Hey everyone, I just got my new hood insulation/soundproof pad in the mail. Just wondering about tips on removing the old crumbly one if anyone here has done that before? Thanks

 

First I covered the engine bay with a large tarp that went over the front fenders. Then I used a powerful shop vac. This helped keep out all of the debris. Reno

 

That or I would remove the hood from the shark.

1.Have another person help you, one on one side, one on the other.
2. Put some padding (carpet padding will work) under the corners of the hood near the windshiel when the hood is opened.
3. Remove the hood by the three bolts (I believe the bolt size is a 13mm, you should have a 13mm wrench, socket, about a 1-3" extension and maybe a swivel socket handy) on each side that are attaching the hood to the inside of the fender.

This way you do not have to worry about the mess. Then you will also allow space for a few other maintaince items. Cleaning in the well where the windshield wiper motor is, wiping down the whole underneath of the hood, maybe removing the blower motor and cleaning your a/c evaporator coil...

 

I did just like reno did and cleaned it with a shop-vac. I read somewhere not to be too concerned about removining all of the old insulation. I removed as much as I could and figured that I was just going to cover it up. I also used a 3-M spray. There are two different ones (buy the Super Trim Adhesive #08090). It is designed for this application.

 

I did mine like Reno as well,

Just did it with the hood wide open.
Lay down a plastic drop cloth ($2.00 at Home Depot) over the motor and as far up toward the windshield as you can, then start scraping the hood with a plastic spatula. (like you're scraping a frying pan) The stuff will just come off in hunks and like powder! The junk you cant get off, just wipe down with a rag an some laquer thinner. You dont need to get it perfect. As Reno said, use a shop vac to get any out of the groove around the hood. Wrap up and throw away your drop cloth and you're done with the prep. Mine was cleaned up pretty quick.

The hood insulation I bought was self adhesive with a peel off back, but install is pretty much the same with both. It's a 2 person operation. I think my wife and I installed the new one in about 10 minutes. Just be careful to line it up with the top or front, of the hood to start with otherwise your grid will be off and it will look like $%^t. Work your way down toward the windshield/firewall and take your time. If you use spray adhesive you'll have to let it set. Someone else like Chucker can comment on this better than I can.
Once you get to the bottom (at least for me) the foam is cut a little long, or just seems that way if it gets stretched. You may have to trim a few inches off at the end. I just took a sharp pair of scissors and followed one of the lines on the grid all the way across. Tuck the edge of the foam into the groove in the hood and it will hide any imperfections in your cut.

You're done-now time for Cerveza!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

THOM’S HOOD ESSENTIALS:

HOOD SHOCK REPLACEMENT:

Prop or tape a broom or stick under the high edge of the hood. Put a dense pillow, folded carpet scrap, pad, etc. behind the trailing edge of a hood sharp corner. Tape a pad or rag around the sharp trailing edge corner. Put your replacement shock where you can install it with your free hand. Loosen the 2 clips on one shock only with a little screwdriver. Grip that side of the lid because it will move during the next step. Pull the shock off of its ball joints. Replace one shock at a time. Just push each socket over the corresponding ball. Repeat on the other shock. The thick canister of each shock is higher than the thin rod.

HOOD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION:

See above padding and support data. Disconnect upper hood shock clips. Loosen all 4 upper hinge bolts. Have a friend to remove bolts while holding hood, as you remove the 2 bolts on your side. Lift hood away. Reverse procedure for installation.

HOOD ALIGNMENT:

Never close hood completely unless male and female portions of latch are matched up pretty well. If you get the hood stuck closed, reach up through the front grill. Grab the hood release cable right where it goes into the latch, and pull. If necessary, push on the pointy cone shaped thing that goes through the latch hole to center it while pulling the release cable.

If the hood was previously aligned correctly, and you are removing and re-installing the hood, align using only the 4 hinge bolts at the hood interface: See padding and support instructions above. Before hood removal mark the position of the hinges with a chalk or grease pencil for future reference. Upon hood installation, tighten one side. Get the bolts almost tight on the other side. Push the hood around on that loose side until you think it is close. Tighten those bolts. Gently lower hood, and check alignment at edges and latch. Repeat procedures on both sides through as many iterations as it takes. You can push the hood way down onto the hinge by pushing on the hood with one hand, and tightening bolts with a ratchet socket wrench in the other hand.

Rear height is controlled mainly by hinge adjustment. Front height is controlled by turning the threaded male post of the latch.

If the hood was misaligned before, or you have trouble getting it aligned, remove the upper portion of the latch, align with the hinges, replace the upper latch portion.

You may want to adjust the rubber bumpers for non-interference, and readjust them after alignment is complete.

HOOD LINER PREPARATION & REPLACEMENT:

I did the initial hood prep with the hood on the car. When it gets to the step of prepping with KleanStrip PrepAll, Remove the hood. Overspray and poor adhesion can result from working with the hood overhead. You have practically no overspray when you work with the hood off.

Preparation is everything. Applying adhesive or paint is potentially the simplest part of the job. Cleaning, masking, and final prep are essential. Touch-up paint, clean, and wax the hood ribs before you install the liner. I used 3M Super 77 adhesive on my 928 International supplied OEM? – who knows - hood liner. After 8 months, it looks as fantastic as anything I have ever done with restoration – no sags! In preparation, I vacuumed off the old liner residue. I cleaned the heck out of the hood at the self service car wash with a high pressure wand. I washed and rinsed several times. However, now that I have painted the intake, I don’t get water under the hood.

I removed the hood. I vacuumed all loose residue out of there, and thoroughly cleaned that inside surface with KleanStrip PrepAll. ( It removes wax, etc.) I set the liner in place, and very, very carefully trimmed the liner, flaring the edges to fit under the lip multiple times. When I was totally satisfied with the way the liner sat in the hood, I sprayed the adhesive on the hood and liner in 6” strips. Let the adhesive tack before rubbing surfaces together. I very carefully placed the trailing edge of the liner in its adhesive prepped place. I kept the liner rolled back until I shot the next 6” of adhesive mainly on the hood, and some on the liner. I carefully monitored the orientation. I then rolled the liner forward a few inches. I then repeated the adhesive process until I rolled the liner to the front. I also trimmed some more as the liner rolled forward. Use 3M adhesive remover (or cleaner) or Turpentine for clean-up.

928 International supplied the non-glued pad. Others have obtained a pre-glued pad with a peel off sheet.


HTH,
GOOD LUCK,

 

A couple of additional comments on Thom's excellent write-up.

Removing the hood can be tricky by yourself. The job can be simplified by laying a box similar to the one that your VCR or other component came in on top of the intake.

Mark the hinge positions. With the hood raised and supported, pop off the clips and the support sockets. Be VERY careful to avoid breaking the ball off! Lower the hood onto the box, reach in and take the bolts out. Once unbolted, the hood can be lifted off easily by one person.

Reattaching is the reverse - but before you reattach the hood, remove the latch (the plate holding the pointy part). Once you get the hood perfectly aligned, install the latch loosely enough to move by hand, snugly enough to stay in place until you can tighten it. Slowly lower the hood, reach in and move the bullet into perfect alignment, raise the hood and tighten.

These tips can make it easier to do the job without damaging anything.

 

I have found of removing the 3 bolts from the inside of the fender as to the two bolts to the hood, you do not need to realign the hood.

 

I'm currently conducting this process of replacing the hood pad. What is the best procedure for removing the gooey, rubbery original adhesive that so persistently clings to the inside surface of the hood ? I assume that this gunk must be removed prior to applying the new adhesive.

 

I didn't bother, removing it all down to bare metal. Scrape off everything you can with a putty knife, I then scrubbed it with degreaser and a brillo pad. Alowwed it to dry, I used the factory pad that has the self- adhesive backing and just simply stuck the new one on. The adhesive on the factory pad is very strong and is difficult to remove once it's been applied.