after a long layup the best way to go?
08-07-2014, 05:18 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Perth WA & Hobart TAS
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after a long layup the best way to go?
Hi
The 928 I have recently purchased was sitting for 6 years in storage and while the mechanic got it started and drove it for a couple of kms he was cautious about running if for too long. I am thinking that I will bring engine up to temp run a high quality flush through it, drop oil refill and run engine for a while then drop it again along with filter....transmission filter and fluid change....brake fluid change....cooling system flush. Is there anything I am missing? and has anyone dealt with a similar lay up period?
What is the best oil available based on current technology for an engine that has done 158K miles? Ditto for trans etc I imagine that after 30 years tech may have changed a bit (Dave928s your thoughts being a local)
I have run Royal Purple before but that was in a BB Chev truck
The car will be running in Tasmania so pretty cold winter by Aussie standards and summers around the 32-35c with a few hotter days but positively frigid by West Aust standards...thanks in advance
The 928 I have recently purchased was sitting for 6 years in storage and while the mechanic got it started and drove it for a couple of kms he was cautious about running if for too long. I am thinking that I will bring engine up to temp run a high quality flush through it, drop oil refill and run engine for a while then drop it again along with filter....transmission filter and fluid change....brake fluid change....cooling system flush. Is there anything I am missing? and has anyone dealt with a similar lay up period?
What is the best oil available based on current technology for an engine that has done 158K miles? Ditto for trans etc I imagine that after 30 years tech may have changed a bit (Dave928s your thoughts being a local)
I have run Royal Purple before but that was in a BB Chev truck
The car will be running in Tasmania so pretty cold winter by Aussie standards and summers around the 32-35c with a few hotter days but positively frigid by West Aust standards...thanks in advance
08-07-2014, 07:21 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Welcome.
I would be cautious about running it for any length of time if I didn't know the condition of the fuel lines or timing belt. I assume from your signature that the car is a 928s which most likely means an interference motor. It also means that the fuel lines may be over 30 years old.
Where was the car stored? High temps would not be beneficial to most rubber components such as those above.
Oil is a contentious issue. If you have a owners manual select the grade from that for the range of temperatures you expect to see and choose a reasonable quality oil with a high Zinc content.
Myles
I would be cautious about running it for any length of time if I didn't know the condition of the fuel lines or timing belt. I assume from your signature that the car is a 928s which most likely means an interference motor. It also means that the fuel lines may be over 30 years old.
Where was the car stored? High temps would not be beneficial to most rubber components such as those above.
Oil is a contentious issue. If you have a owners manual select the grade from that for the range of temperatures you expect to see and choose a reasonable quality oil with a high Zinc content.
Myles
08-07-2014, 07:38 AM
#3
Instructor
One extra item that I'd advise you to do. I have recently brought a 928 that had parked up for long time. Flush the fuel tank, check for any sludge in the tank.
Both fuel pumps seized on me from the crud in the tank. The in tank pump was completely gone when pulled apart the screen had a build up of solid crud. Looking back I now know that if I found a heavy build up of crud in the tank I'd pull the in tank pump to check it. It was really corroded and in bad shape. Nothing that $2,000 can't fix......
Cheers
Richard
Both fuel pumps seized on me from the crud in the tank. The in tank pump was completely gone when pulled apart the screen had a build up of solid crud. Looking back I now know that if I found a heavy build up of crud in the tank I'd pull the in tank pump to check it. It was really corroded and in bad shape. Nothing that $2,000 can't fix......
Cheers
Richard
08-07-2014, 10:30 AM
#4
Nordschleife Master
Your other thread said it was an 85 S2.
There's some debate about it, but it's most likely an "interference" engine. If the timing belt goes, the engine is junk (it's standard practice to change the water pump at the same time). S2 has the 'twin dizzy", so replace the distributor belt at the same time as the timing belt.
All the rubber bits around the top of the motor are probably rotten (vacuum lines, fuel lines from rails to injectors, ect). There are also a few items (MAF, Temp2 sensor and a few others) that are commonly replaced at the same time. It's called a "Top End Refresh."
The fuel lines in the engine compartment aren't rubber (the rubber is an outer protective layer), but they are 30 years old. If one lets go, you will learn the meaning of the word "carbeque" (it's not a good thing).
Cleaning all the ground points is good preventative maintenance (there's a list in the "New Visitor" sticky).
If you search out "Top End Refresh," "Timing Belt/Water Pump" and "Cleaning Ground Points" you'll get a lot of info. Narrow it down with "16 valve" or "Spider Intake" and you'll weed out much of the stuff for the later engines that won't apply to you.
There's some debate about it, but it's most likely an "interference" engine. If the timing belt goes, the engine is junk (it's standard practice to change the water pump at the same time). S2 has the 'twin dizzy", so replace the distributor belt at the same time as the timing belt.
All the rubber bits around the top of the motor are probably rotten (vacuum lines, fuel lines from rails to injectors, ect). There are also a few items (MAF, Temp2 sensor and a few others) that are commonly replaced at the same time. It's called a "Top End Refresh."
The fuel lines in the engine compartment aren't rubber (the rubber is an outer protective layer), but they are 30 years old. If one lets go, you will learn the meaning of the word "carbeque" (it's not a good thing).
Cleaning all the ground points is good preventative maintenance (there's a list in the "New Visitor" sticky).
If you search out "Top End Refresh," "Timing Belt/Water Pump" and "Cleaning Ground Points" you'll get a lot of info. Narrow it down with "16 valve" or "Spider Intake" and you'll weed out much of the stuff for the later engines that won't apply to you.