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#16
Burning Brakes
I was having a little fun with the 911 forum Targa's versus Coupes and the detailed reasons why Coupes are better than Targas. Owning a Targa I chimed in this long forum discussion and stated that Targa's suck A$$, and left it at that. My comment generated others asking for Bob (all knowing and wise) to respond, and I had a good laugh at it.
#17
8th Gear
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Location: London
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Storage
After spending £5000 for an independent porsche 'specialist' to get my car running (badly). I've decided to commence a restoration.
Given availability of free time, I estimate this will take me about 2 years (optimistic?). The problem I have is that I will be doing the work in a single car garage - space is limited in London and I'm seriously jealous of the garage port pics in another thread! So I will be moving the car to get to areas requiring full door opening.
Anyway, my query is about whether I should be draining any fluids given the car will be immobile for a long time.
Also, how can I determine which MY my car is. It was registered in January '89 so it's not clear. The engine looks a little unusual too black cam covers and inlet and a little fuel/vacuum pressure dial on the front left bank.
Any help will be appreciated.
Here is the engine bay...
Last edited by KermitGB; 10-22-2015 at 07:08 PM.
#18
Rennlist Member
Please post pics and you may get useful feedback of how much work your car needs (that's what the boys were getting at in their series of reply posts to this thread - it's an old joke here). Now whether that work takes you two years or two decades depends solely onyour time/money/ability/will resources.
Leave the coolant and lubricants in unless you are working on that system - you want to keep the wetted bits wet. When you are all done, change them all. Drain the fuel though, as it will go bad after a while - add fresh fuel when necessary to run the engine.
I personally recommend running injector cleaner and oil detergent additives (is SeaFoam sold in UK??) which can clear up all manner of non-mechanical problems that you may be trying to exorcize with new parts. There should be someone along shortly to disagree with me vehemently on that, insisting that they saw an engine die right in front of their eyes after using SeaFoam... such is life on the forums.
You will find numerous VIN decoders on the other end of a google search that will tell you exactly what year and market your car was first sold in. The one on 928OC.org (that's the 928 Owner's Club website) will tell you what options the car was built with. Some are obvious (heated seats) and some are otherwise invisible (limited slip differential).
Leave the coolant and lubricants in unless you are working on that system - you want to keep the wetted bits wet. When you are all done, change them all. Drain the fuel though, as it will go bad after a while - add fresh fuel when necessary to run the engine.
I personally recommend running injector cleaner and oil detergent additives (is SeaFoam sold in UK??) which can clear up all manner of non-mechanical problems that you may be trying to exorcize with new parts. There should be someone along shortly to disagree with me vehemently on that, insisting that they saw an engine die right in front of their eyes after using SeaFoam... such is life on the forums.
You will find numerous VIN decoders on the other end of a google search that will tell you exactly what year and market your car was first sold in. The one on 928OC.org (that's the 928 Owner's Club website) will tell you what options the car was built with. Some are obvious (heated seats) and some are otherwise invisible (limited slip differential).
#19
Rennlist Member
Yes, drain the fuel tank. If you have an in-tank pump (look for wires to it) there is rubber in that pump as well. You really should replace the rubber lines if they are original. Call Roger Tyson, search here him.
#20
8th Gear
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Please post pics and you may get useful feedback of how much work your car needs (that's what the boys were getting at in their series of reply posts to this thread - it's an old joke here). Now whether that work takes you two years or two decades depends solely onyour time/money/ability/will resources.
Leave the coolant and lubricants in unless you are working on that system - you want to keep the wetted bits wet. When you are all done, change them all. Drain the fuel though, as it will go bad after a while - add fresh fuel when necessary to run the engine.
I personally recommend running injector cleaner and oil detergent additives (is SeaFoam sold in UK??) which can clear up all manner of non-mechanical problems that you may be trying to exorcize with new parts. There should be someone along shortly to disagree with me vehemently on that, insisting that they saw an engine die right in front of their eyes after using SeaFoam... such is life on the forums.
You will find numerous VIN decoders on the other end of a google search that will tell you exactly what year and market your car was first sold in. The one on 928OC.org (that's the 928 Owner's Club website) will tell you what options the car was built with. Some are obvious (heated seats) and some are otherwise invisible (limited slip differential).
Leave the coolant and lubricants in unless you are working on that system - you want to keep the wetted bits wet. When you are all done, change them all. Drain the fuel though, as it will go bad after a while - add fresh fuel when necessary to run the engine.
I personally recommend running injector cleaner and oil detergent additives (is SeaFoam sold in UK??) which can clear up all manner of non-mechanical problems that you may be trying to exorcize with new parts. There should be someone along shortly to disagree with me vehemently on that, insisting that they saw an engine die right in front of their eyes after using SeaFoam... such is life on the forums.
You will find numerous VIN decoders on the other end of a google search that will tell you exactly what year and market your car was first sold in. The one on 928OC.org (that's the 928 Owner's Club website) will tell you what options the car was built with. Some are obvious (heated seats) and some are otherwise invisible (limited slip differential).