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Any advice as I prepare to replace the distributor caps and rotors?

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Old 10-03-2014, 12:03 AM
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bureau13
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Default Any advice as I prepare to replace the distributor caps and rotors?

I got box of goodies from Roger today...timing belt tool and distributor caps and rotors. It seems reasonable to check belt tension and condition and replace the caps/rotors at the same time, since the passenger side needs to come out anyway. The Kempf tool how-to is pretty detailed about what to take off, move, etc...but my PDF version of the WSM seems to say very little about the 32V distributor replacement. Anything I need to know, or should make sure I do? Any gaskets or grease or dielectric grease (I see this on the Pelican list of related items) or whatever? I don't want to tear into it and realize once it's all apart that I need something else. Also, the WSM does say to "Adjust ignition timing" once it's all done. Umm...OK full disclosure, all the cars I've actually owned and self-maintained have been distributorless EFI cars. So this old-school stuff is new to me. Is a timing light and tach, etc. really just to replace these parts, if I align them up the same as when the old ones came off?

Apologies in advance if this stuff seems like stupid questions. I'm here to learn!
Old 10-03-2014, 01:36 AM
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Rob Edwards
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EDIT: Whoops, my pics are for 87-95 but the distributor caps and rotors are identical on 85 thru 95, so the arrangement of the plug wires at the caps is the same for your 86.5.


No stupid questions. No gaskets or grease required. No need to do anything about ignition timing after the R&R. The hardest part of the job is getting the rubber boots to let go of the old caps, if they've been heat cycled a couple hundred times- Spark plug pliers are a real help here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Point-Y...item51c432b96c


You don't _need_ anything else in order to swap the caps and rotors. If you want to be compulsive you can rotate the engine by hand so the red pointer on the water pump points to 0|T on the the harmonic balancer. That way, the rotors will both be pointing to 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock, so you don't have to think about how the rotors line up. That said, most likely your cam gears have cast-in marks that show which direction the rotors point:



Make sure to number each plug wire before removing them, so they end up back where they belong. Here is the layout:

Old 10-03-2014, 01:43 AM
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bureau13
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Awesome info Rob, thank you for taking the time to put up those pics.
Old 10-03-2014, 02:47 AM
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bogdann
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"That said, most likely your cam gears have cast-in marks that show which direction the rotors point:"

Learn something on this site every time you open it up. Thanks Rob
Old 10-03-2014, 03:03 AM
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Rob Edwards
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The other party trick is that (at least on S4+s) the plug wire numbers are cast into the cam belt covers above where the distributor caps mount.




And of course there's the firing order sticker on the radiator. Whole lotta plug wire idiotproofing going on, if you know what to look for.

Old 10-03-2014, 03:28 AM
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StratfordShark
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A couple of the bolts holding down distributor caps are awkward to reach - 8mm gear wrench with flex head very handy tool here (set if such gear wrenches a fine investment for future work).

The rotors are held down by Allen bolts. Position Allen key firmly in heads before trying to break torque so less risk of rounding the head. Just put rotors back the way they came off and no timing concerns whatsoever!
Old 10-05-2014, 02:49 AM
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mark kibort
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that's a great picture and handy if you don't know about the cam belt cover markings!



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