Speedtoys

..in a repair or pro-active replacement of the harness injector plugs?

Easy on/off clip style, a more flexible boot version..etc..

MainePorsche

Would be very interested to hear input on this. I've always been worried about the acute angle of the wires to the injector, and low I was right in that one of mine had a fracture of the insulation in the same place on EACH wire. Needless to say it caused issue.

The Forgotten On

I'm just going with the factory style amp connectors when I make a new fuel injection harness for my 81 but people seem to like the newer style ones that you squeeze on and off.

I'm just worried about the longevity of the plastic used in them as it has to expand in order to be removed.

This is going to hopefully be a nice technical thread and not one wasted on opinion instead of fact.

Rob Edwards

This is what I would use, if I was 100% sure that the 'bail' release wire is low enough to allow the connector to rotate underneath the fuel rail once connected to the injector:

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-a...tor-1287013003


EDIT: good thread on FI connectors and factory P/Ns for such:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...onnectors.html

MainePorsche

Connectors are pretty generic and one has to get what will fit your injector. I think the big problem is the two little wires which come out of the harness and have to make some very sharp turns - after a while the heat will crack the insulation on BOTH wires (which run together) and will tend to have the defect in the same area causing issue. Ideally, I would like to get a wire which is very flexible and will have a 'lie' that does not have such acute angles - similar to what would be an ideal fluid line - smooth laminar bends - no acute angles. The line would then have to be thermally and environmentally protected.
I was thinking of the old fashion braided lamp lines. I was vacuuming the other day when I got to look at the lines to my old quality Tiffany lamps. I thought they would be ideal for the application. The protection for the line would be a fiberglass lined rubber tubing readily available and can be slipped over the line before the final fitting of the weatherteks into the connector.
Below is a page with the image of these flexible braided lines. Note the two lines per flexible 'cable' of about the same gauge as the lines that go to the injector.
Any thoughts on my thought ?

http://nudcollection.com/

Hilton

The obvious answer to this question is another question.

What did Carl (FLYVMO) use in his epic GT rebuild and re-wiring?

ROG100

I sell two options that work very well.
The kit of connector, boot and clips as shown in Rob's post number #4.
Or the same type of connector with a 12" pigtail already installed and a rubber boot.
Lets you choose to rebuild the harness end or just splice in the connector.

hacker-pschorr

Not necessarily.

The metal clips that go inside the connector have many variations. You should see the shelf space I have dedicated to this, a lot of trial and error.

I prefer the metal clips that have the double spring reinforcement. They are designed to hold tighter and last through more removal cycles before losing tension.

They are also made out of different materials and coatings.

As for the plastic part, I do not like the connectors with boots and now rebuild harnesses with Tyco/Amp connectors with a weatherpac seal instead.


Most important, do not go cheap on a crimp tool.

For weatherpac connectors, this is the cheapest tool to buy:


For everything else, you should really have one of these in the tool box:

MainePorsche

Erik,
You're right, about the connector hardware. In my comment about the connector(s) I intentionally glossed over the subject for I feel (from my experience) the problem lies with the two wires off the harness and not at the connector. I have never had an issue with the connectors, but have spent much time 'licking the wounds' of the two wires to them. I still think some form of flexible, 'laminar lie' wire will mitigate the recurrent issue of insulation cracking due to excessive angulation/heat.
I have the Tool Aid unit and think it is great. I have a similar unit to the Delphi one as well.
I also agree with not using those long boots. I think these limit the play you have to rotate to the optimal position in the attempt to reduce wire stress.

dr bob

For the wire itself, I'd be looking for something with hi-temp insulation like kynar (sp?) so it doesn't get crispy over time. When we did the top end refresh, I was careful to fully secure the wiring to the insulated rail with zip-ties so there's no flexing. The combination of heat and flexing seems to be the cause of most failures.

FLYVMO

For injector connectors I would use the same as Rob listed, although I am not quite at that point yet. For other connections (external) I am using sealed Weatherpack connections for loads less than 20 Amps, and sealed Metripack connections for loads less than 40 Amps. For very high current connections the plan is to use these: http://ceautoelectricsupply.com/vhcconnectors.html

For interior connections between instrument harness and other components I am using these: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/...e=Introduction
Whatever connector used, it is important to not just crimp the wire into the connector but also to solder it for added reliability.

Cheers!
Carl

MainePorsche

Thanks doc.
The kynar insulation that heat resistant ?

hacker-pschorr

I came up with a different plan, and it's dirt cheap.

I've stripped over a dozen BMW, Volvo, Mercedes etc... from the pick and pull of their entire wiring systems. Those with a trunk mounted battery have a ton of wires going the full length of the car, including a 4ga or larger power line.

IMO, nothing beats OEM and trying to buy a plethora of different colors / stripes of quality wire will get very, very expensive.

I've walked out of the pick-n-pull with a wheelbarrel full of cable, connectors etc.. and they only charge me $20.


A few weeks ago I stripped two hybrids, walked away with a triple 4ga harness that ran the length of each car. And it's shielded to boot.
I can only imagine the retail cost of this wire and they charged me another $20.

MainePorsche

If Kynar insulated wire is right for the application, it is available and not very expensive. Even RadioShack carries it at a fair price.

hacker-pschorr

I'm paranoid about where the stuff is coming from. Horror stories about crap China made wire showing up at reputable places.
Same for fuses. I clean out every fuse panel when at the pick-in-pull.

I figure if the wire I yank from a 15 year old BMW with 150k miles is still flexible and like new, it's good quality.