Gearbox and torque converter oil + filter change
#1
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Gearbox and torque converter oil + filter change
Is this something that an amateur can do with basic tools?
If so, does anyone have a noddy guide handy that I can borrow?
Thanks in advance.
If so, does anyone have a noddy guide handy that I can borrow?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Rennlist Member
Yes!
Relatively easy to do if you can get the car up to give clearance underneath.
Getting the torque on the pan bolts is critical so a torque wrench is essential unless you have calibrated fingers.
A fitting to enable filling of the system via the hose connection is also useful as saves putting it all in via the reserviour.
Myles
Relatively easy to do if you can get the car up to give clearance underneath.
Getting the torque on the pan bolts is critical so a torque wrench is essential unless you have calibrated fingers.
A fitting to enable filling of the system via the hose connection is also useful as saves putting it all in via the reserviour.
Myles
#3
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Thanks,looks like this is my next project.
Found this guide over at Porsche 928 Forums http://porsche928forums.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=287 if anyone else is interested,
(if x posts aren't allowed I'll delete it)
Found this guide over at Porsche 928 Forums http://porsche928forums.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=287 if anyone else is interested,
(if x posts aren't allowed I'll delete it)
#4
I am obviously not an expert 928 mechanic. I did change the fluid on my 928 and installed a shift kit in an attempt to fix my transmission. I do believe it is pretty easy to just change the fluid and filter.
You will need to rotate the engine using a 27mm socket until the torque tube drain plug is in the window underneath the vehicle (evenly jacked in the air / rotate clockwise). Put a drip pan underneath it, remove the drain plug. Put a pan underneath the transmission pan. Remove the drain plug. Then remove the pan. Depending on the fluid change intervals you probably will have some sludge on the bottom of the pan. You can spray it off with break cleaner and take a rag soaked in new transmission fluid (my method probably not necessary) to wipe the pan clean of possible residue. slowly unscrew the filter and replace it with a new one. you have to be careful putting on the new gasket on the pan making sure it does not pinch. put back on the pan (proper bolt torques).
I believe the porsche work shop manuals and different Mercedes manuals that use the 722.3 transmission tell you to flush it with petroleum distillates. I would recommend use the k1/k2 spring kits.
Here is the thing I don't know what year your car is or the exact model. Sometimes you can do damage replacing the fluid because it is actually relying on wear debris to make a seal, particularly the B2 bands (for reverse). I have a theory and I could be wrong, but I believe the majority (89 and below) automatic 928 transmission should be rebuild. I strongly feel many of the internal components regardless of miles have just aged over time and are doomed to failure. How do you know the fluid change intervals in your transmission? Could the fluid have possibly started breaking down?
You will need to rotate the engine using a 27mm socket until the torque tube drain plug is in the window underneath the vehicle (evenly jacked in the air / rotate clockwise). Put a drip pan underneath it, remove the drain plug. Put a pan underneath the transmission pan. Remove the drain plug. Then remove the pan. Depending on the fluid change intervals you probably will have some sludge on the bottom of the pan. You can spray it off with break cleaner and take a rag soaked in new transmission fluid (my method probably not necessary) to wipe the pan clean of possible residue. slowly unscrew the filter and replace it with a new one. you have to be careful putting on the new gasket on the pan making sure it does not pinch. put back on the pan (proper bolt torques).
I believe the porsche work shop manuals and different Mercedes manuals that use the 722.3 transmission tell you to flush it with petroleum distillates. I would recommend use the k1/k2 spring kits.
Here is the thing I don't know what year your car is or the exact model. Sometimes you can do damage replacing the fluid because it is actually relying on wear debris to make a seal, particularly the B2 bands (for reverse). I have a theory and I could be wrong, but I believe the majority (89 and below) automatic 928 transmission should be rebuild. I strongly feel many of the internal components regardless of miles have just aged over time and are doomed to failure. How do you know the fluid change intervals in your transmission? Could the fluid have possibly started breaking down?
#6
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Anyone else have thoughts on this?