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I'll try to help here, but it's a bit confusing as you specify the "orange" line. As if you have more than one.
That device is pulled shut from vacuum in the cabin (actually sprung open for heat vacuumed closed for cool). So it's the firewall from your cabin controls.
Mine is apart right now and I have verified...and either a very faded orange line or it's very dirty and yellowed white one!
Through the firewall, connects to the HVAC solenoid rack in the center console forward of the radio (towards front of car). Easiest access is by pulling the side panels from the console. The solenoids live on a metal support that has screws on either end, plus one in the middle that's a bit of a chore to access. Once loose, the assembly can be extracted out the left side (on LHD cars anyway) and tested/serviced while out. Good time to test the intergtity of the other actuators from the solenoid-end of the other vacuum lines.
The heater valve often gets connected to the vacuum manifold (7-way splitter) when leaks in other actuators prevent building sufficient vacuum to hold the heater valve closed. Remember that the heater valve is vacuum-to-close.
here's a picture of where it enters the firewall on a LH drive car...(and this is also an 83 / 84 model with AUTOMATIC HVAC)
Much appreciated and thanks for the pics as well, looks like mine is the same.
Originally Posted by dr bob
Through the firewall, connects to the HVAC solenoid rack in the center console forward of the radio (towards front of car). Easiest access is by pulling the side panels from the console. The solenoids live on a metal support that has screws on either end, plus one in the middle that's a bit of a chore to access. Once loose, the assembly can be extracted out the left side (on LHD cars anyway) and tested/serviced while out. Good time to test the intergtity of the other actuators from the solenoid-end of the other vacuum lines.
The heater valve often gets connected to the vacuum manifold (7-way splitter) when leaks in other actuators prevent building sufficient vacuum to hold the heater valve closed. Remember that the heater valve is vacuum-to-close.
Thanks drbob.., Iv,e just done an intake RnR.., and it was while putting things back I discovered i had accidentally detached the hard white/opaque line from the vacuum reservoir which resulted in a non operative comb flap, once connected all was working again. Also I took the opportunity to replace the heater valve. Most vac lines are now silicone. What threw me re the question I posted was, I was reading John Pirtle,s write up re the vac lines and in particular the heater valve ?
Iv,e included the piece by John, if you could kindly confirm for me, check out Number 7 on his list, it mentions the heater valve has a White vac line, the only White vac line I have goes to the vacuum reservoir, and I immediately thought mine were on the wrong outlets.
Question 7 was ( Pull the vacuum line (white) from the heater valve and test the valve directly for vacuum. You should see the arm move
I'm not close enough to the car to confirm, but the WSM lists the colors:
Footwell flap - Yellow
Defroster Flap - Green
Center Nozzle stage 1 - Orange
Center Nozzle Stage 2 - Brown
Mixing Flap and Heating Valve - Red
Fresh Air Bypass Flap - Blue
These colors are listed for the solenoids in the rack, on page 87-4 of the WSM's