I don't think my coolant is circulating!!! I Have new radiator and thermostat. The engine is exceeding normal temperature range and coolant comes out of the over flow tube on the reservoir.

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Did you replace the internal water bridge seal which the thermostat seals against?

 

Same thing happened to me. Coincidentally when the expansion tank, thermostat, and radiator were all changed out, my water pump seized....

 

OP why did you change these parts>

 

My radiator developed a leak, so I purchased a all aluminum new one from 928 international. I performed the the installation and filled the system and it didn't seem to be circulating so I installed a new thermostat. My son added stop leak before I changed the radiator. I don't know if this clogged the system somewhere.

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Possible that you have an air pocket trapped in there.

Or you got a faulty out of the box thermostat, but I'd lean more towards an air pocket. Did you bleed it?

 

I didn't bleed the system. What is the procedure for that ?

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Do you have heat?
If not there is air in the system, also you can use an ir temp gun to take some measurements in and out of rad

 

The water that comes out of the reservoir is hot. I have a laser temperature gun i'll have to check the temperatures or the lower and upper radiator hose swelling. What is the procedure for bleeding the system?

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Any rage or anything left in the hoses that were used to stop drips?

 

Very little residue of sealant left. I expecting to see a lot of it when I replaced the thermostat. But to my surprise there wasn't !

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FWIW the 928 cooling system is self bleeding, That means,
no fancy hose disconnections or filling from a different hose or anything else is needed.

To fill the coolant system add coolant to the bottle, keeping at half full or just above the seam.
NOTE the cooling systen holds 4 gallons ,
so get 2 gallons of the pure coolant and 2 gallons of distilled water from the market.

once the bottle wont accept any more coolant open the heater to full hot,
start the engine and let it warm up with the coolant cap off.
once the fans begin to cycle OR the radiator is hot ,
then install the cap and then take it for a 5 mile drive.
with the heat on.

THEN, park the car let it cool off ,
once cool top it up as necessary

 

I think the stop leak is what's really going on here, especially since you didn't see much residue of it when you drained the system - I think you have a clog. I would completely flush this system. First, empty it, including from the block drain plugs, both sides. MEASURE what you remove to determine if it all came out. Then put the block plugs back in (torque to spec, with silver antiseize), fill system with water, put a hose on it and run it through thoroughly for awhile. Do a final thorough flush with distilled water - make sure you flush all of the regular garden hose water out. Remove block plugs again too, and see what comes out.
Then put it back together, fill with your coolant mix and see how it runs (Zerex G-05). Also note, the thermostats that are being sold now run a bit hotter than before - I noticed this when I did my flush last year, and Roger confirmed it.

Lastly - never ever use stopleak - that stuff is an engine killer.

 

I allowed the engine to idle about 15 minutes, some air bubbled out of the reservoir with the cap off. The temperature on the top hose is 165 degrees and the bottom hose temperature is 127 degrees. When I put the reservoir cap back on the temperature went up to 172 at the top hose and 135 at the bottom. But when I shut the engine off you can hear the the coolant bubbling in the reservoir. Now the low coolant light is on.

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Pull the new thermostat and put it in a boiling pot of water to see if it opens.