Rear wheel bearing orientation
08-16-2014, 10:18 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rear wheel bearing orientation
I have searched through plenty of rear wheel bearing replacement threads, but can't find any information if the bearings have an outside and inside. Enclose pictures of the SKF bearings (both sides) and they look identical on both sides. So the question is, does it matter which side of the bearing goes in "first" into the rear hub?
Cheers!
Carl
Cheers!
Carl
08-16-2014, 10:41 PM
#2
Archive Gatekeeper
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Doesn't matter, they're ambidextrous.
Go outside right now and put your (freshly replated) emergency brake spring mounting plates over the hub carriers, before you forget and install the hubs in the rear bearings. Ask me why I'm bringing it up.
Go outside right now and put your (freshly replated) emergency brake spring mounting plates over the hub carriers, before you forget and install the hubs in the rear bearings. Ask me why I'm bringing it up.
08-16-2014, 10:49 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Did we have to destroy a new bearing after remembering we forgot something?
I still have to get that stubborn old half race off the hub...looks like the Dremel route is the only option left.
Cheers!
Carl
08-17-2014, 02:31 AM
#4
Pro
Yes Rob. 'Why' are you bringing it up?
I think the real nasty in this job is getting the handbrake cable connected.
.
08-17-2014, 12:07 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Disregard the above, because the left side always goes in first.
I'm just kidding of course, but my point is, even if someone were to tell you which side goes in first, how would you be able to tell which side that is since they are identical?
I'm just kidding of course, but my point is, even if someone were to tell you which side goes in first, how would you be able to tell which side that is since they are identical?
08-17-2014, 12:29 PM
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Rob's referring to a little "$100 and an extra day" mistake I made, in a hurry to get it done on his GT. It was one of those "Oh Ship!" moments as I just started to pull the hub into the new bearing, and knew that there was no available instant recovery path.
For those playing along at home, it's way easier to assemble the backing plate and put all the parking brake pieces in without having that annoying drive hub in the way. Remember that, and the backing will always go in before the hub.
Carl--
I put the hub in the bench vise, and use a sacrificial chisel to make three dents radial on the race. Heat it up fast with a MAPP gas torch so the ring expands a little off the hub, then drive it off with that same sacrificial chisel and small (3-5 pound) sledge. The dents distort the ring slightly, making it easier to get it off once it's hot. It still takes a bit of hammer work. Alternatively you can sacrifice some Dremel wheels or a metal cutoff wheel in the angle grinder. But you still get to use the heat and chisel to drive the remainder off unless the chisel will split the sectioned ring cold.
For those playing along at home, it's way easier to assemble the backing plate and put all the parking brake pieces in without having that annoying drive hub in the way. Remember that, and the backing will always go in before the hub.
Carl--
I put the hub in the bench vise, and use a sacrificial chisel to make three dents radial on the race. Heat it up fast with a MAPP gas torch so the ring expands a little off the hub, then drive it off with that same sacrificial chisel and small (3-5 pound) sledge. The dents distort the ring slightly, making it easier to get it off once it's hot. It still takes a bit of hammer work. Alternatively you can sacrifice some Dremel wheels or a metal cutoff wheel in the angle grinder. But you still get to use the heat and chisel to drive the remainder off unless the chisel will split the sectioned ring cold.
08-17-2014, 12:46 PM
#7
Archive Gatekeeper
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It was all part of my ploy to get to test-drive Bob's '89 for a night.
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08-17-2014, 01:01 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Because the bearings I took out were not identical on both sides Jerry, and I'd much rather ask BEFORE I do something that I have never done before. As I am not a bearing expert I could not see if there was any minute differences in the shell design, something that our experts on the list would be aware of.
08-17-2014, 01:10 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rob's referring to a little "$100 and an extra day" mistake I made, in a hurry to get it done on his GT. It was one of those "Oh Ship!" moments as I just started to pull the hub into the new bearing, and knew that there was no available instant recovery path.
For those playing along at home, it's way easier to assemble the backing plate and put all the parking brake pieces in without having that annoying drive hub in the way. Remember that, and the backing will always go in before the hub.
Carl--
I put the hub in the bench vise, and use a sacrificial chisel to make three dents radial on the race. Heat it up fast with a MAPP gas torch so the ring expands a little off the hub, then drive it off with that same sacrificial chisel and small (3-5 pound) sledge. The dents distort the ring slightly, making it easier to get it off once it's hot. It still takes a bit of hammer work. Alternatively you can sacrifice some Dremel wheels or a metal cutoff wheel in the angle grinder. But you still get to use the heat and chisel to drive the remainder off unless the chisel will split the sectioned ring cold.
For those playing along at home, it's way easier to assemble the backing plate and put all the parking brake pieces in without having that annoying drive hub in the way. Remember that, and the backing will always go in before the hub.
Carl--
I put the hub in the bench vise, and use a sacrificial chisel to make three dents radial on the race. Heat it up fast with a MAPP gas torch so the ring expands a little off the hub, then drive it off with that same sacrificial chisel and small (3-5 pound) sledge. The dents distort the ring slightly, making it easier to get it off once it's hot. It still takes a bit of hammer work. Alternatively you can sacrifice some Dremel wheels or a metal cutoff wheel in the angle grinder. But you still get to use the heat and chisel to drive the remainder off unless the chisel will split the sectioned ring cold.
Thank you for the tip, I will try the Dremel approach first, I can always go more violent if that doesn't do it
Cheers!
Carl
08-18-2014, 05:32 AM
#10
Pro
