NZ928S4

Ok, just got through changing the vacuum controllers that were leaking and had the center console out. Thanks Roger good to not have the heat on in the summer here.

Changed the window switches with new ones.

Buttoned everything up test drive all wonderful after years of hot air in summer. AC next.

Right window all perfect.

OK left window went up as planned. UH OH but it does not go down click click of window controller under the passenger seat (RHD) . What now?? Took the door apart. Disconnected wires to the motor. Ran jumpers and the window goes up and down fine.

Test light shows Blue/White lead to motor is hot with ignition key in off position??? Looked under console all looks ok.

Don't see any broken wires. Tried old switches same response. So what have I done as all worked fine before? Do I need to take the seat out to check wires to/from the window controller? Did I fry the controller somehow?

ammonman

The fault is most likely in the wiring inside the door. I had to cut open the plastic sheathing (not the accordion protective tube) to find the broken wires in my driver side door. The conductors were broken inside the insulation so there wasn't any visible damage. I had to carefully flex the wiring to spot the places where the insulation made sharp bends across the broken conductor ends. A couple of soldered/shrink tubing repairs and good as new.

Mike

Mrmerlin

Mike is spot on, usually broken wires in the sheathing
for the old switches you could consider this as well,
It took a while for me to find this,
what usually happens is a bit difficult to see,
But I will try to explain it.

These switches will over time get the contacts carbonized from use,
as this happens the contacts start getting hotter and hotter,
as the resistance grows so does the amount of heat,
NOTE that is a result of the reduced current being flowed by the dirty contacts.

So a few things should be done,
clean the motor and lubricate the pivot pin of the window arm and the central tube sliders.

Take the switch apart and without changing the orientation of the parts,

closely inspect the contacts,
you will find where one of them has gotten hot enough to melt the plastic and thus it has now been pushed ever so slightly lower than the rest of the contacts,

You can get a soldering iron and apply this to the rear of the contact to push it back into position .
once this is done,
I would suggest to mix up some JB weld and coat the rear side of the switch so it will hold the pins in position,
once this has set up,
then use some deoxit on the contacts and assemble and test then install the switch.
Of course you could just buy a new switch but you should still do the motor and arm refresh,
use deoxit on the new switch

NZ928S4

I had just put two brand new switches in. So probably not the switches. I have tried with three different switches all the same. Click click under the seat. It goes up fine but won't come down..

Odd that this happened after taking the console out.

It could be broken wires. The blue lead is hot to the motor with the key off. Is it supposed to be hot all the time? I just had the door apart and the motor is fine and by using a couple of leads hotwired the window went up and down. So mechanically Aok.

I looked at the sleave with the door wires and there did not appear to be any issues. But yes it could be there.

I will use the right door switch and triple check.

But this all started right after I put the center console back in.

Mrmerlin

well take it apart and inspect your work maybe you have a pinched wire

ROG100

Check the controller under the seat. Easy to get to without removing the seat. Disconnect and reseat - worth a try.

MFranke

Sounds electrical, but while you are in the door, you may want to check the regulator stops. The rubber stops disintegrate over time allowing more travel to the hard stop and allowing the regulator arm to take on the motor torque at min max. This can deform the arm over time and lead to mechanical binding. You can mount new rubber or wood in the stop to restore function.

NZ928S4

Problem solved.

Mike was right! I went back and thought through. All was well until I changed the switches.

I unplugged the new on on the right door. Used an old one on the left door and up and down it went.

Put the old back on the right door and all windows up and down as usual.

Seems the new ones sourced from a local supplier (not Porsche dealer here) did not work properly. Odd though the right door went up an down. There is a moral to the story here. Use part numbers.

Thanks for everyones input. Learned more than I wanted about the windows. Truly a complicated car. Has a box for everything. Not as bad as a 4matic MB I had once though.

Alan

In these cases it cannot be broken wires in the door hinge area because there are only 2 wires to each motor. Both wires are used for each direction so if it works one way the wiring is certainly OK.

The window motor wires can each change polarity - whenever these two are the same polarity the motor doesn't move and consumes no power. As they change relative polarity the motor moves one way or the other. Sometimes the default at rest condition for both wires is grounded - sometimes its battery voltage. From what you noted it may well be that Porsche uses powered at battery voltage (but only when the windows are active). What you saw was probably one side being open-circuit. The difference between grounded and open circuit is not immediately obvious with a voltmeter - unless you also measure the differential voltage.

Alan

Mrmerlin

glad you got it figured out ,
some deoxit and a switch inspection will have the originals back in service