First off I want to thank everyone for all their feedback on my previous posts. I'm really learning a lot. Now to my question:

I'm going to see an 89 928 automatic tomorrow and other than the PPI stuff, and the basic things like drivability, controls, switches, etc., is there anything I should look for or pay special attention too?


Thanks.

 

Tariq,
If you know about cars, then when you drive it, you will know it's running OK.

The essential thing is a solid service history, and an owner who knows his car, and cares about its health.

If you ask him if the flex plate tension has been released lately, and he looks blank, walk away !

Coolant must be changed every couple of years, or head corrosion could result. The owner should know that to drain the coolant properly, the core plugs on each side of the crankcase should be removed

Look for the usual "mayonnaise" in the oil. Look for signs of oil in the coolant.

Look for oil or water in the "vee" of the engine. etc etc.

 

Thanks John. I've purchased many used cars but for some reason I just feel this car is different. Maybe it's the 8 cylinders, or the top speed, I just can't put my finger on it. I get nervous driving something so powerful! I can't wait though.

 

Hi Tariq.

Not trying to be Chicken Little here, but a very uncommon and rare condition that can affect S4/GTS automatics is thrust bearing failure. When it occurs, it is usually between 35K and 60K miles. If your S4 is within this mileage range and exhibits any of the following symptons: rough idle when the car warms up, car dies at idle when warm, or exhibits any strange engine/drive train noises when warm, and you're still interested in the car you should insist as part of the PPI that the oil filter be cut and examined.

If you but the A/T, and it doesn't have any of these characteristics, you will want to make releasing the front flex plate bolt as part of your maintenance routine.

Good luck, and keep us posted on the purchase.

 

Thanks for the advice Adam. The vehicle is well beyond that mileage range, infact it has 150,000 miles on it. Don't know if that's a good thing or bad! Either way, I just hope it's clean and drives good. Also, I hope that the auto tranny impresses me as that will be the real determining factor here. I really hope it does because I don't want to sit and wait around for another 6 months waiting for that cherry stick shift that's priced within my budget. A good deal on a clean auto can keep me happy. Thanks!

 

The most dangerous thing is to get over-excited and blind for possible issues. Search this board for other threads about checking out a 928. Make yourself notes of ever "Minus" you find Remember that repairs on these cars are about two to three times a similar repair on a Toyota.

Best of luck!

 

Hi Tariq,

As a newcomer to this site, I'll take a chance and suggest having a look at the 928 Pre-Inspection checklist (just in case you haven't) right here on the site...

I, too, will be "shopping" for a 928 in the near future, and I found this checklist to be a marvelously composed checklist, not only in terms of well informed inspections for car shopping in general, but also for the 928 specific points to ponder...when I hit the market, I plan on having printed copies of these checklists for each car I look at.

Be cautious, and have fun tomorrow.

 

Just a few bullet points that some may feel are less import but could be real indicators of severe issues or potentially expensive problems-

BODY
* If the car has been resprayed there are a few key indicators that don't oridinarily occur as places to look on the 928-

1st the body molding if they are distorted in anyway it's a sure sign that they have been removed and replaced and if they were not and the car was resprayed the obvious paint in the gap between the car and the moulding will be noticed. Believe me... check this. It may seem trifiling but you will thank me if any rust has been marginally repaired and painted over.

*Check closely around the black anodized molding on all the windows especially the rear where water and debris can collect and may be the beginning of a severe rust problem. Also, these anodized aluminum pieces and strips are easily damaged and may sometimes tell a story about any body work on the car.

* Check the front spoiler for severe damage, warping, or repairs look a bit further back and make certain the undertray and belly pan are there.

* Check the rubber seals along the doors-THESE BASTARDS ARE EXPENSIVE TO REPLACE!

*The rear trunk (hatch door) seals often deteriorate and will allow water into the cab of the car (directly onto the back seats), if you are allowed pour some water into the point where the hatch door has a seam between it and the roof of the car. Without doing this, seal deterioration can be difficult to detect here with the naked eye. THIS SEAL IS EXPENSIVE TO REPLACE TOO. Water leaks here will also destroy the head liner which is cardboard and willl distort if it gets wet and can cause shorts on the rear cabin lite.


While pouring the water into the above area pour some around the rear hatch anodized aluminum to check for leaks around the hatch glass where the anodized aluminum trim covers window sealant. This area is also very vulnerable to leaking into cabin trunk area.

* Check the underside of the hood for the foam heat shield and simultaniously make certain it is not deteroirating over the engine

ENGINE

* A 928 engine should turnover from a cold start in two or three turns and settles quickly to an idle between 800 and 1000rpm- like clock work! During this time if the entire car vibrates when starting you can assume that one or possibly both engine mounts are bad. After settling uneven running may be nothing more than a cracked distributor cap (not uncommon and very easily replaced) but check the air filter for leaves and debris. Over time you will be suprised at what this car has the potential to suck into those intake tubes.

* During start it would not be unusual to see a bit of smoke but only briefly. A constant smoking exhaust may be an indication of worn valve guides which in the 928 is relatively inexpensive to repair but it could also be an indication of worn or scored cylinder walls or bad piston rings. The bores of the 928 are Nikasil coated and CANNOT BE RECONDITIONED- which means a new block is needed!

*The idiot lights on the console will indicate if the camshaft belts are worn or need to be tensioned. Let me share this bit of advice- don't wait for the lite and don't depend on the maintenance paper work - make changing the timing belts your first project and a priority- a timing belt lost will be fatal to you 928, period.

928's do leak and the possiblity is likely that a few sump bolts that may need to be freshly tightened by you.

* Noisey power steering? Might not be the pump, check the steering rack the seals on this often harden because the steering box is relatively close to the exhaust and may require replacement (the steering rack).

* Check ALL electronics possible mirrors, head lamps and fog, seats, a/c, interieor lights, stereo, any thing that has a switch... PERIOD. Electrical gremlins in the 928 can be a real b*tch to work out. Also inquire if the owner has upgraded the headlamp bulbs and, if so, whether he just put the bulbs in or, installed with additional new relays. Simply installing increased wattage bulds without taking the load of the light switch with a relay will mean problems for you later. Ze Germans do just about everything on their cars with light duty switches and heavy duty relays (gives their switches finesse I suppose) unlike the ugly heavy duty FORD TRUCK American Pig Iron.


Best of fortunes in finding 928 purchase.

p@

 

All well and good to look for the best possible condition when purchasing a sHARk and I'd walk away from a rough one before I even shook hands with the owner, BUT, don't go overly crazy on imperfections!
Electrics are important, solid mechanicals are important. Seats/headliner and console are important, solid clean body and -to some- paint condition is important.
Front end alignment, door/hood alignment, window/door seals, seats, switches stereo, aging hoses/vac lines, tune-up items, and carpet can be handled one by one at a 'fairly' reasonable cost.
The current condition of your sHARk -to- be is dependant on the MY year, mileage, location, number of PO's, accidents, and above all the long term maintenance provided to the car.
Before the flames start roaring in...
All I'm suggesting is be realistic about what you are spending vs what you are expecting. I could probably have a 'Porsche Dealer Maintenance Stamp'
made for under $20.00. Would you actually, have the dealer check his records? What if the car recently moved across country -a lot of sHARKs do you know- ? Will you check? It's pretty easy to sign off on a 'marginal' local Porsche PPI as well -a hundred or so under the table...-you shred a belt 1200 miles from the purchase or even just down the road, I wouldn't envy the task of extracting a repair from the Dealer. Car dealers are like Politicians, all Honorable people right?
For the most part, the majority of posters either drove or had the sHARk shipped. With the exception of jumping a fuel relay, leaking accumulator, bad coil, bad injector I can't recall any horror stories.
Most of the pain comes as we nudge our 928's toward the near perfection of showroom condition. So either we as a group have been very lucky or Porsche built a hell of a car.
FWIW. Look at the front spoiler, A/C unit and mount, lower 'A' arm/shock mount, oil pan/fins, and front cross-member for off- road rash, curb leaping damage.
Some sHARKs have been known to piddle a puddle of oil when meeting their new owner , "Gee, It never leaked a drop before."
You can make the determination on that purchase based on where the leak is coming from and the distance to your house. If it's the pan gasket and the engine is otherwise tight when(if) you take it home you can do the motor mounts as well.
Keep in mind you are looking at a 13/14 year old car.
My kids have more scars, bumps and dings on them than should be allowed by law and they have slightly fewer miles .
Good luck on your hunt.

 

All well and good to look for the best possible condition when purchasing a sHARk and I'd walk away from a rough one before I even shook hands with the owner, BUT, don't go overly crazy on imperfections!
Electrics are important, solid mechanicals are important. Seats/headliner and console are important, solid clean body and -to some- paint condition is important.
Front end alignment, door/hood alignment, window/door seals, seats, switches stereo, aging hoses/vac lines, tune-up items, and carpet can be handled one by one at a 'fairly' reasonable cost.
The current condition of your sHARk -to- be is dependant on the MY year, mileage, location, number of PO's, accidents, and above all the long term maintenance provided to the car. I could probably have a 'Porsche Dealer Maintenance Stamp' made for under $20.00. Would you actually, have the dealer check his records? What if the car recently moved across country? It's pretty easy to sign off on a 'marginal' local Porsche PPI as well -a hundred or so under the table...I wouldn't envy the task of extracting a repair from the Dealer. Car dealers are like Politicians, all Honorable people right?
With the exception of jumping a fuel relay, leaking accumulator, bad coil, bad injector I can't recall any horror stories.
Most of the pain comes as we nudge our 928's toward the near perfection of showroom condition. So either we as a group have been very lucky or Porsche built a hell of a car.
FWIW. Look at the front spoiler, A/C unit and mount, lower 'A' arm/shock mount, oil pan/fins, and front cross-member for off- road rash, curb leaping damage.
Some sHARKs have been known to piddle a puddle of oil when meeting their new owner , "Gee, It never leaked a drop before."
You can make the determination on that purchase based on where the leak is coming from and the distance to your house. If it's the pan gasket make the call.
Keep in mind you are looking at a 13/14 year old car.

Good luck on your hunt.