Bearing steel parts typically include the basic size info, in this case a 6006. There are various suffixes that vary slightly by manufacturer, but are somewhat standard nonetheless. The -ZZ usually designates a bearing with both seals and metal shields (both sides), so would be the correct choice. Seals-only would be sufficient in this service too. The C5 speaks to the lubrication and sometimes the finish quality of the ***** and races for higher-RPM service.

Sometimes the build quality representation is, um, stretched by marking folks as they try to push a bearing into a higher performance class. Buy name-brand bearings and the risk of this is lessened. In the US I look for Timken, Fafnir, SKF in big bearings (much bigger than these), probably a similar list for these.

 

The Honda bearing linked above is the factory pinion bearing from the front differential on 2003-onwards Honda ATV's. Its a Honda OE part, so will be a quality bearing most likely from a Japanese manufacturer (e.g. NTN or Koyo).

Searching by part number 91062-HN8-013 turns them up all over the place at Honda dealerships and specialists.

 

C5 versus C3 or CN is more to do with the increased clearance, radial and I believe angular than consideration of the finish or lubrication.

 

Scan out of my *** (Schaeffler) technical pocket guide:

 

Does anyone know if you can simply drill though the torque tube and set screw in place the damper?

 

It's been done before by a few others without issue, I don't see why you couldn't

 

That's my plan for now. Tired of the clunk every time I accelerate.

 

Not really that easy.

The metal part of the dampener is suspended in the TT by two rubber ends. Once they fragment the metal part of the dampener is now misplaced a bit lower in the TT from its suspended position and starts rubbing against the drive shaft.

Obligatory photo with drive shaft at bottom showing the wear from the metal part of the dampener.

 

Today I'm going to pull the exhaust and heat shield and drill and tap the torque tube and the vibration damper together in the middle of the damper. Wish me luck.

 

By the way has anyone tried to replicate the dampers rubber springs with bulk urethane before?

 

I drilled and then threaded the holes to it in case the damper. Those bolts were 1 inch long. I then used a shorter bolts in the middle to raise the damper off the driveshaft. After starting the car off no noise from this area has been heard

 

IMO ^^^this^^^ type of "repair" is why some cars bring good $ and some do not.

 

This is a temporary fix so I can not worry about the damper destroying my bearings until I have time and money to rebuilt the torque tube. Im going to shark fest in a few weeks. I think Im going to buy a torque tube from Mark when Im there. I still have to remove my transmission one more time to solve my " sweating Torque converter? That was rebuilt.

 

I understand why you did this, but it might also keep you from getting a "core" exchange on a rebuilt. Your only choice would be to rebuild it yourself with new bearings or send off to Mark-928 Intl/Constantine BlackSea R&D to rebuild your tube without a core to swap. I hope it bridges you over until you can do a proper rebuild.