AO

Another vote for the retention springs for the parking brakes. Had one pop off on me once and rattled around like that. The problem is that you can't see it unless you take the rotor off.

Jacking up the rear end and letting the wheels spin should reveal where it's coming from. If it's suspension related, I would think you could isolate the noise just by bouncing the rear end by hand.

Bertrand Daoust

This is what the bottom pin should look like.
This is not from my car but from a thread here.

Good luck.

Bertrand Daoust

+1 on the parking brake springs.

There is two per side.


You can use a big flat screwdriver to press it in...


And hook it to the back.

bureau13

I'll bet it is in fact that parking break spring, or something in that area. The more I think about it, the more it almost has to be wheel-related, rather than suspension. I still would think it would happen spinning the wheels on stands, but maybe some loading on the wheel itself is needed for some reason.

Mark R.

There are two different ways to have the rear of a 928 jacked up in the air.

If it is sitting up on jackstands at the rear jack pads, then the rear suspension will be expanded and hanging down.

But if it is jacked up underneath the rear crossmember, the rear suspension will be compressed and in it's normal position.

AO

Ummm... No. Jacking on the cross member does NOT compress suspension.

Mark R.

You are correct. I don't know what I was thinking. Sorry...
(been underneath one of our other cars too much lately...).

bureau13

Not sure I understand that actually...the wheels still would seem to hang down if jacked from the cross member. At any rate, I was jacking there but putting stands under the jack points.

My current roadblock is getting the damn caliper off. I got the pads out, and I feel something still scraping a little with every revolution. Nowhere near the clunk I get when driving, but I expected it to be a much freer rotation with the pads out...so I'm guessing that's an e-brake thing. I wanted to pull the caliper and rotor and take a look, but I can't get the damn caliper bolts loose. Everything else has been relatively easy. I'm not even 100% sure I've got the right bolts, because my caliper doesn't look like either of Dwayne's pictures, the '84 or '88. I was expecting it to look like an '88 but I don't have 10mm allen head bolts where he shows them. I have 10mm allen head bolts holding the caliper together, but I appear to have 19mm hex head bolts holding the caliper to the wheel. It's irrelevant though, because I can't break them free. I am probably not giving them quite my all though, since it's not matching the pictures (everything else has perfectly).

Bertrand Daoust

On my '91, there is two 10 mm allen bolts on the front caliper and two 19 mm hex bolts on the back one.
I think it's the same on your car.

Use a ratchet with a long handle to get extra leverage.
They will break free.

Mark R.

That was my bad. Sorry for the confusion...

And whenever possible, always use a six point socket for this type of thing.
It significantly reduces the likelihood of possibly rounding the hex heads.

bureau13

I realized after I posted that that the pictures in Dwayne's write-up were of the front caliper. Good call on the six-point socket...fortunately I did have one. However I decided to give up and just deal with it when I change the rotors (which I will do next pad change, because they need it, although my pads look good, despite the pad warning going off...maybe the fronts are worn down). Put everything back together, took a quick test drive...no sound. So yeah, I fixed it! Ha ha...likely, it will be back, because nothing I did should have fixed anything, but I'll enjoy the lack of clanking in the mean time.