Jetdriver69

I had to remove the hard line from the clutch slave to get it out and to install the flywheel lock for the the WP change. There just want enough room to compress the plunger and remove it without kinking the hard line.

I know, you can remove the starter and there will enough room to wiggle the slave out or you buy Greg's flex line solution. BTW, the slave and MC are very new and you can't remove the slave plunger on this model.

Anyway, I read the easiest way to bleed is to reverse fill the brake reservoir through the clutch slave bleeder, pushing out all the air with a pump oil can and a section of 3mm clear hose. I do not have a power bleeder.

Since I removed the slave hard line and introduced air into the system, do I also need to bleed the brakes? No big deal, but I just did it last year.

Thanks

Gman1003

I just did this. There is a ring that holds the slave rod and boot/seal into the cylinder. You can simply pop the ring out with a thin blade screwdriver and remove the rod and the slave slider can simply be slid out of the way without loosening or removing the line. The ring is a star shaped ring.

Gman1003

All you need to do is remove the slave cylinder bolts and pull the cylinder out a couple of inches to expose the boot ring and pop it out.

Gman1003

Just to be safe I ordered a new boot seal and star ring clip to install when I am ready to remove the engine lock from the flywheel.

Gman1003

Jet, I should have read your original post more carefully. I didn't realize you can't remove the rod from your slave cylinder. Sorry about that.

GlenL

No. The air from the clutch runs up directly into the reservoir without contaminating the brake lines or master cylinder.

Jetdriver69

No problem, if I would have had the older model slave then it would have been much easier.

I didn't think I would have contaminated the brake system, just wanted to make sure.

Thanks all!

SteveG

A power bleeder is cheap and well worth the price as you will prob find out.
With or without bleeder you will most likely have to bleed the master, which is difficult only b/c of the contortion needed to reach it under the dash. There are threads here on burping it. Sometimes you get lucky, but with a new master, I'm betting you will have to make like a pretzel. Do that last if the pedal isn't solid.

uncre8tv

+1 on power bleeder. Small price for the frustration saved.

Jetdriver69

Not to be argumentative, but I was told that even with a power bleeder you can still have air in the line.

If you push the fluid from the bleeder through the slave, up the line and then through the MC to the reservoir, there is less chance of air trapped in the line.

I was told to keep pushing brake fluid through the bleeder until there are no bubbles in the reservoir.

Just looking for the cheapest, easiest route.

Thanks

uncre8tv

Both methods work. I have no case to say that pushing with a power bleeder is "better" in any way. But it's definitely easy. I used a power bleeder after I opened my slave cylinder line during my TB/WP service. It was so quick and easy compared to any manual bleed method. Using the brakes to bleed the clutch is also a method that is advocated by some very sage voices here. I just can't get behind it due to my own laziness.

However - "powering" the fluid through with a pump oil can as you described also seems to make sense to me. You're basically doing what a power bleeder does, in reverse. Just any method that requires pedal pumping (either of them) is a zero in my book. Only problem with the can "up" method is it might be awkward to watch for bubbles while trying to pump.

Still - I have a lot of cars to work on, and feel the power bleeder was a good tool investment ($45 open box Amazon.)

Jetdriver69

Thanks for the input. If I could have removed the slave without disconnecting the line, that would have been my route.

As rarely as I bleed brakes and the car is on jacks at the moment, I think I will try the reverse bleed method.

If that craps out, I can always try a power bleeder.

Have a great holiday.

atb

Wasn't there a method posted where a line was run from the brake caliper to the slave, and the person pumped the brake pedal to reverse pressurize the clutch hydraulics?

AirtekHVAC

I reverse bled mine....seems to have worked, sitting up on the lift bars anyway....

Jetdriver69

I reverse bled the clutch, pumping fluid from the bleed nipple up the system to the reservoir.

It seemed to work fine while the car was on blocks, but with it running the 5 speed doesn't want to go into reverse without some minor clashing.

The rest of the gears are fine. I know you need to wait a few seconds after start up to select reverse due to lack of reverse synchos in the 82 gear box, or you will get a bit of clash. But this is much worse than before.

Do you think I didn't get all the air out of the lines? The clutch pedal feels as solid as before the whole WP/TB changeout.

Might have to try the power bleeder after all.

Thanks!