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I wonder if any of you have a good or even brilliant way of getting the rubber sleeve and the electrical wiring into the engine compartment as step 43 in WSM says? I´m having a really hard time getting it to move att all....
"43.Push rubber sleeve out of holder
into engine compartment."
spay the rubber with silicone spray,
then use a fat blade screwdriver to gently push an edge towards the engine ,
don cut the rubber,
once the rubber is out,
then feed the smallest connectors first through the hole then the biggest
NOTE the engine should be lifted a few inches to make room for the harness
Ugh, just did this yesterday, but in reverse (re-assembly). One of my least favorite 928 jobs.
Take lots of pics from the engine compartment above and below before you do this, to get a good 3-D sense of where the harness runs in an between all the heater hoses and cloth-wrapped fuel vapor lines.
Agree 100% with Stan- push the white/green wire through first, then the O2 sensor, then the 3-pin AMP connector, 'V' and 'W' connectors, then the ICM connector, and last the LH and EZK connectors. Make sure the bails on the last two stay flat while you're pushing them through.
After each one, go to the engine compartment and make sure it's folded out of the way so there's room for the others to poke through.
Is it possible to remove connectors from the engine and leave the harness in the car? I am looking at this approach when pulling mine as I've done it on BMW. TIA.
Is it possible to remove connectors from the engine and leave the harness in the car? I am looking at this approach when pulling mine as I've done it on BMW. TIA.
This is what I did and did not have an issue at all. Since I was taking the engine down to the block, it seemed the best route.
I used to think that undoing the harness from the engine 1st was more work than to just push the connectors through the firewall. I'm beginning to disagree with myself- If the engine is coming out, it is probably less work to remove the fuel rails, the rear damper and FPR, and then undo all the engine harness connections and flop the engine harness up onto the windshield for the duration of the engine-out process.
Having 2 people to coordinate pushing or pulling the engine harness through the hole makes the process much less unpleasant than doing it solo, but it's still unpleasant for two.
The diameter of the LH harness hole in the firewall is definitely a head scratcher as to why it's not bigger. Maybe that was the biggest rubber sleeve/grommet that Leoni could source in the 1980s?
I think the opening was designed with the fact that there would be two assemblers working on it/
one inside the car and the other feeding it through .
Remember the engine was installed from the bottom of the car so its not much of a stretch to imagine how easy it was to feed the wires into the hole with someone inside
When I took my engine out the last two times I was VERY tempted to cut the harness on the engine side of the firewall and install some large deutsch connectors.
Ugh, still a vivid memory from my parts car, grabbed and pulled and I hear this "snap", dislocated a finger and took a good year before I would call it working normally.
Don't use WD40, when the solvent part evaporates it glues the rubber.
I've done it both ways.
I recommend undoing the wiring from the engine as suppose to pulling it through. Getting it back in to place can be a bear.....
Thanks for the confirmation of leaving harness in the car. I have 2 dental picks that's 11" long with 4 different hook on the 4 ends that I used to remove the Bosch clips on injector, MAF, sensors, etc.... easily as it can reach almost everything, similar to this http://www.ebay.com/itm/O-Ring-Seal-...-/351283858085
01-12-2015, 01:34 PM
Final step before lifting the engine
