RyanPerrella

Bill

Again, many thanks!

I bought the set at homedepot ($19.88 nice) Promptly took the valve covers off the engine on the engine stand and had at those bolts, I had two that were stripped. At first i was bummed cause i couldnt get the removal tool to clear the cap itself, do with some persuasion with a deadblow and an impact screwdriver, i got the things to bite. Got both off pretty easily!

I am so glad i did this today as I had stalled on removing the heads on my original GT engine cause of those damn bolts. Well they are off, and so is the head. And wow, The other head I had no bent valves and on this side only 2 intake valves on cylinder 1.

Also I am shocked at how well the bores look on this engine (114,000 miles) there is carbon on the piston tops but the bores them selves are beautiful!

Thanks again as i am now back into tearing apart this engine!

Many new engine rebuilding posts and pictures to come.

Koenig928

No problem, glad it worked out!

Again, I still have pictures of the head tools I made if you're interested. Sounds like you're doing a complete tear down, if you have any questions let me know. I've learned a buttload from rebuilding the Koenig motor, lots of stuff the manuals dont explain so well. It can be a pain, but well worth it to take the time to do it right.

Back to installing the Sharktuner for me

RyanPerrella

Bill,

could you post pictures of the tools you ended up making and if you can give suggestions on how i can make them myself. I am curious about your valve seal tools, for removal and installation. If you could post pics of those and your experience in getting them together i would really appreciate that.

Thanks

BC

I didn't see this thread until today Ryan, Even though there were posts on the 2nd. I dremeled the heads of the allen bolts, and got them off with locking plyers and stuff. NO real science. If I had seen the stripped head removal tools above, I would have done that.

UKKid35

Hi Brendan, don't forget this thread from some time ago...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/104352-replacing-valve-seals.html

Koenig928

Here you go.

I tried to copy the WSM design on the valve compression part. You gotta be real careful when pressing down on them to get the valve stem keepers on/off, they're real stiff. Through trial and (mostly ) error, I made these and ended up working real well.

Ok, all materials came from Lowes/HomeDepot. I cut up pieces of 2x4's that fit on the ends of the heads, just eyeball measure and tweak to fit. Attach with the stock bolts. Then drilled a big hole down the middle for the center steel rod, use a thick one that won't bend. Now before I go further, do NOT just use the end pieces like this, they MUST be reinforced with something else to hold the pressure when you're cranking down on them, they will snap. (don't ask me how I found this out....ouch) I used steel punched rod, cut and bent over the ends for this.

Had some scrap copper pipe that I used for the lever. Cut a hole and slide over the center rod. You might need a second, longer piece to get leverage.

For the part that depresses the valve spring down, made it out of PVC pipe. Can't remember exact size right now, but used a "T", and end piece connected with a smaller dia. pvc inside. Use plently of PVC glue to hold it together. YOu might find your PVC separating at the joints as you press down on it, just glue it back together. Cut the openings out with a dremel tool, lots of trimming, fitting, trimming...

Hold the entire head down on a workbench, used large C-clamps with rubber on the exhaust side, and had to secure the intake side down with piece of wood and large wood screws, screwed into the workbench.

Now the biggest PITA was the tiny valve stem keepers. The pictures pretty much speak for themselves. You'll have to coordinate pressing down on the spring, and inserting keepers just right for them to fall into place around the stem. You'll have to put a small piece of rubber under the valves on the workbench, too - so the valve doesn't move down as you depress on it.

Koenig928

Valve stem keepers....

Koenig928

For the valve stem seals, made a little hand tool from copper pipe. I took a new seal with me to Lowes to match the outer seal lip to a pipe diameter. (since that's the part that gets pressed on) Then peiced together everthing else to fit around that. Found a PVC part that screwed onto the end of the copper connector, hacked that off so I could adjust the height when you install the valve seal.

The seals are designed to fit exactly on the tip of the valve guide, you dont want to press them on too far or too little. Before removing the old valve guides, measure the height they're at first, and set your tool to match that. Then you can reinstall the new ones and don't have to guess if they're on far enough.

Tony

Amazing!
Some cool tools Bill!...
Improvise..Adapt...Overcome

UKKid35

This is what I used



The problem is that it's very easy to damage the surface of the head, you can see a nick I made in the centre of this photo



Bill's solution is much more elegant, but if you don't want to make one yourself this is the commercially available version made by Sealey

Vilhuer

I used almost similar tool. To avoid damage I put tape over part which presses against valve plate.

Magnet works fine for taking out and puting back in valve stem keepers. When puting them back small drop of oil makes then stick to valve.

John Veninger

Yes, Tony's little device works very well when used with a standard valve spring compressor tool like this one:

Tony

Thats only becasue i didnt have the correct type of matchsticks

RyanPerrella

How about a tool to remove the valve stem seals? Or are these something you just need to use a little force on? I tried to get one off unsuccesfully and thought i would research it some more before breaking something.

as for installing the stem seals, the WSM suggests what i think have been refered to as "valve condoms" for installation, are these necessary? I have some ordered i think they are like $0.50, but i cant tell what they do from the WSM picture.

UKKid35

Valve Seal Pliers - requires persistent twist and pull action

Valve Condom and Seal pictured attached, you only need one (perhaps one spare one as well) as unlike most condoms they are re-usable.