The fuel strainer is inside the tank and is a different item from the fuel filter. It works like a coarse filter to block large particles from entering the pump. Might be worth checking that, and the fuel pump power and ground connections in the rear of the car, both at the pump and in the spare wheel well grounding point. If your pump is original from 1984, then it might be on the way out...

Does the shutting off happen regardless of fuel level in the tank or only when below a certain level?

 

Check the "little" wires that connect to the battery positive terminal. They include power to the fuel pump relay and the injectors, and more. They need to be clean and tight. Disassemble, clean with a small brush (like a brass detailing 'toothbrush') to remove the dull grey oxides from the bolt, nut, and the terminal eyes. Reassemble, do the same for the connection to the battery positive post. Then coat the whole thing with a thin film of Vaseline.

The main poswer to the CE panel is via the big battery positive cable, so most of the rest of the car will seem normal. But those smaler wires are really critical to keeping the car runnng. Hard to diagnose if you watch lights as the car just dies, since everything seems to be powered OK.

Cleaning these and the other battery and ground strap connections should be on your Annual Electrical Maintenance Schedule. Simple stoooopid stuff that will leave you on the side of a hot deserted highway someplace, with the rev limiter overheated, if your luck is like mine.

 

The shutoff occurs regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank.
Also.. I checked the FP fuse and the ground points under the right rear panel. Nothing significant.

Will check the little wires later today.

I'm thinking it is fuel pump relay related. This weekend I'll put some miles on it and see how it goes.

Thanks for the Tips!!!

 

from post 20

NOTE as your fuse may show good but the power stops where the blade on the wire to holder meet.

What this means is you can test the fuse for power and its a good fuse,
so it has power coming in from the top,
and then it passes the power through the fuse .

what you need to check is the wire thats connected to the bottom of the fuse holder blade on the rear of the CE panel.
you might be amazed to find the output power is missing.

NOTE a simple continuity check is not sufficient as continuity can be there but the ability to pass large volumes of current isnt there.

SO this wire has to be checked while the circuit has a load applied to it.

Bottom line ..........spray deoxit on the front and back of the fuse holders, with the fuses removed.
If their is corrosion it may take a while for it to work into the connection usually 24 hours results will be seen

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=relay+buddy

You can make a rig that supplies 12V and ground to the correct pins, then put a load on it. But tooltopia.com sells this - Relay Buddy.

Kinda pricey at $49.68, but really handy for these aging cars and relays.

It supplies power "several times in each test cycle" then gives a green light if it passes its "consistency" check or a red if not. Product lit also says "it is impossible for the Relay Buddy to test the relay contacts under every different load (Amp draw) scenario that your relay may encounter. A voltage drop check across the closed contacts while in the actual live circuit may also be advisable." So, it can only tell you the basics, it's just not got that much circuitry, but it will spot burned, sluggish, partial flow? But it will ID the obvious defective relay.

Also to note is who made your relay. I guess even a new Bosch could fail, but there are lesser quality products that might last, but frequently don't. I had an experience with an ignition switch that wasn't OEM and it was not worth the postage to get it, much less the time and difficulty to install and then install a Bosch. Relays not such a problem, but YMMV.

 

After taking Stan's advice, it appears to have been the relays. I've clocked about 800 miles since changing them and I haven't had the problem since.

Thanks Guys for the tips.

 

I had this problem with my 81 . the solution was to have my wife in the car when it quit a couple of times , that's how I got the GT.

 

If the dash lights also go out, it's seems like more than just a fuel pump relay. This sounds like bad connections in multiple areas; ECU, fuses for pod, ignition relay, ignition switch or battery cables and grounds.

 

Another vote for MrMerlins advice. I had a similar problem. Finally went thru all the grounds with deoxit as well as CE panel and cleaned the battery posts. It is several thousand miles latter now and the problem seems to have gone away. Would love to know where specifically the problem. All the grounds "looked good".

Prior to going thru the grounds I replaced all the relevant relays, pump, injectors and even bought a backup injector control/computer. No luck the problem kept re occuring until I cleaned all the grounds.

 

This kind of feedback in successfully closing out threads is helpful to everyone.

 

spoke too soon.

It happened again. In the morning, a full tank of gas, headlights on. Drove out of Dunkin donuts and it stalled. I went 1100 miles in between stalls.

I broke down and bought a replacement fuel pump and fuel filter..

What a bummer.. I've driven it locally since but haven't taken it to work yet because if I stalled on the highway I commute on I'd be risking my life.. high speed and a lot of spots with no break down lanes.

One additional thing I did after the previous stall was to swap out the Ignition Control unit in the front with a known good one.

 

One of Stan's replies - DEOXIT!!! The stuff works wherever electricity is flowing including ignition switches. I used it on mine and the starter and other items seem to come on faster after using deoxit.

 

Danny did you ever use the deoxit spray as I suggested?
Simply swapping in new relays wont fix this

 

no I didn't order deoxit. I went to Radio shack and they had a similar product.
Whether or not it was as good I guess I'll never know.

Believe it or not, someone bought the 928 from me this evening.
Thanks everyone for you help.