jeremymilo

1986.5 5-speed 928

Lots of good progress bringing my recently-acquired 928 back towards stock looks and street performance. Timing belt and tensioner done, hatch latch working, shifter bushings serviced, heater bypass solved, power seat and window switches fixed, etc. The progress feels good!

Now I'm turning my attention to the car's handling, which feels somewhat loose / floaty / imprecise. I already plan to replace all four shocks and the steering rack, adjust ride height, then get an alignment. Suspension springs are still ok.

While I'm at it, what else should I consider to help bring back stock handling? I'm focused on "consumables" and parts that actually wear out over time, rather than non-stock upgrades to long-lived parts. Tips for how to evaluate what might be worn out and what I can keep would be great.

Thanks!

Randy V

Replace all the front suspension bushings. Upgrade the steering rack to delrin bushings.

Rear suspension also has several rubber bushings that need replaced.

Gary Knox

Steering rack bushings are frequently soft and/or oil soaked. This makes for significant reduction in steering response. Most replace the OE rubber ones with 2 piece Delrin. Roger stocks these. IF the rack isn't leaking, just bushing replacement can make a huge difference.

jeremymilo

Thanks Randy, I'll definitely do the Delrin steering rack bushings. How many front suspension bushings are there per side? Do you know the part names or numbers, so I don't miss anything?

Rear bushing part names or numbers would be helpful, too.

SteveG

As thorough as you are attending to this car, you know that before aligning, the car must settle after being lifted. Just checking.

There has not been a lot of discussion on springs and their life span here, but when I was doing my 85, I went ahead and replaced them (I didn't do bushings). It just seemed they are not that expensive and replacing shocks can be challenging and why not do the springs while in there. Just my .02. FWIW, somebody else was doing the job.

Rob Edwards

Here's your parts list for an 86.5 (should be good for 86.5 to 95, come to think of it. )

cretinx

bushings
bushings
bushings
bushings

I typically do mine every ~10 years.

There will be lots of debate as to what to use.

My personal preference is rubber, slightly stiffer than stock.

once you start getting into harder stuff you will get squeaks and the ride will start to dramatically suffer.

jeremymilo

Thanks cretinx, most people seem to agree on doing the bushings if they seem worn. There are several different bushings in the front and rear suspension. Are all of these recommended? Am I missing any?

Steering rack bushings
Front sway bar bushings
Rear sway bar bushings
Rear upper control arm bushings (inner and outer)
Rear lower control arm bushings (inner and outer)
Upper A-arm bushings
Weissach bushings

danglerb

If you call any of the savvy 928 vendors they will know and send you all the parts you need. Its why we refer to them as trusted vendors.

bureau13

Should one just assume these bushings are needed, if the car is this old? There is nothing about my car's handling that screams "worn-out bushings" that I can tell, then again I've never driven a new one. Other than things like the steering rack bushings, is there a good way to tell visually or otherwise if they need to be changed?

danglerb

Bushings and motor mounts, once changed you realize how much the old ones sucked.

Rob Edwards

FWIW, I didn't include the Weissach bushing (Porsche calls it a 'rocker bar', P/N 928 331 085 00) as they're NLA, AFAIK.

bureau13

How much of a royal pain in the *** is it to change these, and does it make sense to do it while doing shocks? Shocks are definitely on my list as well...

(Sorry for the semi-hijack...hey, it's still mostly on-topic!)

hwyengr

For the front, the recommendations I've read here are to install rebuilt arms rather than trying to press out and in the bushings. Shock work would be a natural time to do it, since you've got to take out the shocks anyway to remove the control arms.

If you were ever planning on pulling the engine out, though, that would be an even better time since it's so much easier to get to the upper arm mounts.

Smokin' Joe

I'm not sure you can get the upper A arms out with the engine in place. The nuts on the inside of the engine bay are buried waaaay down there and reaching them might require growing a second elbow on your arm.

My hat is off to anyone that has done it without moving the engine.