vanster

After cleaning and painting, replacing my E brake shoes
No easy feat for me anyway. I cannot get the calipers back on
Spent most of the day trying everything could think of. Used a C clamp on the piston but the pads don't seem to seat in the notch on the caliber. I can't get enough distance between the new pads and the disk. Is there a trick to this? I tried putting the disk in first, as well as bolting on the caliper first.....argh!


Replaced the brake lines with stainless and new sensors. Easy part

Speedtoys

Can you get a photo of what doesnt seat right?

dr bob

Hold the new pads up against the old ones and verify that they are in fact compatible. Use the old pads and the c-clamp to compress the piston, and then verify that you can drop the pads into the caliper. They need to be able to side in without hammering them. Sometimes a little judicious use of a file on the edges of the backing metal is needed, enough to compensate for the thickness of the new paint in the caliper frame plus paint on the edges of the new backing metal.

Bilal928S4

BUT, don't file the edges of the metal that the pad is bonded to, or they will rattle as you drive. Ask me how I know .............

vanster

It appears to me that the small tab on the outboard caliper interfere's with the pad. It seems to me that it the tab should go into the slot on the new pad. But since it's proud
this seems to be the hang up.
I will take pics

GlenL

The tab goes into the square hole. Put the outside pad on first making sure the tab is completely in the hole. Then slide in the inside pad.

BTW - The rears can be done with the calipers on the car by removing the two pins.

There's an outside chance you have the wrong rear rotors. Lot's of p-cars have the same basic design with slight variations including disc thickness.

vanster

I'm finding that the tab and the slot in the pad are not all that compatible.
A bit of trimming. Appears that QC on the pads is questionable