Front ride height adjusters turning but height doesn't change
#47
Burning Brakes
when I checked ride height on my gts I discovered 2 important things:
-shocks were replaced.
-who replaced shocks was stupid and lazy so he put together everything without thinking about ride height, so I was lucky to get 159-162 at the rear unlucky to get 129-132mm at the front....
After 6-7 attempts with alignment each time, I determined that 165 rear and 173-174 front was the best compromise. went up to nominal values , but drive quality are pratically unchanged, also alignment shown differences next to nihil.
Francesco
-shocks were replaced.
-who replaced shocks was stupid and lazy so he put together everything without thinking about ride height, so I was lucky to get 159-162 at the rear unlucky to get 129-132mm at the front....
After 6-7 attempts with alignment each time, I determined that 165 rear and 173-174 front was the best compromise. went up to nominal values , but drive quality are pratically unchanged, also alignment shown differences next to nihil.
Francesco
#48
Rennlist Member
Mark, your thoughts make perfect sense for you and the way you use your car. I'm not arguing that. I don't track my car. I just used as daily driver for a lot of years. Most days that included getting into and out of my driveway without scraping, but only after the ride height was restored to 170mm in front. The streets I drove on included raingutters, where the car needed at least the 170mm front height to avoid scraping even at low speeds.
I recognize that you are the reigning king of track driving in norCal. My hat is off to you for that. Meanwhile, I do happen to know just a tiny bit about suspension design and geometry, including a shred of knowledge about the dynamics of steering under various body-roll and compression/extension conditions. You know a lot about your slammed 928 with stiff shocks and higher-rate springs that virtually no others use on their street cars.
The folks who are asking here are suffering from sagged springs with worn shocks, adjusters that are stuck together and loose on the tubes. Consider that as you shell out advice. You stick with advising on cars that have the same equipment and use conditions that your car enjoys. I'll work with the other 99% who's cars and setups are closer to original, except perhaps with sagging springs and worn shocks.
I recognize that you are the reigning king of track driving in norCal. My hat is off to you for that. Meanwhile, I do happen to know just a tiny bit about suspension design and geometry, including a shred of knowledge about the dynamics of steering under various body-roll and compression/extension conditions. You know a lot about your slammed 928 with stiff shocks and higher-rate springs that virtually no others use on their street cars.
The folks who are asking here are suffering from sagged springs with worn shocks, adjusters that are stuck together and loose on the tubes. Consider that as you shell out advice. You stick with advising on cars that have the same equipment and use conditions that your car enjoys. I'll work with the other 99% who's cars and setups are closer to original, except perhaps with sagging springs and worn shocks.
if all the components are old and worn (basically broken in my book) then yes, too low could cause some driving issues. but if it is in good shape, an " lower than stock, not only is better, but is how the euro cars are set up too. (for those playing at home,, 1" lower is 25.4mm, which takes the stock ride height from 180ish to 150ish.
Its not a big deal Bob, and things in the geometry do not change that drastically expecially with a street alignment.
another point is many of the "99%" of cars are aligned poorly which can make the cars handle strange... and stranger if lowered too, especially if not realigned after the lowering. simple checks for non -racers are easy and can confirm how the car is set up (toe and camber). and NO argument from me on ride height, if you have driveways to get up. that is a major nightmare for too low of a car, I know. no one on the street, except for me, would want to have their car as low as mine, I agree and deal with that sacrifice for track use. Others sacrifice for the lowered "look" when going down under the 150mm range.
between the both of us, we can help that 99% that we both seem to talk and reach here on the list. I understand the geometry dynamics as well. its effects on a worn 928 can be greater, but the benefits of a lower car for lowering the center of gravity and the look can offset any of the problems one might encounter. Like I said, I spent a lot of time setting up a street 6 liter with the basic upgraded suspension. it looks great and drives fantastic. It also does it at a ride height below 150mm and is by no means a racer. it is a street car, much softer than the current line of supercars from Porsche, aston martin, jaguar , and the American manufacturers. so, from that perspective, there is little downside for lowering the car except for the clearance issue of your driveway.
#49
Rennlist Member
when I checked ride height on my gts I discovered 2 important things:
-shocks were replaced.
-who replaced shocks was stupid and lazy so he put together everything without thinking about ride height, so I was lucky to get 159-162 at the rear unlucky to get 129-132mm at the front....
After 6-7 attempts with alignment each time, I determined that 165 rear and 173-174 front was the best compromise. went up to nominal values , but drive quality are pratically unchanged, also alignment shown differences next to nihil.
Francesco
-shocks were replaced.
-who replaced shocks was stupid and lazy so he put together everything without thinking about ride height, so I was lucky to get 159-162 at the rear unlucky to get 129-132mm at the front....
After 6-7 attempts with alignment each time, I determined that 165 rear and 173-174 front was the best compromise. went up to nominal values , but drive quality are pratically unchanged, also alignment shown differences next to nihil.
Francesco