Seems its seen a lot of miles & a lot of sun - considering that - it really doesn't look that bad!

So it has the rear air controls relocated there - nice.

Everyone should have more controls there (or on the other side anyway!) - they fall right to hand!

Alan

 

Funny, i kept running across that metallic rose one while i was looking around for one Hilton, the interior looked like a rubbish tip.

Ended up picking up a midnight blue 1986 from north of Sydney instead.

 

I saw that car advertised and was also tempted. Good buy at the price!

 

Update:
Drove over pick up the car. Good news is, it's not as bad as I thought it would be. I managed to get it started and it idled fine for a bit but then it got spluttery and died. It has fresh fuel. After trying it again it would only fire with the throttle to the floor and bellow out black smoke followed by white/grey smoke on cranking again. When it was idling the first time it was super smooth with no rattles.
Will be here with me in a week or so. Probably going to a billion questions. Which reminds me, the little round filter thing above the radiator does what exactly? This thing was sucking like air like crazy.

Cheers
Scott

 

It is the smog pump filter - feeds the cat air injection pump for faster cat warm-up & secondary emissions oxygen enrichment for burn off.

Good that it works - the filter is probably very restricted - order a new one (cheap) but meantime just vac it out

Alan

 

^Should the car die when you plug the hose?

 

Plug what hose? the air-pump feed after the filter? That would be a bad thing to do for the pump - but the engine doesn't care either way... it just feeds the cats or via a diverter dumps to the airbox - which has plenty of air anyway from the intake hoses.

Alan

 

Clearly something wrong in this department then. I just pulled the hose of the bottom of the filter housing and put my hand over and the engine started to die. I'll pull the manifold off when it gets here and do all the vacuum hoses anyway. I'll figure it out....I hope.

 

I'd just remove the belt from the airpump while you troubleshoot the engine. It won't affect the running condition of the engine, just the emissions (and even then only marginally - I've passed an RTA emissions test without any airpump fitted). WHile you're disabling tyhe airpump, also pull off the vacuum hose from the diverter valve and plug it. The only way I could see plugging the airpump inlet could have that effect on the engine is if the bearings are so shot that between then and a bit of vacuum against the pump inlet, it creates enough drag to slow the engine at idle. Which seems unlikely - unless its already running on only 4 cylinders?

Your first step should be cleaning grounds/electric panel, and maybe swap in a known good MAF from your other car for testing purposes.

Then start her up, and after a minute or two to warm up, check the ignition monitoring relay - a clear relay attached just above the ECU's in the passenger footwell, and see if it has a red or green LED lit up in it.

Do you know someone local with a Bosch Hammer, JDS Spanner, or Theo's diagnostic tool? Running through the actuator tests would be a good idea too.

edit: To swap MAF on an S4 the easy way, remove the airbox top/bottom (2x M6 nuts, and maybe a hose clamp on the underside from the airpump diverter into the top of the airbox), then remove the driver's side fuel rail cover (5mm allen key x2), and you can get a 7mm socket on a 1/4" drive with about 12" of extension through to the hose clamp that holds the MAF in place. Takes about 5 mins once you know how to get at it.

 

Just had a MAF rebuilt by Kevin at Injection Labs for the 86 so as soon as it's here I'll swap them over and send the S4 MAF back to Kevin. If you need a MAF done he does a great job. Cost me $360 including freight.

 

SHE LIVES!!! Thanks to Roger for getting my parts here faster than Porsche Cars Adelaide could ever dream of. Replaced some cracked hoses, rebuilt maf, new plugs and oil and done the trans service. Took it around the block yesterday and holy cow the old girl goes like stink. Stood on the gas and she lit up the tyres! Just waiting for some parts from 928Int to put the interior back together then it's off for rego and paint.
It does have a trans problem. All forward gears work fine and as soon as the shifter hits D it drops straight in, no delay. Changes are quick, smooth and precise. Reverse on the other hand is, move shifter to R then get out make a coffee, have a cigarette and chat with the neighbour then come back and reverse is ready. Is the trans screwed?

 

Not sure if this will work , but here goes.



https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6l...xjcExjZG8/view

 

Slow engagement of R is not uncommon, I think. Hard to tell how extreme yours is though from your description. If you can time it we can compare it to my '88 which is also slow.

 

From reading, slow engagement, if the fluid level is good, is a problem with the B3 brake.

Sometimes its just the seal apparently (from forum reading), however given the OP's car has >300k kms on it (>190k miles), it may well be wear on the friction discs.

Some digging turns up part no 68004B as the overhaul kit for 722.3 transmissions including the friction discs.

There are also some good PDF's available detailing the trans..

ATSG manual: http://avtopedia.ru/akpp/722-3%20722-4.pdf
Transtec bulletin: http://www.transtec.com/downloads/te...edes/94642.pdf
JPAT parts list: http://www.jpat.co.uk/59%20Mercedes%....3%20722.4.pdf

Scott - in your shoes, I'd check the fluid (and flush plus new filter), then just live with it until you get a more serious problem.

Nice save so far!

 

I have no knowledge of this transmission, but is there not a replaceable filter in the auto tranny? I have seen a simple filter and fluid change fix many a lazy tranny.

If not, excuse my ignorance, as I only have the far superior expert tranny, not the beginner auto... ( I'm only kidding....just poking at roger a bit, if he reads this!)

Good luck, what a great save!