managing" even tension on the fabric. If they can do it, it opens the door into the rarified and gap-riddled Pascha market.
#84
Rennlist Member
'I didn't intend to hijack the OP's thread or otherwise take it over, but I think at least some of the sillyness I have been posting relates to his original question. In short, I don't think there is a formula.
In regard to my design(s), what I had intended was maybe to create an alternate pattern for my own project that might be duplicated in a computer program that could then be used to print the pattern on leather. Then, when I Googled to find something about printing patterns on leather I found myself directed to the process of Heat Transfer Vinyl. My first thoughts about that was that I would need to print the pattern on the vinyl material and then somehow transfer that to my leather.
Then I kept wondering about how that would work with the printing on the face of the vinyl that would then need to be placed next to the leather for the transfer. I wondered just what kind of ink that would require. With some further research and thought about it I finally realized that I do not need the printing, but rather just cut the pattern into the transfer vinyl that is the color that I would have wanted to print it with to start with.
So, I find that I can obtain HTV suitable for transfer to leather and in the bright red that I am planning.
That works out very well because in having my Son put the pattern into a computer program that can be put in PDF, we find that it will be very difficult with his design program to "color in" the alternate blocks/diamonds in the pattern for printing, but the lines to cut the pattern are fairly easy, as shown in the pictures of the print outs he made for me.
When the pattern can be finalized in the correct width for my sign guy to run thru his digital cutter I can have him cut the strips of HTV with the pattern and then spend countless hours removing the alternate blocks that will leave the correct pattern to transfer. That process is called "weeding."
The HTV that I am looking at is said to be suitable for transfer to leather and the heat required is about 250 degrees F. I think it can be done with a typical iron, but I happen to have an old Mangle Iron that, if serviceable, might be most suitable for the process. I'll going to check that out later today.
In regard to my design(s), what I had intended was maybe to create an alternate pattern for my own project that might be duplicated in a computer program that could then be used to print the pattern on leather. Then, when I Googled to find something about printing patterns on leather I found myself directed to the process of Heat Transfer Vinyl. My first thoughts about that was that I would need to print the pattern on the vinyl material and then somehow transfer that to my leather.
Then I kept wondering about how that would work with the printing on the face of the vinyl that would then need to be placed next to the leather for the transfer. I wondered just what kind of ink that would require. With some further research and thought about it I finally realized that I do not need the printing, but rather just cut the pattern into the transfer vinyl that is the color that I would have wanted to print it with to start with.
So, I find that I can obtain HTV suitable for transfer to leather and in the bright red that I am planning.
That works out very well because in having my Son put the pattern into a computer program that can be put in PDF, we find that it will be very difficult with his design program to "color in" the alternate blocks/diamonds in the pattern for printing, but the lines to cut the pattern are fairly easy, as shown in the pictures of the print outs he made for me.
When the pattern can be finalized in the correct width for my sign guy to run thru his digital cutter I can have him cut the strips of HTV with the pattern and then spend countless hours removing the alternate blocks that will leave the correct pattern to transfer. That process is called "weeding."
The HTV that I am looking at is said to be suitable for transfer to leather and the heat required is about 250 degrees F. I think it can be done with a typical iron, but I happen to have an old Mangle Iron that, if serviceable, might be most suitable for the process. I'll going to check that out later today.
#85
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Jerry --
Visit with your son with an idea of making a filled rectangle (or diamond), creating a reusable block from it. Then insert the block with X/Y scale parameters that give you the pattern result you want. Absent that and maybe easier for your one-off, draw the grid lines on a non-printing and hen locked layer as guidelines, then drawing each filled polygon with associative corners at the intersections. This is a little more tedious but would be faster for the one-off. Either way, it's way easier to draw the guidelines squared up, then rotate the whole thing to 45º. With associative blocks he can alter the angles of the guidelines to whatever you want for diamond "skew", and the filled polygons will adjust to match.
Remember that he only needs to draw one of the quadrants. Then mirror-mirror to make the whole pattern.
Visit with your son with an idea of making a filled rectangle (or diamond), creating a reusable block from it. Then insert the block with X/Y scale parameters that give you the pattern result you want. Absent that and maybe easier for your one-off, draw the grid lines on a non-printing and hen locked layer as guidelines, then drawing each filled polygon with associative corners at the intersections. This is a little more tedious but would be faster for the one-off. Either way, it's way easier to draw the guidelines squared up, then rotate the whole thing to 45º. With associative blocks he can alter the angles of the guidelines to whatever you want for diamond "skew", and the filled polygons will adjust to match.
Remember that he only needs to draw one of the quadrants. Then mirror-mirror to make the whole pattern.
#86
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Denver Foothills, CO
Posts: 128
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There's a graphics programming language called GLE for generating graphs, which could be used to generate pasche. GLE can output EPS, PS, PDF etc.. The compiler runs on Windows, Mac and Linux.
http://glx.sourceforge.net
http://glx.sourceforge.net
#87
Rennlist Member
Dr. Bob,
"Can your printer do this on fabric too?"
No sir, not with our technology... What fun we could have if we could!
"Can your printer do this on fabric too?"
No sir, not with our technology... What fun we could have if we could!
#88
Rennlist Member
Thanks Dave for the offer. I still can't figure out how one would print on HTV and then put the printed side down to transfer to leather, or to anything, with the ink in between the vinyl and the subject material. Nevertheless, I think I am past that stage if I use vinyl that is already the color I would want to print. Then I only need the cut lines out of the computer.
And, thank you Dr Bob; that is an excellent suggestion. But, again, I think I am past the need to have the computer color in the alternate blocks of the pattern since all I think I am going to need is the cut lines, and then I will be weeding out the alternate blocks/diamonds myself.
Too, I have to wonder if I were to print the pattern on some kind of maybe clear vinyl, that would likely be with one machine, and then I would have to cut the lines, and that would be in another machine, so I can imagine just how much difficulty there would be to have the cuts exactly coincide with the pattern.
On another note, I now need to educate myself in respect to the difference in usefulness between vinyl that is PVC based and that which in PU (polyurathane?) based.
I checked the Mangle Ironer out and it seems to work both in heating up and in turning. And it looks like it is in very good condition, overall, especially for its age. The temperature to transfer vinyl to leather appears to be somewhere between 250F and about 300F, so I also need to see just how hot the Mangle will get. Research suggests that it will get to much hotter than that, on the highest setting, so it ought to work just fine. I'll check it out further with a temp gun.
And, thank you Dr Bob; that is an excellent suggestion. But, again, I think I am past the need to have the computer color in the alternate blocks of the pattern since all I think I am going to need is the cut lines, and then I will be weeding out the alternate blocks/diamonds myself.
Too, I have to wonder if I were to print the pattern on some kind of maybe clear vinyl, that would likely be with one machine, and then I would have to cut the lines, and that would be in another machine, so I can imagine just how much difficulty there would be to have the cuts exactly coincide with the pattern.
On another note, I now need to educate myself in respect to the difference in usefulness between vinyl that is PVC based and that which in PU (polyurathane?) based.
I checked the Mangle Ironer out and it seems to work both in heating up and in turning. And it looks like it is in very good condition, overall, especially for its age. The temperature to transfer vinyl to leather appears to be somewhere between 250F and about 300F, so I also need to see just how hot the Mangle will get. Research suggests that it will get to much hotter than that, on the highest setting, so it ought to work just fine. I'll check it out further with a temp gun.
#89
Rennlist Member
Bridget Riley - Movement in Squares, 1961
Maurice de Sausmarez: [...] Are these represented in your mind by proportional variation, or arithmetic series? For example, if you say 'Seven, three, one' that might represent a sort of sequence which controls an optical speed.
Bridget Riley: [...] one might think that I have selected a particular proportion, such as seven and three, because of some perfect relationship independent of sight, but I am in fact experimenting with visual tempi. [...] By the time I have decided upon seven and three, I have drawings pinned up around the studio showing other pairs of visual tempi from which I have chosen that particular one as being right for my purpose....
Bridget Riley: [...] one might think that I have selected a particular proportion, such as seven and three, because of some perfect relationship independent of sight, but I am in fact experimenting with visual tempi. [...] By the time I have decided upon seven and three, I have drawings pinned up around the studio showing other pairs of visual tempi from which I have chosen that particular one as being right for my purpose....
#90
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Carlos-- interesting reference! The pattern you show has the blocks changing size horizontal, with the same vertical sizes. Having it change in both seems to be key to the Pascha formula.
One day I'll just print a few of these examples on paper and just measure the blocks. Takes a little of the fun out of it but at this point "fun" isn' the real goal.
Thanks!
One day I'll just print a few of these examples on paper and just measure the blocks. Takes a little of the fun out of it but at this point "fun" isn' the real goal.
Thanks!