S3 Porken Chip Install
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
S3 Porken Chip Install
Hey you guys, I'm in the middle of my chip install and had a question:
I'm working off Stan's walkthrough thread from 2010.
Got the EZF cracked open right now.
The stock chip pops out easily from the black housing on the board, but housing is pretty firm to the board. To the point where I don't want to pry it without some feedback from the forum.
It is a given that I don't work on electronics: Ken's chip comes seated in (what looks like) same base housing with pins for the board.
Can I switch chips?
Attachment 861853
Attachment 861854
I'm working off Stan's walkthrough thread from 2010.
Got the EZF cracked open right now.
The stock chip pops out easily from the black housing on the board, but housing is pretty firm to the board. To the point where I don't want to pry it without some feedback from the forum.
It is a given that I don't work on electronics: Ken's chip comes seated in (what looks like) same base housing with pins for the board.
Can I switch chips?
Attachment 861853
Attachment 861854
Last edited by Crumpler; 12-12-2014 at 09:55 AM.
#2
Race Car
Yes, the lower plastic rectangle is a 'carrier' for the eprom. It has the suitably stout pins. Your mission is to carefully, working a little end to end in a rocking fashion, *carefully* pry the upper EPROM chip from the carrier. The EPROM will have much less stout pins or tines. When replacing, use utmost care to make sure those pins are lined up with the recieving holes in the carrier before you press. They can bend easily if misaligned, and then there's problems.
You didn't happen to take a g-tech or GPS or other baseline acceleration run for comparison before/after, did you?
You didn't happen to take a g-tech or GPS or other baseline acceleration run for comparison before/after, did you?
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Yes, the lower plastic rectangle is a 'carrier' for the eprom. It has the suitably stout pins. Your mission is to carefully, working a little end to end in a rocking fashion, *carefully* pry the upper EPROM chip from the carrier. The EPROM will have much less stout pins or tines. When replacing, use utmost care to make sure those pins are lined up with the recieving holes in the carrier before you press. They can bend easily if misaligned, and then there's problems.
You didn't happen to take a g-tech or GPS or other baseline acceleration run for comparison before/after, did you?
You didn't happen to take a g-tech or GPS or other baseline acceleration run for comparison before/after, did you?
No, I didn't baseline. Wish I would have.
I'll take it easy...
gonna be a tough job for a crumpler...
#4
Rennlist Member
I just installed the whole assembly that came from Porken. I assumed this is needed or he would not have sent the carrier with the chip installed. I figured the pins would not line up if you used the chip by itself.
The housing/carrier attached to board is soldered. Do not pry on it.
You should email Porken directly if there are still questions. He is very good at responding.
The housing/carrier attached to board is soldered. Do not pry on it.
You should email Porken directly if there are still questions. He is very good at responding.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Just got back in from garage.
Hey Mike, thanks for the input.
I did put Ken's chips in the stock carriers, and got a no start.
With stock chips back in, starts fine. So your theory holds up.
I will try and find Ken.
Yea, the carrier on the LH definitely looks soldered. Can't tell on the EZF.
Hey Mike, thanks for the input.
I did put Ken's chips in the stock carriers, and got a no start.
With stock chips back in, starts fine. So your theory holds up.
I will try and find Ken.
Yea, the carrier on the LH definitely looks soldered. Can't tell on the EZF.
#6
Race Car
Hey- if I committed a misdirect there, I apologize. PM or email me.
After several of these R&Rs to keep up with the early revisions I had multiple carriers stacking up. At Ken's request I removed the carriers that were stacking and sent them back to him. I don't recall leaving one on there, and I def did swap the eprom on one of them, but the above logic does make sense.
After several of these R&Rs to keep up with the early revisions I had multiple carriers stacking up. At Ken's request I removed the carriers that were stacking and sent them back to him. I don't recall leaving one on there, and I def did swap the eprom on one of them, but the above logic does make sense.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hey- if I committed a misdirect there, I apologize. PM or email me.
After several of these R&Rs to keep up with the early revisions I had multiple carriers stacking up. At Ken's request I removed the carriers that were stacking and sent them back to him. I don't recall leaving one on there, and I def did swap the eprom on one of them, but the above logic does make sense.
After several of these R&Rs to keep up with the early revisions I had multiple carriers stacking up. At Ken's request I removed the carriers that were stacking and sent them back to him. I don't recall leaving one on there, and I def did swap the eprom on one of them, but the above logic does make sense.
My only concern is that I ditched my ground strap and ended up touching all splines during the install-deinstall.
Are the chips pretty durable as long as splines intact?
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#8
Race Car
I had myself all flaked out thinking that after you read my post you might've tried to pry the carrier out of the board thus damaging it... thanks for being smahtah than that!
I'm sure static can scrub the chips, but suspect it is more the exception than the norm. Or it least I would were it not for your no-start issue. Also noteable that, if you happen to reverse the EZK and LH chips on the install one or both are NFG as soon as you hit the key, I've seen a few posts on that.
Another data point 'ask' if you don't mind- is version 4.0 (1) still the one going out?
(The (1) is a little notation off to the side)
Thanks
I'm sure static can scrub the chips, but suspect it is more the exception than the norm. Or it least I would were it not for your no-start issue. Also noteable that, if you happen to reverse the EZK and LH chips on the install one or both are NFG as soon as you hit the key, I've seen a few posts on that.
Another data point 'ask' if you don't mind- is version 4.0 (1) still the one going out?
(The (1) is a little notation off to the side)
Thanks
#9
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yep, reversing = bad.
I purposely used non-CMOS EZ and LH chips for less chance of static damage, but it could be possible to kill one.
You can use the stock EZ chip with the S300s LH chip if you need to for a while.
Sometimes the chip won't work if it's in the holder (although I burned and verified them before shipping in the holder). I have stopped shipping the chips in a holder now that there have been no changes for a long while and I use a different box which fits both S3 and S4 EPROMs.
I purposely used non-CMOS EZ and LH chips for less chance of static damage, but it could be possible to kill one.
You can use the stock EZ chip with the S300s LH chip if you need to for a while.
Sometimes the chip won't work if it's in the holder (although I burned and verified them before shipping in the holder). I have stopped shipping the chips in a holder now that there have been no changes for a long while and I use a different box which fits both S3 and S4 EPROMs.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hey thanks for the info...
Attachment 861987
This is the chipset from Roger.
Clearly marked and I can say that they were not reversed.
Notation of S4fpr and I'm in a S3. Significant?
Ken thanks for chiming in, can you confirm that using a stock carrier instead of yours is bad?
Thanks.
Attachment 861987
This is the chipset from Roger.
Clearly marked and I can say that they were not reversed.
Notation of S4fpr and I'm in a S3. Significant?
Ken thanks for chiming in, can you confirm that using a stock carrier instead of yours is bad?
Thanks.
Last edited by Crumpler; 12-12-2014 at 09:55 AM.
#11
Race Car
Yup, significant.
I don't know that it would produce no-start, but Ken is probably still following along.
The specs for proper install of the S3 chips is on his site, liftbars.com
Swapping out stock FPR for an S4 FPR is a mandatory change.
THanks for the pics, looks like I'm one version behind.
I don't know that it would produce no-start, but Ken is probably still following along.
The specs for proper install of the S3 chips is on his site, liftbars.com
Swapping out stock FPR for an S4 FPR is a mandatory change.
THanks for the pics, looks like I'm one version behind.
#12
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The included carrier/holder plugs into the holder on the board. IE doubles up.
You can remove the S300s chip from the holder and plug it directly into the board holder, instead, if you want.
Carefully pry them apart a little on one end then the other.
S4FPR - you did install a '87 S4 (higher) fuel pressure regulator to go along with the chips, correct?
You can remove the S300s chip from the holder and plug it directly into the board holder, instead, if you want.
Carefully pry them apart a little on one end then the other.
S4FPR - you did install a '87 S4 (higher) fuel pressure regulator to go along with the chips, correct?
#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks Ken.
Appreciate the help.
Yea, I put the '87 FPR in the other day.
I went back and did the double up and it fired up without issue.
Excited to take her out on the road.
Cheers.
Appreciate the help.
Yea, I put the '87 FPR in the other day.
I went back and did the double up and it fired up without issue.
Excited to take her out on the road.
Cheers.
#14
Race Car
Results/impressions?
Also, Ken, not seeing provisions for getting the chip updates on your site anymore?
Also, Ken, not seeing provisions for getting the chip updates on your site anymore?
Last edited by SMTCapeCod; 08-17-2014 at 01:46 PM.
#15
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Just took it out and results were not encouraging.
Starts up consistently.
Will rev in garage to 3000 and 4000 rpm without issue.
On the road however, anything over 1500 rpm will produce random jerking surges.
When I idle down from that the engine cuts out.
I'd like to get some feedback, before I pull the chips again.
Thanks.
Starts up consistently.
Will rev in garage to 3000 and 4000 rpm without issue.
On the road however, anything over 1500 rpm will produce random jerking surges.
When I idle down from that the engine cuts out.
I'd like to get some feedback, before I pull the chips again.
Thanks.