When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anderson did a passive Setrab oil cooler on the driver's side in front of the radiator on his racer:
Setrab 50-625-7612
There is also a fan-cooled transmission cooler in the right-hand fenderwell, ducted through the old turn signal space- dunno the capacity of the cooler nor the fans:
Most likely that the stock setup is useless in traffic in any hot climate. I added the radiator cooler back to the mix using the GB hose set up. Or he needs more cooling area because the stock is small and not in the best place.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Apologies for the delay in getting back here. Thanks for all the good info.
Being a '90 car the oil cooler is under the radiator and in harm's way, sort of.
Porsche fitted a sheet steel surround with 4 vents in the front. Then they fitted the chin spoiler (with vents) so you couldn't see if it was clogged up with moths, grasshoppers, grass seeds or slow children. Then if any sort of oil film got down there it would every last bit of dust and fluff, making it totally useless. Did I mention: no cooling fans. On hot days in slow traffic the engine oil temp rises (235F) and oil pressure falls. What was Porsche thinking?
Pics below tell the story.
When car left the factory:
After car had lived in the real world:
There's a bit of cooler ...
After I had already attempted to clean this via the vents
Hey Randy. Yes I did, to inside the front LH guard. (Shortest route for hoses).
Started out as one of those "this shouldn't be too hard" jobs, and went over the cliff from there, RoadRunner style. LOL.
When unscrewing the lower pipe adaptor fitting from the oil thermostat housing, it tore the threads out of the alloy. What??? A Rennlist trawl shows this has happened on the odd occasion.
Two choices: engine out and fit a helicoil, or use a super strength 'cold weld' epoxy.
I went with the epoxy. First attempt not entirely successful (a seeping leak arouund the threads); inexperience on my part and too little gap between the threads and the alloy.
Hmmmm. A bit more online research showed I needed something that would capilliary it's way into the smallest crevices, yet have mechanical strength for use in hydraulic lines.
Came up with Loctite 542. Brilliantly easy to apply. Full strength after 24 hrs, and it worked. The 'pop out' force at 8 bar is approx 75lb, easily handled by the shear strength of the sealer, and as long as the Loctite does not deteriorate all should be good for some time to come.
I am deeply suspicious of that cooler arrangement and worse, I noted a bit of dent on the frame of mine- heavens know how that happened.
I purchased an after market cooler [photo attached] with an integral fan mounted on it and a SPAL programmable controller and wiring harness kits- just never got round to mounting- mostly because it seemed rather complicated. The cooler can fit in the front driver side [LHD] wheel arch although whether it would fit with the puller fan mounted is another matter. not a good place to mount a piece of electrical kit if it does rain [not very often here].
Hey Roger, you said you "added the radiator cooler back to the mix using the GB hose set up" ... did you end up using both coolers or just the radiator cooler?
Most likely that the stock setup is useless in traffic in any hot climate. I added the radiator cooler back to the mix using the GB hose set up. Or he needs more cooling area because the stock is small and not in the best place.
The stock oil cooler will still radiate heat, so it's not useless. Furthermore, the heat load at low rpms is relatively low, and low air speeds tend to coincide with low rpms. That said, I think hooking up the radiator end tank(s) in series with the external oil cooler (like what Rob's pictures show) makes all the sense in the world.
It becomes a problem in stop-start freeway driving in the L.A. basin in the summer. Which I try never to do, but occasionally get caught in. You can sit and watch the oil pressure nudge downward. I am adding a virtual oil temp gauge into the flush console build so I can get a better feel for oil temps under various driving conditions. (I have a set of these hoses but pathetically have not yet installed them...)
It becomes a problem in stop-start freeway driving in the L.A. basin in the summer. Which I try never to do, but occasionally get caught in. You can sit and watch the oil pressure nudge downward. I am adding a virtual oil temp gauge into the flush console build so I can get a better feel for oil temps under various driving conditions. (I have a set of these hoses but pathetically have not yet installed them...)
Hooking it up the way you've done in your car is an obvious improvement from how the car came out from the factory.
01-08-2015, 02:54 PM
Moving my 1990 GT oil cooler.
George Layton March 2014
