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Tips for undoing tie rods at rack?

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Old 09-09-2014 | 12:54 PM
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StratfordShark's Avatar
StratfordShark
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Default Tips for undoing tie rods at rack?

I'm changing the tie rods and trying to first undo at the rack end.

The stop slides in easily so I can get a big 32mm wrench on the tie rod, and a 22mm on the flats on the rack. I know the wsm torque is very high, and I don't know when this was last undone. I can't shift the rod just squeezing on the wrenches - any smart tools for getting it undone? In past I've used spring compressor on tough nuts and pair of wrenches, but I can't get the wrenches into position where I can attach compressor jaws.

Thanks
Old 09-09-2014 | 02:11 PM
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Use longer pipes on top of the wrenches. Have one with pipe on the wrench all the way up the floor use the other one to turn.
HTH.
Old 09-09-2014 | 02:26 PM
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After you take a measurement of the adjusted number of threads on the sleeve, (gives you reference when doing initial toe setting when you install new tie rods) use a 15mm to unscrew the outer rod end from the inner rod sleeve. This will provide much more room to work and then you can slide the boot off completely from the open end. (handy method of replacing rack boots without screwing up your alignment) You can also turn the steering wheel to move the rack to a better location for access from below. I used a pipe wrench on the inner ball joint end of tie rod and a BFH to break it loose. be careful to hold the rack side so you dont damage the rack or twist it and damge bushings.
Old 09-09-2014 | 02:27 PM
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Yes, sounds like you are doing it correctly, you just need more leverage.

edit: I would not use a "pipe" wrench on the rack, have see it suggested here before but there is reason they placed notches for a 32mm wrench, pipe wrenches are for pipes.
Old 09-09-2014 | 03:40 PM
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To undo the inner rod with the rack still on the car you will need lots of leverage. (much easier off the car).

I would lock one wrench against the underbody and use a jack on the other wrench to provide the necessary torque.

Myles
Old 09-09-2014 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by davek9
Yes, sounds like you are doing it correctly, you just need more leverage.

edit: I would not use a "pipe" wrench on the rack, have see it suggested here before but there is reason they placed notches for a 32mm wrench, pipe wrenches are for pipes.
Yep pipe wrenches are for pipes...and used up inner tie rods. Using the pipe wrench lets you place the wrench further out on tie rod and eliminates the need to get an open end wrench perfectly strait into the very narrow slots in the tie rod end. Also eliminates the chance of damaging the ends of the steering rack since it is not up against the rack in any way.
Just my experience.....I could be wrong.
Old 09-09-2014 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Hold On
Yep pipe wrenches are for pipes...and used up inner tie rods. Using the pipe wrench lets you place the wrench further out on tie rod and eliminates the need to get an open end wrench perfectly strait into the very narrow slots in the tie rod end. Also eliminates the chance of damaging the ends of the steering rack since it is not up against the rack in any way.
Just my experience.....I could be wrong.
I get what your saying, however that is not a "narrow" slot and a regular wrench fits just fine.
Turn the rack so that the end extends out and then push the rack stop (its a big washer) inward.
Old 09-10-2014 | 10:46 AM
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I used a crowsfoot 32mm and a 22mm bike wrench with a long handle. If it's on a lift, it's easier of course.



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