Does the torque tube need to come out with clutch replacement?
#1
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1988 S4 manual. Chirping throw out bearing is getting louder....so it's time for a clutch replacement.
Quick question: Does the torque tube need to come out for the clutch job?
Thanks!
Quick question: Does the torque tube need to come out for the clutch job?
Thanks!
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#2
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Nope. Pull the bottom bellhousing cover, remove some bolts and the clutch falls out (usually on your face). The space is tight and there are some tricks to make it easier (shims to keep the PP compressed), described pretty well in the WSM and in some past threads.
#4
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Nope, not at all. Drop the exhaust, (careful of the O2 sensor cable, disconnect at the CE panel 1st) remove the starter (usually easier to undo the 4 swaybar mount bolts and rotate it a bit), undo the clutch slave hardline from the oil pan, undo the clutch slave, drop the bellhousing cover, rotate the engine (27mm socket on the crank bolt, clockwise from front only...) insert shims into the pressure plate, undo the intermediate shaft clamp bolts (8mm hex) and slide clamp into the TT, undo the guide tube bolts, then the 9 pressure plate bolts, then maneuver the release arm off the ball.
Then- build a cardboard chest protector, lie directly under the clutch, support with your strong arm and then slowly pull the intermediate shaft out of the pilot bearing, and catch the ~45 lb clutch pack. Done.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Then- build a cardboard chest protector, lie directly under the clutch, support with your strong arm and then slowly pull the intermediate shaft out of the pilot bearing, and catch the ~45 lb clutch pack. Done.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
#5
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Many "Porsche" repair shops who are not familiar with the 928 ASSUME it is just like a 944 and will tell prospective customers that they need to drop the torque tube..... Porsche wisely fixed that design oversight for the 928. Actually is one of the easiest cars to do a clutch
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#8
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It doesn't if someone has previously left out the two rear-most bolts in the lower bellhousing cover. Typically not the case on most street 928s.
#9
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I also mark the way you remove the clutch with magic marker. make lines everywhere and try and put it back the same way.
when putting the clutch back together, I put a dab of jbweld in the pin holes to keep the clutch together as you lift it back in the car. not enough to glue anything, just a dab to keep stuff together. (tiny tiny amount of 5min stuff that you can count on to keep the clutch pack together as you lift it back into the car)
#10
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Why would that be necessary, since you have the short shaft holding the assembly together as you put it up in bellhousing? Lift the assembly into the bellhousing, push the short shaft into the pilot bearing, and slide the rear coupler onto the short shaft. No need for JB Weld, don't be _that_ PO....
#11
Three Wheelin'
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I just did this on my 81. Rob described it well, especially in regards to positioning your self. I used a knee as well to hold thinks up when removing and installing the pp bolts.
I did it with exhaust on, I just unbolted the headers to pipe connection and that allowed me to push it side to side enough to have access.
Replace clamp bolts.
I did it with exhaust on, I just unbolted the headers to pipe connection and that allowed me to push it side to side enough to have access.
Replace clamp bolts.
#12
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Also a note,
Given that you have an 88, Porsche says you must replace the throw out bearing, the guid tube, and the release arm.
However if you buy just the bearing, you can push the old bearing apart, push the new one apart, swap the bearing into the old housing, and retain all your other parts which will be perfectly fine.
When you do go in here, make sure you install a new clutch release arm bushing as the old will likely be bad.
Given that you have an 88, Porsche says you must replace the throw out bearing, the guid tube, and the release arm.
However if you buy just the bearing, you can push the old bearing apart, push the new one apart, swap the bearing into the old housing, and retain all your other parts which will be perfectly fine.
When you do go in here, make sure you install a new clutch release arm bushing as the old will likely be bad.
#13
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Why would that be necessary, since you have the short shaft holding the assembly together as you put it up in bellhousing? Lift the assembly into the bellhousing, push the short shaft into the pilot bearing, and slide the rear coupler onto the short shaft. No need for JB Weld, don't be _that_ PO....
OH, sorry, im talking about the pre S4 dual disc clutches..... sorry!!
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#14
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NOTE this isnt the best way to fix the TOB as fitting a new part is the best way.
HOWEVER even new bearings do not seem to have much grease in them thus they fail prematurely.
Proceed at your own speed , SO, to get more service from your TOB this can be done .
Take a very sharp drill, 1/16 and carefully drill a hole into the TOB shield, work slowly so you dont push metal into the bearing, and or dont press hard so the shield gets deformed.
Then get a zerk fitting and screw a hypodermic needle onto the threaded part of the zerk.
clamping the open end onto the zerk may be needed, use a vice.
NOTE use a needle that will fit into the hole you have just drilled.
attach your grease gun to the zerk,
and inject some hi temperature grease into the bearing shield till it flows from the entire circumference.
Wipe off the excess grease,
use acetone to clean the area then a small dab of silicone sealant over the hole.
I have done this operation on slightly used TOBs that seemed to not have had much grease in them, so far they are still working with no failures
NOTE this process can usually extend the life a of a TOB for many hours of operation.
if it is done before the bearing has gotten really rusty or galled.
NOTE a new bearing should be used if after performing this service the bearing feels gritty while turning it.
OR it is observed the interior of the shielding is full of corrosion before adding grease
NOTE the clutch must be removed to perform this service
HOWEVER even new bearings do not seem to have much grease in them thus they fail prematurely.
Proceed at your own speed , SO, to get more service from your TOB this can be done .
Take a very sharp drill, 1/16 and carefully drill a hole into the TOB shield, work slowly so you dont push metal into the bearing, and or dont press hard so the shield gets deformed.
Then get a zerk fitting and screw a hypodermic needle onto the threaded part of the zerk.
clamping the open end onto the zerk may be needed, use a vice.
NOTE use a needle that will fit into the hole you have just drilled.
attach your grease gun to the zerk,
and inject some hi temperature grease into the bearing shield till it flows from the entire circumference.
Wipe off the excess grease,
use acetone to clean the area then a small dab of silicone sealant over the hole.
I have done this operation on slightly used TOBs that seemed to not have had much grease in them, so far they are still working with no failures
NOTE this process can usually extend the life a of a TOB for many hours of operation.
if it is done before the bearing has gotten really rusty or galled.
NOTE a new bearing should be used if after performing this service the bearing feels gritty while turning it.
OR it is observed the interior of the shielding is full of corrosion before adding grease
NOTE the clutch must be removed to perform this service
#15
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I used a piece of 1/4 plywood instead of cardboard to protect my chest when I pulled the pack out.
Had a friend support the assembly from above through the release arm hole when reinstalling with a rope around the stub shaft. This allows you to manuver the assembly into position without struggling with the weight.
Had a friend support the assembly from above through the release arm hole when reinstalling with a rope around the stub shaft. This allows you to manuver the assembly into position without struggling with the weight.