Motor mount options
10-26-2014, 09:09 PM
#61
Pro
I found that lots of rags worked the best to clean. Once things are disassembled you can get to the grime better. Gasoline makes a great cleaner, especially for grimy parts that are off the car.
10-27-2014, 06:17 AM
#62
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Now to my important question. Has anyone tried to make the engine sit even higher than with new motor mounts? Is that possible and how much?
The reason I am asking is I like to make a deeper oil pan for improved bay to bay bay breathing and more distance between the crank and the oil. The 928 oil pan is way too shallow especially for a stroker engine. The front cross member has to be modified as well the steering rack lowered. Being able to raise the engine even further would help. I have considered every aspects for this modification and ground clearance should be sufficient for a car having a normal or slightly raised ride height. The hood or bonnet is no object as it has to be modified anyway for the new intake system.
Åke
10-27-2014, 06:41 AM
#63
Rennlist Member
Kein Problem, gern geschehen!
Now to answer your question. Since my motor sits on the new Volvo mounts, Ican answer your question: no (with hood in place).
Reason: the new height leaves littel black marks on top of my intake on the passenger side. These are markings form the hood insulation (can be easily removed). But with this indication I would say the motor sits at it's absolute limit.
If you remove the hood, you need to check for sufficient clearance on top of the bell housing and that the oxygen sensor does not touch the heat shield.
Now to answer your question. Since my motor sits on the new Volvo mounts, Ican answer your question: no (with hood in place).
Reason: the new height leaves littel black marks on top of my intake on the passenger side. These are markings form the hood insulation (can be easily removed). But with this indication I would say the motor sits at it's absolute limit.
If you remove the hood, you need to check for sufficient clearance on top of the bell housing and that the oxygen sensor does not touch the heat shield.
10-27-2014, 08:54 PM
#64
Chronic Tool Dropper
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For visting MM project candidates, I usually send them off first with half a dozen spray cans of engine cleaner (Gunk Foamy Engine Brite) to use in advance of bringing the car for the work. One guset brought four cans back, saying he only needed two of them. I recommend using all of them, as he does now. The nuts-and-bolts part is way easier when the slime and crud layers have been removed. If you have ramps (recommended), start by pulling the air cleaner housing so you have good access to the rear over the bellhousing. Cover the MAF. Then go to town with the cleaner. You'll be intimate with the steering rack, crossmember, oil pan area, suspension/lower control arms, etc. Just clean everything you can get to from underneath. Rinse, and repeat until you are willing to put your sandwich anywhere under there. That will get the frist 90% of the crud off. The other 90% will still get on your hands, tools and clothes, plus you'll discover plenty more when you get the lower bash plate off the crossmember, and another 90% when you drop the oil sump. Remember, clean enough to put your sandwhich down... and still be edible when you pick it up again.
Chemical engine cleaners will leave you with a slime layer on the ground that really should not be allowed to go down into any storm drains. I've been tarping the work area and capturing the rinse in buckets lined with trashbags. I let the water evaporate from the buckets, leaving a paste of oil and crud that then goes to the local waste management guys for safe disposal. Costs little or nothing to give them a bucket of muck, vs letting it go down the storm drains. Plus no damage or stains to the driveway.
Chemical engine cleaners will leave you with a slime layer on the ground that really should not be allowed to go down into any storm drains. I've been tarping the work area and capturing the rinse in buckets lined with trashbags. I let the water evaporate from the buckets, leaving a paste of oil and crud that then goes to the local waste management guys for safe disposal. Costs little or nothing to give them a bucket of muck, vs letting it go down the storm drains. Plus no damage or stains to the driveway.
10-27-2014, 09:15 PM
#65
Team Owner
Strosek Ultra if you really are in need of exact measurements of your hood to intake ,
you can see this by,
remove the radiator and the crank pulley and fan if its belt driven,
then with the hood closed and the car on jack stands you can sneak up into the engine bay from under the car.
NOTE a thinner person has an easier time of this,
then with a light you can see how much room you have,
Note also remove the cross bar so it wont block the view
you can see this by,
remove the radiator and the crank pulley and fan if its belt driven,
then with the hood closed and the car on jack stands you can sneak up into the engine bay from under the car.
NOTE a thinner person has an easier time of this,
then with a light you can see how much room you have,
Note also remove the cross bar so it wont block the view
10-28-2014, 06:10 AM
#66
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mostly in my workshop located in Sweden.
Posts: 2,226
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Strosek Ultra if you really are in need of exact measurements of your hood to intake ,
you can see this by,
remove the radiator and the crank pulley and fan if its belt driven,
then with the hood closed and the car on jack stands you can sneak up into the engine bay from under the car.
NOTE a thinner person has an easier time of this,
then with a light you can see how much room you have,
Note also remove the cross bar so it wont block the view
you can see this by,
remove the radiator and the crank pulley and fan if its belt driven,
then with the hood closed and the car on jack stands you can sneak up into the engine bay from under the car.
NOTE a thinner person has an easier time of this,
then with a light you can see how much room you have,
Note also remove the cross bar so it wont block the view
Where is the limitation, bell housing, at the gear stick or elsewhere?
Åke
Last edited by Strosek Ultra; 01-12-2015 at 03:39 PM.
10-28-2014, 10:13 AM
#67
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I like the tarp/bucket idea, although I don't think i can get a very big bucket under there. Maybe one of those cheap kiddy pools, and then just pitch it. I haven't yet found a local place that will steam clean it, and not knowing how to dispose of all the crud, etc has been preventing me from any serious cleaning.
For visting MM project candidates, I usually send them off first with half a dozen spray cans of engine cleaner (Gunk Foamy Engine Brite) to use in advance of bringing the car for the work. One guset brought four cans back, saying he only needed two of them. I recommend using all of them, as he does now. The nuts-and-bolts part is way easier when the slime and crud layers have been removed. If you have ramps (recommended), start by pulling the air cleaner housing so you have good access to the rear over the bellhousing. Cover the MAF. Then go to town with the cleaner. You'll be intimate with the steering rack, crossmember, oil pan area, suspension/lower control arms, etc. Just clean everything you can get to from underneath. Rinse, and repeat until you are willing to put your sandwich anywhere under there. That will get the frist 90% of the crud off. The other 90% will still get on your hands, tools and clothes, plus you'll discover plenty more when you get the lower bash plate off the crossmember, and another 90% when you drop the oil sump. Remember, clean enough to put your sandwhich down... and still be edible when you pick it up again.
Chemical engine cleaners will leave you with a slime layer on the ground that really should not be allowed to go down into any storm drains. I've been tarping the work area and capturing the rinse in buckets lined with trashbags. I let the water evaporate from the buckets, leaving a paste of oil and crud that then goes to the local waste management guys for safe disposal. Costs little or nothing to give them a bucket of muck, vs letting it go down the storm drains. Plus no damage or stains to the driveway.
Chemical engine cleaners will leave you with a slime layer on the ground that really should not be allowed to go down into any storm drains. I've been tarping the work area and capturing the rinse in buckets lined with trashbags. I let the water evaporate from the buckets, leaving a paste of oil and crud that then goes to the local waste management guys for safe disposal. Costs little or nothing to give them a bucket of muck, vs letting it go down the storm drains. Plus no damage or stains to the driveway.
10-28-2014, 05:59 PM
#68
That is exactly the point! Porsche is not doing a lot for their former "flagship" and I don't see any changes on the horizon.
This forum here and also the equivalent in Germany (PFF) is packed with help, support and advice. The 928 owner is a different breed and all of us love our cars and want to keep them on the road. Even if they are 20 plus years old and we want to drive them! We are not discussing which interior carbon package suits our new 911 better. Most of us work on our cars and know them very well.
Our parts suppliers support us way beyond what Porsche dealership provide, THANK YOU FOR THAT!
Everybody can install the part that he wants on his 928, no questions asked. But just because "Porsche" is printed on the package does not mean that this part is the better choice (reagardless of the price).
Why should I replace a faulty hybrid LH-ECU with the same part from the dealership that has been stored in a warehouse for the last 15 years? Installing another ticking bomb in my car that is kown to fail one day? No, thank you!
I'd rather support a Rennlists sponsor that supplies a refurbished unit with an upgraded chip.
Leaky oil pan gasket? What is better silicone or 60's cork technology?
Heater valve from Porsche or the same part from MB? If you don't need the bling of the package go with MB.
Replacement motor for the interior fan or new unit from Porsche for five times the price?
I could continue the list...........
Who comes up with ideas and alternatives like this? Our vendors who not only sell parts but share the same passion for the 928
!
This forum here and also the equivalent in Germany (PFF) is packed with help, support and advice. The 928 owner is a different breed and all of us love our cars and want to keep them on the road. Even if they are 20 plus years old and we want to drive them! We are not discussing which interior carbon package suits our new 911 better. Most of us work on our cars and know them very well.
Our parts suppliers support us way beyond what Porsche dealership provide, THANK YOU FOR THAT!
Everybody can install the part that he wants on his 928, no questions asked. But just because "Porsche" is printed on the package does not mean that this part is the better choice (reagardless of the price).
Why should I replace a faulty hybrid LH-ECU with the same part from the dealership that has been stored in a warehouse for the last 15 years? Installing another ticking bomb in my car that is kown to fail one day? No, thank you!
I'd rather support a Rennlists sponsor that supplies a refurbished unit with an upgraded chip.
Leaky oil pan gasket? What is better silicone or 60's cork technology?
Heater valve from Porsche or the same part from MB? If you don't need the bling of the package go with MB.
Replacement motor for the interior fan or new unit from Porsche for five times the price?
I could continue the list...........
Who comes up with ideas and alternatives like this? Our vendors who not only sell parts but share the same passion for the 928
!
10-28-2014, 06:54 PM
#69
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I like the tarp/bucket idea, although I don't think i can get a very big bucket under there. Maybe one of those cheap kiddy pools, and then just pitch it. I haven't yet found a local place that will steam clean it, and not knowing how to dispose of all the crud, etc has been preventing me from any serious cleaning.
There are some pictures here somewhere of James M's '85 Euro project in the driveway for cleaning. Let me look...
This pic doesn't show the buckets at the bottom where the gravity carried the crud, but gives you an idea of what was involved. Note that the cheap Harbor Freight blue tarps are not leakproof. They are cobered with clear poly, which is. the tarps are strong enough to safely lift the loaded plastic at the downhill end. Since this episode, I've moved to a flatter location, and the technique is refined some with a small electric pump to move water from the low points to buckets if necessary. None of this is particularly elegant, and it's still a messy job doing all the cleaning. If you can find a local place that will steam clean or even just hot-water pressure wash the underside, I'd be all over that before doing it at home in the garage or driveway.
10-28-2014, 08:17 PM
#70
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I've been looking for a place around here, but no luck so far. That being said, I do have a slope on my driveway...
10-28-2014, 09:51 PM
#73
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ugh. It is in fact asphalt. Dammit...
10-29-2014, 05:35 AM
#74
Rennlist Member
1. Volvo Motor Mounts
2. Low cost idle stabilizer alternative
3. Flappy bearings (S4 and later intake)
4. HVAC footwell and com flap diaphragm alterantives (silicone)
5. Silicone oil pan gasket
6. DELRIN steering rack bushings
7. All aluminium radiator
8. Ford four hole fuel injectors in different flow rates
9. Extra flexplate clamp(s) to prevent movement
10. Aftermarket throw out bearing alternatives for older models
11. LED conversion instructions for all interior lights.
12. VW inside dome light alternative
13. Interior fan motor
14. Custom fuel line alternatives
15. Aftermarket wiring harness
16. MAF refrubish
17. LH-ECU hybrid chip replacement
18. PorKensioner in different versions
19. Silicone cam cover gaskets (16V)
20. Aftermarket ignition harness
21. ......
10-29-2014, 12:02 PM
#75
Developer
That list is a good start - but wofully incomplete.
Aluminum steering rack mounts, aluminum motor mounts, more heater valves, replacement camshaft bolts, camshaft drive sprockets - I could go on and on. Tour our website sometime.
I agree with Roger - it seems that the 928 no longer makes financial sense to Porsche, and we have been watching the increase in numbers of parts we need now listed as NLA. ...and that's just replacement parts.
Then there is the topic of continued development/improvement of current 928 parts - not going to happen on a car that was discontinued.
This is where the commitment and passion to those supporting the 928 has had the biggest impact, IMO.
Aluminum steering rack mounts, aluminum motor mounts, more heater valves, replacement camshaft bolts, camshaft drive sprockets - I could go on and on. Tour our website sometime.
I agree with Roger - it seems that the 928 no longer makes financial sense to Porsche, and we have been watching the increase in numbers of parts we need now listed as NLA. ...and that's just replacement parts.
Then there is the topic of continued development/improvement of current 928 parts - not going to happen on a car that was discontinued.
This is where the commitment and passion to those supporting the 928 has had the biggest impact, IMO.