Very odd clunk
01-07-2015, 02:26 PM
#46
Rennlist Member
I found a plyer handle INSIDE my tire.. thought it was a air pressure sensor that broke free and was flying around the inside of the tire. turned out, to be part of the plyer that pierced the tire, but stuck there, plugging up the hole until It was pushed all the way in.... clunk only at slow speeds when it as falling around ... freeway speeds, it was stable due to centrifugal force. pulling the tire off allowed us to see this crazy thing inside the tire.
08-26-2018, 12:56 PM
#48
Mine developed a clunking at stop and go, only thing I can figure is the vibration damper is sliding for and aft in the torque tube. Sadly this is a rebuilt tube that's only about 4 years old.
08-26-2018, 06:17 PM
#50
Team Owner
For the TT damper sliding what i found is that,
it will come to a fully stopped position after the car has come to a stop,
so you can feel it thudding/stopping about half a second after the wheels stop.
For Bill ***** description of a loose rotor on the front,
the usual suspect is the lower area of the race seat for the inner bearing.
The spindles seem to be made of softer metal, the bearing will wear down this area so a lil bit of play is introduced.
NOTE accurate wheel bearing adjustment is accomplished by resurfacing with 400 grit paper both sides of the washer and the nut of the wheel bearing,
this will remove any burrs or worn areas so the washer can slide without binding.
NOTE a worn spindle and a properly adjusted bearing will mean that the wheel will have a bit of play,
this will not hurt anything and the car will travel many miles safely
NOTE dont be tempted to tighten the play out of worn spindle by making the nut tighter,
the hub needs room to expand,
and making the nut tighter will increase the heat generated and the forces applied to the bearing,
thus leading to increased wear and possibly causing damage to the spindle.
A correctly adjusted nut will let the washer be able to be pushed with the tip of a screwdriver,
if you are plying it to move it then it is too tight.
it will come to a fully stopped position after the car has come to a stop,
so you can feel it thudding/stopping about half a second after the wheels stop.
For Bill ***** description of a loose rotor on the front,
the usual suspect is the lower area of the race seat for the inner bearing.
The spindles seem to be made of softer metal, the bearing will wear down this area so a lil bit of play is introduced.
NOTE accurate wheel bearing adjustment is accomplished by resurfacing with 400 grit paper both sides of the washer and the nut of the wheel bearing,
this will remove any burrs or worn areas so the washer can slide without binding.
NOTE a worn spindle and a properly adjusted bearing will mean that the wheel will have a bit of play,
this will not hurt anything and the car will travel many miles safely
NOTE dont be tempted to tighten the play out of worn spindle by making the nut tighter,
the hub needs room to expand,
and making the nut tighter will increase the heat generated and the forces applied to the bearing,
thus leading to increased wear and possibly causing damage to the spindle.
A correctly adjusted nut will let the washer be able to be pushed with the tip of a screwdriver,
if you are plying it to move it then it is too tight.
08-27-2018, 01:48 AM
#51
Former Sponsor
Front sway bar drop link.
Remove sway bar and see if the noise is affected.
Remove sway bar and see if the noise is affected.
08-27-2018, 01:57 AM
#52
Rennlist Member
I have a clunk in my 89 that just about drove me crazy trying to figure it out.
I thought it was a loose caliper since it only clunked when leaving from a stop. My thought was that it only clunked then because when the brakes were depressed, it stabilized the caliper and rotor and only when the pads were pulled ever so slightly away from the rotor would it be able to clunk. I therefore checked the torque on all the calipers. No joy there.
It must then be the rear sway bar, because the weight transfer of the car during acceleration from stop made it clunk. No joy there either.
Transmission loose? Nope.
Finally figured out that it was the doggone TT damper sliding back and creating that clunk. Funny that it doesn't clunk when braking, but it doesn't.
I did actually quit worrying about it once I figured out WHAT it was and I began accumulating the parts necessary to correct it. I have those parts now, but have not found the time to correct it.
But it's on the list.
I thought it was a loose caliper since it only clunked when leaving from a stop. My thought was that it only clunked then because when the brakes were depressed, it stabilized the caliper and rotor and only when the pads were pulled ever so slightly away from the rotor would it be able to clunk. I therefore checked the torque on all the calipers. No joy there.
It must then be the rear sway bar, because the weight transfer of the car during acceleration from stop made it clunk. No joy there either.
Transmission loose? Nope.
Finally figured out that it was the doggone TT damper sliding back and creating that clunk. Funny that it doesn't clunk when braking, but it doesn't.
I did actually quit worrying about it once I figured out WHAT it was and I began accumulating the parts necessary to correct it. I have those parts now, but have not found the time to correct it.
But it's on the list.