Motor mounts and oil pan gasket.
#1
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I today I dove into replacing my motor mounts and oil pan gasket. Took me off and on most of the day but the mounts are on the crossmember and the gasket has been replaced. I went to 928international's website and got some tips. Using the hoist at work and a engine support I made
Quick work. Tomorrow I will install the crossmember back in and do an oil change too. I used anchor mounts due to cost. Wow I can't believe some of what I found when I took the cradle out and removed the pan and mounts. The mounts shrank almost an inch and gasket for the pan was hard as plastic. On a positive note my engine is clean and sludge free on the bottom. Everything looks good from bottom. Not that I would say this is an enjoyable job but not as hard as removing a transmission three times!
Quick work. Tomorrow I will install the crossmember back in and do an oil change too. I used anchor mounts due to cost. Wow I can't believe some of what I found when I took the cradle out and removed the pan and mounts. The mounts shrank almost an inch and gasket for the pan was hard as plastic. On a positive note my engine is clean and sludge free on the bottom. Everything looks good from bottom. Not that I would say this is an enjoyable job but not as hard as removing a transmission three times!
#3
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i hope your anchor mounts are a matched pair! there have been packaging issues in the past where empty fluid versions are put in solid boxes. mine lasted about two years before i pulled them and put in volvo mounts.
#4
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Two questions. First do I really need to put a couple washers under the anchor mounts. Second do I need to trim some of the shafts on either end of the mounts due to length? One artical had the mounts shafts trimmed.
#5
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I need to do this one of these days. I already have my Volvo mounts and gasket actually...I'm just dreading it lol...
#6
Team Owner
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when you fit the Anchor mounts it would be a good idea to add 2 fender washers totaling about 4mm to the TOP side of each mount.
the washers will not fit to the bottom of the mount as the alignment pin is in the way.
NOTE on a FIT CHECK.... when the mount is installed into the cross member you want about one to two threads showing past the nut,
otherwise if the stud is left long then it will contact the rack housing or the hard lines of the rack and damage them
the washers will not fit to the bottom of the mount as the alignment pin is in the way.
NOTE on a FIT CHECK.... when the mount is installed into the cross member you want about one to two threads showing past the nut,
otherwise if the stud is left long then it will contact the rack housing or the hard lines of the rack and damage them
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 11-21-2014 at 09:48 AM.
#7
Nordschleife Master
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Before you install the mounts, remove them both from the cross member and you will find on the bottom side 4 holes. Insert a metal wire into the hole towards the top. If it goes in more than a about 1/4" you need to throw those mounts away as they won't even last a day or two.
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#8
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Doing the same here, but found.. Ball joints shot, original shocks and springs, and a leaky rack with shot boots. So lots of other things to do. The bonus, I did find that long lost bit when I dropped the cross member.
#9
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So the washers are to take up the slack in the attaching stud. Ok I'm going to use a Dremel tool to cut the stud off just above the nut. I think that's a better andwer
#10
Team Owner
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the washers will lift the engine to a position that the factory mounts would have,
the Anchor mounts dont lift the engine as much.
the Volvo mounts lift the engine more than the anchor mounts with the washers and more than the factory mounts.
the Anchor mounts dont lift the engine as much.
the Volvo mounts lift the engine more than the anchor mounts with the washers and more than the factory mounts.
#11
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But by doing that the mounting "tit" will not be in the window. Since my old mounts were already sagged what harm in not using the washers if I cut down the shafts?
#12
Team Owner
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Doh, sorry I mistyped the info, the washers go on the top of the mount ,....feexed it above thanks
#13
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This is a great job for finding bonus items. I found my missing cam cover bolt washer in the crossmember. Now I have a matching set of washers again!
#15
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So Tomorrow I will torque the bolts to correct specs and fill the engine and rack again. looking forward to a vibration free ride. I also replaced a portion of the wiring harness that goes to the oil level sending unit. The wire was hard as a brick. It had a cool covering outside the wire itself to protect it from the heat. Since the electric connector to the sensor is unique, I pulled back the insulation from the wire to 2 inches from the connector and spliced in a new wire. I used a small rubber hose to replace the protective casing on the wire. I am sure this area gets really hot. Oh yeah while the car was in the air I had the left side Wheels sent to Alloy Wheel repair to true them up. They have had a slight bend in them since before I purchased the car. It gives the car an annoying vibration above 100.