Removing Brake Booster
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Removing Brake Booster
Hello,
1987 S4 Auto
Is it possible to remove the booster and master cylinder and reservoir as a unit, and then disassemble on the bench?
1987 S4 Auto
Is it possible to remove the booster and master cylinder and reservoir as a unit, and then disassemble on the bench?
#2
Rennlist Member
You need to remove the master and reservoir and then the booster. Trying to remove it as a unit would be a tight squeeze and would take way more time than removing them as separate units.
#4
Team Owner
to remove the booster you will need a piece of wood,
a paint stick doubled up is perfect with a hole drilled in it, a piece of fuel line,
and a screw clamp and a helper.
After the MC has been removed ,
Get your helper to press the pedal to the floor,
fit the 2 wood strips over the push rod on the booster,
NOTE the hole in the wood should just fit the booster push rod.
then press the fuel line onto the rod then clamp it.
The hose will hold the rod in the extended position without gouging its shank,
the wood will be the support so the face of the booster doesn't get scratched.
NOTE simply clamping a set of vice grips onto the booster push rod may permanently damage it .
A new booster is about 245.00
NOTE what you dont want to do is scratch the pushrod,
and or scratch the mating surface of the booster where brake master cylinder seats.
NOTE a leak will begin and the power effect of the booster will be lost.
Once the pushrod is secured,
then release the pedal,
then the remove the parcel tray,
then remove the clevis pin ,
and then undo the 4 nuts that anchor the booster.
NOTE a 12 in. long extension, and a universal joint,
and 13mm deep socket are great for this job.
NOTE fitting a booster is also best done by putting the pushrod into its extended position then clamping it
a paint stick doubled up is perfect with a hole drilled in it, a piece of fuel line,
and a screw clamp and a helper.
After the MC has been removed ,
Get your helper to press the pedal to the floor,
fit the 2 wood strips over the push rod on the booster,
NOTE the hole in the wood should just fit the booster push rod.
then press the fuel line onto the rod then clamp it.
The hose will hold the rod in the extended position without gouging its shank,
the wood will be the support so the face of the booster doesn't get scratched.
NOTE simply clamping a set of vice grips onto the booster push rod may permanently damage it .
A new booster is about 245.00
NOTE what you dont want to do is scratch the pushrod,
and or scratch the mating surface of the booster where brake master cylinder seats.
NOTE a leak will begin and the power effect of the booster will be lost.
Once the pushrod is secured,
then release the pedal,
then the remove the parcel tray,
then remove the clevis pin ,
and then undo the 4 nuts that anchor the booster.
NOTE a 12 in. long extension, and a universal joint,
and 13mm deep socket are great for this job.
NOTE fitting a booster is also best done by putting the pushrod into its extended position then clamping it
#5
Three Wheelin'
to remove the booster you will need a piece of wood,
a paint stick doubled up is perfect with a hole drilled in it, a piece of fuel line,
and a screw clamp and a helper.
After the MC has been removed ,
Get your helper to press the pedal to the floor,
fit the 2 wood strips over the push rod on the booster,
NOTE the hole in the wood should just fit the booster push rod.
then press the fuel line onto the rod then clamp it.
The hose will hold the rod in the extended position without gouging its shank,
the wood will be the support so the face of the booster doesn't get scratched.
NOTE simply clamping a set of vice grips onto the booster push rod may permanently damage it .
A new booster is about 245.00
NOTE what you dont want to do is scratch the pushrod,
and or scratch the mating surface of the booster where brake master cylinder seats.
NOTE a leak will begin and the power effect of the booster will be lost.
Once the pushrod is secured,
then release the pedal,
then the remove the parcel tray,
then remove the clevis pin ,
and then undo the 4 nuts that anchor the booster.
NOTE a 12 in. long extension, and a universal joint,
and 13mm deep socket are great for this job.
NOTE fitting a booster is also best done by putting the pushrod into its extended position then clamping it
a paint stick doubled up is perfect with a hole drilled in it, a piece of fuel line,
and a screw clamp and a helper.
After the MC has been removed ,
Get your helper to press the pedal to the floor,
fit the 2 wood strips over the push rod on the booster,
NOTE the hole in the wood should just fit the booster push rod.
then press the fuel line onto the rod then clamp it.
The hose will hold the rod in the extended position without gouging its shank,
the wood will be the support so the face of the booster doesn't get scratched.
NOTE simply clamping a set of vice grips onto the booster push rod may permanently damage it .
A new booster is about 245.00
NOTE what you dont want to do is scratch the pushrod,
and or scratch the mating surface of the booster where brake master cylinder seats.
NOTE a leak will begin and the power effect of the booster will be lost.
Once the pushrod is secured,
then release the pedal,
then the remove the parcel tray,
then remove the clevis pin ,
and then undo the 4 nuts that anchor the booster.
NOTE a 12 in. long extension, and a universal joint,
and 13mm deep socket are great for this job.
NOTE fitting a booster is also best done by putting the pushrod into its extended position then clamping it
I ended up laying on the seat with my legs on a chair outside the car. How do you position yourself in the car when you do your pedal work?
Is there a secret you can bestow?
#6
Rennlist Member
You could have it worse and have an early car with the brake bias valves mounted underneath so you have 4 more hard to get to lines to remove.
Trending Topics
#8
Team Owner
it would also help if the car is on jack stands about 24 inches off the ground,
move the seat all the way back,
then you can kneel and easily lean into the footwell,
place a towel folded a few times on the door sill
and a put the footwell carpet under your knees,
yes you still have to remove the parcel tray.
move the seat all the way back,
then you can kneel and easily lean into the footwell,
place a towel folded a few times on the door sill
and a put the footwell carpet under your knees,
yes you still have to remove the parcel tray.
#10
Pro
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Foxboro,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
to remove the booster you will need a piece of wood,
a paint stick doubled up is perfect with a hole drilled in it, a piece of fuel line,
and a screw clamp and a helper.
After the MC has been removed ,
Get your helper to press the pedal to the floor,
fit the 2 wood strips over the push rod on the booster,
NOTE the hole in the wood should just fit the booster push rod.
then press the fuel line onto the rod then clamp it.
The hose will hold the rod in the extended position without gouging its shank,
the wood will be the support so the face of the booster doesn't get scratched.
NOTE simply clamping a set of vice grips onto the booster push rod may permanently damage it .
A new booster is about 245.00
NOTE what you dont want to do is scratch the pushrod,
and or scratch the mating surface of the booster where brake master cylinder seats.
NOTE a leak will begin and the power effect of the booster will be lost.
Once the pushrod is secured,
then release the pedal,
then the remove the parcel tray,
then remove the clevis pin ,
and then undo the 4 nuts that anchor the booster.
NOTE a 12 in. long extension, and a universal joint,
and 13mm deep socket are great for this job.
NOTE fitting a booster is also best done by putting the pushrod into its extended position then clamping it
a paint stick doubled up is perfect with a hole drilled in it, a piece of fuel line,
and a screw clamp and a helper.
After the MC has been removed ,
Get your helper to press the pedal to the floor,
fit the 2 wood strips over the push rod on the booster,
NOTE the hole in the wood should just fit the booster push rod.
then press the fuel line onto the rod then clamp it.
The hose will hold the rod in the extended position without gouging its shank,
the wood will be the support so the face of the booster doesn't get scratched.
NOTE simply clamping a set of vice grips onto the booster push rod may permanently damage it .
A new booster is about 245.00
NOTE what you dont want to do is scratch the pushrod,
and or scratch the mating surface of the booster where brake master cylinder seats.
NOTE a leak will begin and the power effect of the booster will be lost.
Once the pushrod is secured,
then release the pedal,
then the remove the parcel tray,
then remove the clevis pin ,
and then undo the 4 nuts that anchor the booster.
NOTE a 12 in. long extension, and a universal joint,
and 13mm deep socket are great for this job.
NOTE fitting a booster is also best done by putting the pushrod into its extended position then clamping it
Cheers,