Setting ride height question
#1
Setting ride height question
The previous owner had the ride height set pretty low 160mm front, 162mm rear.
The belly pan would scrape on small bumps. So I decided to reset the height this weekend. The manual calls out for 190 -20 front. I'm assuming this means you can go down to 170mm? When set at 190mm the front sits really high. This is after a 20 min drive to let it settle. The manual says to set the rear at 173 +10. I set it is now set at 170mm it looks about right in height. The front still looks a little high visually. But maybe it's because it was sitting so low before.
Do these settings sound right? I want to make sure before I spend the money for an alignment.
Art
The belly pan would scrape on small bumps. So I decided to reset the height this weekend. The manual calls out for 190 -20 front. I'm assuming this means you can go down to 170mm? When set at 190mm the front sits really high. This is after a 20 min drive to let it settle. The manual says to set the rear at 173 +10. I set it is now set at 170mm it looks about right in height. The front still looks a little high visually. But maybe it's because it was sitting so low before.
Do these settings sound right? I want to make sure before I spend the money for an alignment.
Art
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
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From: Bend, Oregon
I drive mine at 170 front, and folks think it looks high compared with others that have sagged. My driveway and my butt agree that 170mm or so is right for my car and the roads I drive on.
Some liberal interpretations of the spec suggest that 160 is really the bottom of acceptable range. Remember that the WSM 'range' was the window beyond which the factory would warranty adjustment. For best street handling and ride, your target is ultimately a level lower control arm. for minimum camber and therefore toe change through the normal vertical travel range.
And your 20 mins of driving is nowhere near enough to get things truly settled. I tried at-speed laps of a speed-bump neighborhood, and after that it still ended up taking 75+ miles of driving to get it all settled to final height.
Some liberal interpretations of the spec suggest that 160 is really the bottom of acceptable range. Remember that the WSM 'range' was the window beyond which the factory would warranty adjustment. For best street handling and ride, your target is ultimately a level lower control arm. for minimum camber and therefore toe change through the normal vertical travel range.
And your 20 mins of driving is nowhere near enough to get things truly settled. I tried at-speed laps of a speed-bump neighborhood, and after that it still ended up taking 75+ miles of driving to get it all settled to final height.
#3
Are sagging front springs a problem with these cars? My car sits lower than every other 928 I have seen, I am attributing it to an improper alignment (excessive negative camber) and worn shocks. Should I be looking elsewhere? Its an 83 with 62k miles.....
#4
Thanks Dr Bob,
I don't think I should go any lower than 170 on the front on my private road. I'll let it settle for a week and then recheck before alignment next week.
What do you think about the rear height?
Art
I don't think I should go any lower than 170 on the front on my private road. I'll let it settle for a week and then recheck before alignment next week.
What do you think about the rear height?
Art
#5
Godzilla,
I'm not sure on the early cars. Check your struts and see if they have adjustable collars. PO may have set them low also.
If you dont have a set of manuals see if you can find a set.
If the struts are adjustable and set low without realignment this could account for the negative camber.
Art
I'm not sure on the early cars. Check your struts and see if they have adjustable collars. PO may have set them low also.
If you dont have a set of manuals see if you can find a set.
If the struts are adjustable and set low without realignment this could account for the negative camber.
Art